What do you use for a welder?

Slasher

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Feb 20, 2020
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MIddle Jawgia
I'm looking for one of those little Hobart Handler 140s as well. I've used a friend's, and they are great little machines.
The;Hobart are great machines... but if you’re learning to weld now, these automated settings are great... but I prefer to be able to do a little more adjusting going hotter and faster to get the penetration needed....

Even some of those HF machines produce some very nice results!!!
How long they work I don’t know ***129335;***8205;***9794;***65039;...

But I’ve seen some great welds come from a guy with one of their machines,,,
 

SidecarFlip

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M9000HDCC3, M9000HD, Kubota GS850 Sidekick
Oct 28, 2018
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Hobart actually uses quality chokes and components so wet out and bead appearance is always goo in push or pull modes using shielding gas of course.

I've run the Handler countless hours with no issues whatsoever.

My only complaint is the Hobart Handler's won't accept a 40 pound wire spool. Only 10 pound.

I don't need digtial readouts to weld properly though for an inexperienced user, pre programs might be a nice touch. (HF Titanium Series),
 

GreensvilleJay

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I have a Lincoln AC-225-S, 25 years old, replaced amps switch last year for $42. I only use 7018AC rods, can weld anything from lawn mower decks to tandem axle trailers. I've made 20+ trailers over the years, none have ever come back due to bad welds.
 

SidecarFlip

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If I have to 'stick it' together and it's steel, I use the Handler. It's quick and clean. If I want weld appearance and a bit slower, I use the ESAB pulsed MIG. If I'm welding, aluminum or stainless or even copper, I use the TIG. It's slow, looks fantastic and very stout (if done correctly) plus I can weld 1/32" material with it all day.
 

RCW

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I don't need digtial readouts to weld properly though for an inexperienced user, pre programs might be a nice touch.
True, Flip.

I grew up with a Lincoln tombstone stick welder like every farmer had, but that was a long, long time ago.

I know I posted much earlier, but I got a Lincoln 210MP a several years ago.

D2Cat and Daren Todd were both great coaches for me, along with my buddies here at home. I'm no pro by any means, but I've never had a weld break. Trust me, some of my welds have been pretty ugly...:eek:

So far, I've only done MIG w/ gas, but it's supposedly a decent stick welder. Haven't tried TIG, but it can do that also. I used it at 120v at first, but quickly put in a 60A subpanel so I could run 220v.

The pre-settings with adjustability do help me get a decent point of reference, but now I find I want to adjust heat, wire speed, etc. depending on what I'm doing.

I would recommend something like that for a newbie looking to get into welding.
 

SidecarFlip

Banned

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M9000HDCC3, M9000HD, Kubota GS850 Sidekick
Oct 28, 2018
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True, Flip.

I grew up with a Lincoln tombstone stick welder like every farmer had, but that was a long, long time ago.

I know I posted much earlier, but I got a Lincoln 210MP a several years ago.

D2Cat and Daren Todd were both great coaches for me, along with my buddies here at home. I'm no pro by any means, but I've never had a weld break. Trust me, some of my welds have been pretty ugly...:eek:

So far, I've only done MIG w/ gas, but it's supposedly a decent stick welder. Haven't tried TIG, but it can do that also. I used it at 120v at first, but quickly put in a 60A subpanel so I could run 220v.

The pre-settings with adjustability do help me get a decent point of reference, but now I find I want to adjust heat, wire speed, etc. depending on what I'm doing.

I would recommend something like that for a newbie looking to get into welding.

I started out gas welding with metal coat hangers and I welded a ton of stuff with gas and hangers....lol That gave me the initial experience of 2 handed welding to apply to TIG which is basically the same but you use a tungsten electrode to create the fusion heat instead of a gas ax.

The biggest hurdle for most people learning to TIG weld and take my word for it, there is a distinct learning curve involved is, keeping the filler rod in the gas envelope all the time when applying filler and learning how to applly filler rod and move the torch along to achieve the 'stack of dimes' look associated with TIG welding. Stick is easy, you clean the metal prep the joint and fill the weld being careful to get proper penetration. MIG is easier yet and you can push or pull the gun. TIG isn't. TIG is push only, push, pause, fill and push again all while keeping the filler rod in the gas envelope, not touching the Tung to the workpiece and modulating the amperage with your foot pedal to achieve a proper weld in appearance and strength.

Kind of like playing a piano. Both hands and a foot are involved and everything has to work in unison.

Why TIG welding is so expensive and because it it conducts electricity, it can be TIG welded (with the correct filler rod of course) The nthere is high frequency start and scratch start and different tungstens but I tend to use 2% thorated as it's a good all around tung.

If I did a lot of higher amperage TIG on thick stuff, I'd probably have a water cooled torch. as it is, I don't and when my torch gets hot, I just take a break. Nice thing about TIG is you can end and start back up and only a trained eye can see the bead interruption. Additionally, there is no spatter with TIG because there is no flux. The shielding gas eliminates the flux entirely, like gas MIG but with gas MIG you get spatter as the wire melts into the joint. Not so with TIG.

It's fun but it takes a lot of practice to even get average with it. I'm just average.
 

Magicman

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Yup, I was sorta fri-sky last night but the (fri) wore off and now I am a one handed (sky). I had a looong night!! :rolleyes: