2003 BX22 starts, but won't stay running when the key is released

[katana]

My unit has a 3-wire stop solenoid. It works as designed directly connected to the battery (in the field bench test). I bought another one just in case. It has the same issue and it also tests fine.

I have also tried replacing the key switch with no change. I replaced all the fuses for good measure.

I have 12.8v at the solenoid connector. What else should I be checking/testing?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Fuses and a timer relay are involved in that circuit.
Look for the timer relay under the dash or on the firewall.

 

[whitetiger]

My unit has a 3-wire stop solenoid. It works as designed directly connected to the battery (in the field bench test). I bought another one just in case. It has the same issue and it also tests fine.

I have also tried replacing the key switch with no change. I replaced all the fuses for good measure.

I have 12.8v at the solenoid connector. What else should I be checking/testing?

Here is the test procedure for the solenoid and circuit.

 

[katana]

Fuses and a timer relay are involved in that circuit.
Look for the timer relay under the dash or on the firewall.

I don't see anything that could be a timer relay, and there isn't one listed in the parts catalog. The only relay listed for the BX22 is one for the alternator kit option, which I don't have. The only other thing I see under the dash on the firewall is the voltage regulator.

 

[katana]

Here is the test procedure for the solenoid and circuit.

Thanks. I already tested the old and new solenoids using that procedure and they are fine.
I am not the greatest at reading elec schematics, but I don't see any other components to check besides the solenoid, key switch, and fuse.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Sorry, I was reminded that there was a difference in these models.
Yes no timer relay on the three wire setup.
Have you confirmed the ground connection is good?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If the ground connection is good, then you'll need to follow the RB wire back to the connection at the 20 amp fuse then back to the switch to determine where in that circuit your losing power.
Thinking about it, your ground should be good, because you were getting a pull in on coil (start) your just not getting a Run (hold) circuit signal.

 

[Henro]

Thanks. I already tested the old and new solenoids using that procedure and they are fine.
I am not the greatest at reading elec schematics, but I don't see any other components to check besides the solenoid, key switch, and fuse.

Edit: I somehow missed wolf man’s last two posts. Perhaps I’m just saying the same thing with different words…

I had the exact same problem/symptom with my BX 2200, which is the same tractor as your BX 22.

In my case, it was the run coil in the solenoid that was open. A new solenoid fixed it. In your case it sounds like you’re not getting voltage to the run coil of the solenoid. I don’t recall if there’s a fuse in there but a broken wire would cause the same issue.

What you need to do is verify that the wire going into the run coil on the solenoid is getting voltage when the key is turned to the on position. There is no relay or timer or involved as far as I remember.

Verify that you are getting voltage on the wire that goes into the solenoid to the run coil and report back. You definitely are getting voltage to the start coil in the solenoid because the engine is starting, and only quitting when you release the key.

There is always a chance that your tractor was produced at the end of the production run, and it could share the electrics of the next model in the series. If so, then it would be different than my tractor or the earlier BX 22 tractors. I know this happens sometimes but I’m not sure how frequently or common it is to have different wiring at the end of a production run.

 

[katana]

Thanks, everyone. It is now fixed - but I am not exactly sure why. So, I went back through everything again and this time there was a large voltage drop on the connector (as I stated earlier, I had battery voltage at the connector the first time I checked). I followed the wire back a bit and found a splice that my friend apparently made years ago when I loaned it to him for a summer project. It had been stuffed back in the plastic wire loom so I hadn't noticed it. I thought for sure this was the issue - put a proper connector on and no, it has the same voltage drop.

I then started tracing the wire back through the harness. It gets a little strange past the firewall, but it appeared that the wire went up into the dash. I started blind tracing it with my finger and got to the switches for the lights. One of the switch connectors was loose so I popped it back on. Checked the voltage again and it was good. Fired it up and everything is great. So...not sure, could be I still have an issue somewhere and I just managed to bump the wire at the right place. Hoping it holds out until we are firmly into summer when I plan on going through everything more carefully.

Btw, what are the plastic male/female wire connectors called/where to buy one? I managed to crack the one on the tractor side of the solenoid one of the many times I was disconnecting it.