Another Safety Issue—- Seat Switch Deactivated?

SidecarFlip

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I can find no reference to a seat switch in my M4900 WSM. As I previously mentioned the "Forward-N-Reverse" has to be in "N" and the PTO must be off.

My tractor wiring diagram/schematic does not show a seat switch.
Don't have one, never had one, don't want one.
 

GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
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Two problems with how the BX23S is wired....
1) stand up to adjust pants or move a branch over the ROPs and engine dies...PITA

2) while using BH and you want to drive ahead, press fwd pedal, engine dies, PITA

If I ever get a READABLE wiring diagrem I'll figure out some kind of 'bypass'.
 

dochsml

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L4701HST
Jan 21, 2020
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18
Leonard, TX, USA
Two problems with how the BX23S is wired....
1) stand up to adjust pants or move a branch over the ROPs and engine dies...PITA

2) while using BH and you want to drive ahead, press fwd pedal, engine dies, PITA

If I ever get a READABLE wiring diagrem I'll figure out some kind of 'bypass'.
I don't know how it is on the BX, but 'I believe' (haven't really looked too closely)my L is just a simple old school NO microswitch. Just tap the two wires that run up to it into a toggle or whatever you want.
 

dirtydeed

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B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
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Two problems with how the BX23S is wired....
1) stand up to adjust pants or move a branch over the ROPs and engine dies...PITA

2) while using BH and you want to drive ahead, press fwd pedal, engine dies, PITA

If I ever get a READABLE wiring diagrem I'll figure out some kind of 'bypass'.
Ok. Ok. I wasn't going to do this, but you forced my hand. Here is my no cost, no rewire, one second fix. Should you choose to do this, it's on your own accord and I hope I don't get into trouble. The pics show the before/after fix (I lifted the seat into the BH position so you could see it better).

It's really quite simple!

Edit, this is on the B2650, but I think many models are the same.
 

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GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
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Greensville,Ontario,Canada
dd,thanks but... I have TWO !!! switches to deal with , according to the fuzzy drawing in the PDF WSM.. A 'seat switch' and a 'seat turn switch'. The seat switch powers the OPC timer which will kill the engine if you stand up, the turn switch kills the engine if you try to drive the tractor with seat in BH position...
I'll tackle it next month when it warms up and the 'white stuff' disappears.
 

Tarmy

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If you have a backhoe...the safety switch has to be deactivated or you can’t use it.

Therefore, I have rendered mine obsolete.
 

dirtydeed

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dd,thanks but... I have TWO !!! switches to deal with , according to the fuzzy drawing in the PDF WSM.. A 'seat switch' and a 'seat turn switch'. The seat switch powers the OPC timer which will kill the engine if you stand up, the turn switch kills the engine if you try to drive the tractor with seat in BH position...
I'll tackle it next month when it warms up and the 'white stuff' disappears.
If you have a backhoe...the safety switch has to be deactivated or you can’t use it.

Therefore, I have rendered mine obsolete.
hmmm. not sure what you two are referring to regarding a BH safety switch??? Do you mean the engine dies if you try to move the machine with forward pedal while the seat is in BH position? I have not tried that with the B2650 as I just use the hoe to scoot me up the trench. I have used the forward pedal on the BX23 when I was in BH position, I could actually reach the pedal with my arm from the seat....then I got lazy and used a stick or short tree spade.

I can assure you that the above fix works fine when standing to try to see the tips of the forks.
 

GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
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9,900
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Greensville,Ontario,Canada
re:...Do you mean the engine dies if you try to move the machine with forward pedal while the seat is in BH position?

yes ! I tried using a long stick one day to press the pedal to move tractor fwd. good for 30 seconds +- then engine dies....OPC timer times out...
I 'suppose' it's a 'safety' thing... but having to get off, raise seat arms, reset seat, turn seat, get on ,drive 10', get off, turn seat, get on....is well. tiring and a HUGE waste of time.....
 

dirtydeed

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B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
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re:...Do you mean the engine dies if you try to move the machine with forward pedal while the seat is in BH position?

yes ! I tried using a long stick one day to press the pedal to move tractor fwd. good for 30 seconds +- then engine dies....OPC timer times out...
I 'suppose' it's a 'safety' thing... but having to get off, raise seat arms, reset seat, turn seat, get on ,drive 10', get off, turn seat, get on....is well. tiring and a HUGE waste of time.....
ok. I think I do recall that same issue with my BX23 (but that was an older series). If I remember correctly, it would work if you only slightly (lightly) depressed the pedal. So, there may be room for adjustment (or simply eliminated :D). Try it again, but let off on the pedal, recover, then "stick" it again.
 

GeoHorn

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DAY-EM! The OP who started this thread is an idiot!

I have three different Ops Manuals for this tractor and they are different in several ways from each other... they also have different issue-dates ...
The earlier ones which I downloaded on the I-net address the M4700, M5400, M6800, and M9000.

But the latest one only addresses the M4700 and M5400 and, interestingly, has the most accurate depictions of my actual M4700 tractor. This latest manual only describes TWO safety-start switches: The Fwd/Rev lever and the PTO select-lever. NO SEAT SWITCH and NO GEAR-SHIFT switches are mentioned.

So going out to the tractor sitting in the shop and running all combinations of tests.... it appears that there was not, never was, a seat-safety-switch on this tractor!

Once again, ignorance has blessed me. (And I’m tossing the misleading/downloaded manuals in the trash! Don’t know their sources and curiously, they don’t seem to have any copyright notices. I’m suspicious they are pirated.)
 

GeoHorn

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George... You obtain them from Flea Bay maybe?:D
The goofy ones I downloaded on the Internet and printed them out on my printer because the previous owner told me he had none of the originals that came with the tractor. (He implied that all manuals do is “feed mice”.)

I should have picked up on that ...as after a couple weeks, while troubleshooting items I found mouse-damaged wiring..... which after running it all down and repairing the harness ... it was amazing how the tractor began to act like it should. The tractor showed evidence of long-storage in a barn....the paint was bright and unfaded and the rubber was all very good. But the instrument panel had inoperative items that only became obvious after I found manuals online and read them.
The “cheapest” (free) manuals I downloaded eventurally proved themselves to be without Kubota Logos and copyrights ...and now I realize plenty of errors and omissions.
The genuine Kubota manuals that I PAID MONEY for are the ones that have proven accurate. I now have the official Kubota Operator and WSM manuals and hopefully will now embarrass myself online with less frequency. ;)
 

Magicman

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You can see the unused wiring hanging from the right side of my new seat. There was no place on the tractor to plug it in anyway.
 

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SidecarFlip

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Pair of Dykes will cure that....lol I like your 'ammo can' tool box too. Your 'operators station' is exactly the same as my open station M9 except my SMV triangle is where your ammo can is.
 

SidecarFlip

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The open station M9 I bought last spring hard a hard life as well. I had to completely disassemble all the tin from the chassis and pressure was it 4 times to get all the cow manure off and get it clean. It sat outside or in a shed quite a bit as the dash plastic is faded and the multi-function switch was basically shot (been replaced). I had to completely repaint all the tin and get the dented hood repaired (got that done professionally. Replaced the tie rod ends a couple front axle seals, drained the CACL out of the rear tires (came with cast iron centers so no liquid needed for my use, besides I don't like filled tires, replace both back tubes, changed all the fluids and filters and basically spent the summer 'refurbishing it.

My big worry was what the overhead looked like and if the previous owner changed the fluids in a timely manner. The gearbox had JD HyTrans in it and it was dirty so that went along with the filters. Refilled with my Chevron.

Still concerned about the overhead and that was laid to rest at the dealer when Dennis adjusted it. Took the valve cover off and clean as a whistle. Fears eliminated.

