5740 front engine oil seal

Blackdodgeram · Jan 26, 2020

I have a 2013 Kubota 5740 HST with a cab. The front engineer oil seal is leaking pretty good. I will be doing it myself. I have put seals in IH 414, and 436 engines before. Has anyone done one on this engine? Just looking for some tips and wondering if it's just taking balancer off and pulling the seal or if there is a lot more involved. I know all lot of stuff has to get moved out of the way first. Just looking for info on seal replacement itself. Thanks for any help.

SidecarFlip · Jan 26, 2020

Do it from the bottom, not a difficult job. Remove the lower crank pulley and replace the seal (some models come with s wear sleeve, some don't). Drop the oil level first or you'll get a face full and pop the old seal out with a pick or screwdriver but be careful not to gouge the sealing surface on the cover casting.

Blackdodgeram · Jan 26, 2020

Thank you for the reply. That was what I was hoping for. Just under 900 hours on tractor not sure why it leaked already.

SidecarFlip · Jan 26, 2020

Hardest part is removing the pulley nut. Not a lot of room. When you remove the pulley, try to use a 3 jaw puller and not pry it off, the front case is alloy and don't like to be pried against.

Many things can cause them to weep but constant overfilling of the crankcase is a major one. Stay between the lines on the dipstick, preferrably a bit below the 'full' mark.

I have a leaker myself but the dealer is doing it as it's in the shop for other stuff as well. Last one on my other M, I did myself from the bottom. Started weeping at 1000 hours and I ignored it for a while but it was building crud around the pulley so I washed it off and replaced it. Might want to renew the fan belt while you are there.

I read your comment about the rear wiper being unavailable. I'd think that many models would fit, might want to talk to your parts guy about that.

Blackdodgeram · Jan 26, 2020

I did have it about a quart or so over full. I don't know how I did that I know better. I took some oil out so it's below the full mark. Any chance it will slow down or stop if I caught it in time or no? Any opinions. I called all over on the wiper. Nothing else is the same they all say. Messinks was a ton of help looking for it but no luck.

SidecarFlip · Jan 26, 2020

Usually, when they start leaking there is no stopping it but you can try I guess. It's not an involved job other than laying on your back on the concrete and working over your head.

I hate leaks of any kind myself. Both my M's are getting up in years 2002 and 2004 but I try to keep them tidy underneath.

You might try a local dealer or maybe someone on here will chime in. I find it hard to believe the rear wiper assembly don't fit more than one model.

North Idaho Wolfman · Jan 26, 2020

If your going to do it, do it right, replacing just the seal is a waste of time, replace all the three parts that involves the sealing.

210 crank seal
140 sleeve (this is what the seal rides on and seals to)
150 O-ring (seen this left out and not replaced many a time and they wonder why it's still leaking)

Blackdodgeram · Jan 27, 2020

Thank you for the parts break down. I will put in all three for sure.

schmellba99 · Jan 27, 2020

Dont know how similar this engine is to a D-1105 engine, but i replaced my crankshaft seal on my B2410 a few months back. Replaced the seal and O-ring, the sleeve was in excellent shape and I saw no need to repair after getting it apart.

I pulled the gear cover off my tractor, tapped the old seal out from the back side and pressed the new one in. Not a big deal, hardest part was getting the nut off of the harmonic balancer - I used a socket and wrench up against the frame and bumped the motor to break it loose, worked like a charm (didn't pull the oil cooler off the front, so access was still limited even with the radiator removed).

Be sure to replace the o-ring. It was about $2 and it would royally suck to have to go back and do the work again because you missed that part or didn't want to buy a new one.

SidecarFlip · Jan 27, 2020

No need to remove the front cover unless you need it off for other things not related to the leaking seal.

Blackdodgeram · Jan 27, 2020

So the radiator has to come out for sure?

SidecarFlip · Jan 27, 2020

No...................

Blackdodgeram · Jan 27, 2020

SidecarFlip said:
No...................

What has to come off? Or just get the balancer off and that's it. It looks like lines would be in the way but I haven't dug into it yet. I ordered all 3 parts this morning.

SidecarFlip · Jan 27, 2020

Told you at the outset, from the bottom. I don't know about the access on your tractor but on my M's, the lower perforated screen has to come off (4 bolts), slacken the alternator and if applicable the ac belt, the nut that holds the pulley on, pull the pulley and remove the seal, sleeve and o ring and replace and reassemble. Not sure of the torque setting on the nut but it's in the WSM. I have nothing in the 'way' except my front dif 4wd actuator cable. Yours may be different but probably not much. Pulley nut access is limited. Other than that it's straight forward.

Blackdodgeram · Jan 27, 2020

SidecarFlip said:
Told you at the outset, from the bottom. I don't know about the access on your tractor but on my M's, the lower perforated screen has to come off (4 bolts), slacken the alternator and if applicable the ac belt, the nut that holds the pulley on, pull the pulley and remove the seal, sleeve and o ring and replace and reassemble. Not sure of the torque setting on the nut but it's in the WSM. I have nothing in the 'way' except my front dif 4wd actuator cable. Yours may be different but probably not much. Pulley nut access is limited. Other than that it's straight forward.

Thank you very much for the info.

SidecarFlip · Jan 27, 2020

If you lived close, you could bring it by and I'd do it for you. My labor rate is $50 bucks an hour and $100 an hour if you stand over me asking stupid questions and making useless comments........

Blackdodgeram · Jan 27, 2020

Dug into it tonight. There is no way it can be done from the bottom on this model. Radiator for sure has to come out and possibly oil cooler. I think the AC condenser may have to go too just to get radiator out. Plus the steel lines for power steering are right in front of pulley and have to get unhooked to even get a puller on the balancer. Doesn't look fun.

200mph · Jan 27, 2020

Perhaps document the details along with pictures to help those who may need to perform the same task in the future.

Good luck!

Blackdodgeram · Jan 27, 2020

200mph said:
Perhaps document the details along with pictures to help those who may need to perform the same task in the future.

Good luck!

I will try to do that. I'm hoping I can make it till spring. It's my only plow rig.

North Idaho Wolfman · Jan 27, 2020

The front pulley is just that a pulley not a harmonic balancer, Kubota's don't use those.

I don't specifically about your L, but on my older L you need to drop the front axle to get the pulley off the crank.

5740 front engine oil seal

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