To my advantage, I had the Kubota WSM's for my cab M9 and this one and my cab tractor are only 2 years apart so I was good with that.

I don't believe Kubota changed much between 2002 and 2004. OS is a 2002, cab is a 2004.

Both have the same loader, both have the SSQA though the OS has the Kubota SSQA and the cab has the ATI SSQA. Same loader though, I can actually exchange loaders and buckets if I want to.

Why I bought a used M9 the year I did. Everything interchanges, filters, fluid capacity, loaders, basically everything so I only need to have one size of everything in the shop. Plus they are both hydraulic shuttles. I don't like dry clutches for what I do. Too much starting and stopping loaded.

Learned long ago that when having more than one of something, it's better to have identical twins.

I especially like the hydraulic shuttle when I'm round bailing. I get a full bale alarm, flip the shuttle into neutral, let the computer wrap the bale, eject the bale, close the tailgate, flip the shuttle into forward and go again. Never touch the clutch pedal at all, never drop the rpm, never shut off the PTO. The hydraulic shuttle valve modulates the clutch pack lockup so the starts are always smooth. Great transmission and very simple plus both feet are flat on the floor. A ten year old can do it. The baler is all computer driven so it 'tells' me what to do via a digital touch screen. Just like a video game only I'm baling hay.
 

Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
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I sometimes need to shift in my seat to observe things while mowing, and I don’t wear a seat-belt (in-fact, since I’ve replaced the aftermarket seat with a better one with suspension from RK, I don’t have a seat belt installed.)

I do have a complete ROPS and donl’t have slopes to worry about.

While it is your choice to not use a seat belt, I suggest that you rethink that. The seatbelt would keep you inside the roll over protection system safe zone if you ever did roll over from something besides a slope, like an armadillo hole collapse as you roll over it.

Your soil is probably very stable where you are since I assume you have caliche and plenty of limestone. Where my tractor is used, it is clay/gravely and I have experienced a few incidents with collapsing burrows that make it exciting. Also tree limbs catching the ROPS have created a few interesting wheelies.

I also don’t wear mine 100% of the time but try to always wear it when mowing since that is a long term just stay in the seat task.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Magicman

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M4900 Utility Special 4WD e/w FEL & 1530 John Deere "Traveling Man"
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Pair of Dykes will cure that....lol I like your 'ammo can' tool box too. Your 'operators station' is exactly the same as my open station M9 except my SMV triangle is where your ammo can is.
Yup, that is where my SMV sign bracket was. Now my SMV sign hangs upside down from the ROPS and there are two ammo can tool boxes, plus the original tool box that lost it's lid before I bought the tractor. ;)
 

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quazz

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L3800 and Z411
Jan 6, 2014
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Rockley, NS
I confess to never wearing a seat belt even though I know I should. My seat belt latch has never worked and I never got around to getting the dealer to replace it under warranty. Now it is 6 years later and I have removed the buckle and taken it apart, cleaned and greased everything but it just doesn't stay locked. I kept putting off buying one because the price from Kubota is so high it is offensive but now I am buying an after market one. I have been negligent because even if you don't have a lot of big hills there are plenty of ways you could flip over. I always think that the ROPS is great but a lot less useful without a seatbelt. But better late than never.
 

dochsml

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Equipment
L4701HST
Jan 21, 2020
216
20
18
Leonard, TX, USA
I confess to never wearing a seat belt even though I know I should. My seat belt latch has never worked and I never got around to getting the dealer to replace it under warranty. Now it is 6 years later and I have removed the buckle and taken it apart, cleaned and greased everything but it just doesn't stay locked. I kept putting off buying one because the price from Kubota is so high it is offensive but now I am buying an after market one. I have been negligent because even if you don't have a lot of big hills there are plenty of ways you could flip over. I always think that the ROPS is great but a lot less useful without a seatbelt. But better late than never.
Probably better to fold the ROPS down without a seatbelt.