PTO driven sprayer question

eiresurg

Member
Apr 30, 2019
79
15
8
Central, MN
Where you describe your normal start up procedure: I question if step 2 is causing some issues. With water in the tank, and above the pump, you should be able to start the PTO pump and it should prime. It will (and should) send all the fluid back to the tank via the by pass valve with the spray boom off. The by pass does two functions: you need a certain volume of spray to satisfy the volume and pressure requirements of the spray tips at a certain speed. The pump will (or should) be capable of putting out more than whatever that requirement is, so it has to go somewhere. Hence- the by pass. Sends it back to the tank. Second function of the by pass is to agitate the spray mix. Some stuff mixes and stays mixed pretty good. Others want to turn to cottage cheese. You need good agitation either way. The pressure gauge should read pressure (I tried to trace the plumbing, but I'm 99% that's factual) whenever the pump is running. No matter if its by passing into the tank or spraying via the boom. You need to be able to see the gauge easily from the seat of the tractor. If you can't, either plumb another gauge into the system and put it where you can see it, or relocate the one you have. When your spray solution is almost out, and the by pass is still on, the pump can start to cavitate (or, "starve"). Your gauge will start jumping around erratically. You need to either shut the pump off or , if your goal is to empty the spray solution 100%, shut the by pass off. Otherwise, even though you might think you didn't run the pump dry, you may in fact momentarily done just that. Potentially causing air pockets, or pump damage. A gauge is your friend here. You asked about brass fittings. DON"T DO IT! The poly fittings are generally impervious to most any chemicals you'll use. Use poly anytime you change plumbing.
Sprayed last night and had no issues. (???) The pump primed immediately.

Thank you for you explanation of the bypass system. Didn't occur to me that fluid is still going through the bypass when the booms were open. But, that does make sense now.

For emptying the tank, I have been running it until I see that the fluid coming out of the boom nozzles starts to sputter. Then I stop the PTO and return to the barn. I add a few gallons of water and run it again until it sputters. I repeat this once more to further dilute any pesticide/herbicide. There is always residual fluid in the tank, so i'm not sure how to empty that. As you pointed out, don't want to run the pump dry. There isn't a way to shut off the bypass completely as far as I can tell. There is a valve on the bottom of the tank that shuts off flow coming out of the tank to the pump. I guess that is there so you can disconnect the pump and not have the tank fluid pour out.

The pump is all stainless and the sprayer is stored in a heated barn during cool months. Would you still store it with RV antifreeze, and why?

Ordering those Banjo fittings today!

Thank you for your advice!
 

i7win7

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freezing water can destroy a pump, ever have a power failure? run out of heating fuel? have heater failure? gal of rv anti-freeze $3-$4 probably all that is needed. power washers have special lube/anti freeze mix to protect high pressure pump over winter.
 

D2Cat

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Eiresurg, below the tank you should have a strainer. You can take the strainer off (like you were going to clean the strainer) and the last bit of fluid should drip out of the tank.
 

eiresurg

Member
Apr 30, 2019
79
15
8
Central, MN
freezing water can destroy a pump, ever have a power failure? run out of heating fuel? have heater failure? gal of rv anti-freeze $3-$4 probably all that is needed. power washers have special lube/anti freeze mix to protect high pressure pump over winter.
Good point. I'll do that in the winter "just in case". But, otherwise I take it there is no reason to store the roller pump with fluid in it?
 

smackdab

New member
Sorry I didn't get back right away. Storing with antifreeze, as mentioned, makes sure there's no chance of a damaging freeze event. Frozen water in a spraying system- anywhere in the system- is likely the number 1 maintenance issue. After cleaning a sprayer the final time for the year, we like to dump RV antifreeze in the sprayer tank and recirculate through the pump and associated plumbing. Then, making sure there's still some antifreeze left, run it through the boom. No worries about freezing then. Secondly, most of the components to a sprayer tend to last longer if they don't get a chance to dry out for a long period of time. The RV antifreeze will keep things lubed a little. Lastly, the fluid will help prevent mice from moving into the pump (I've had them set up come spring, and its very hard to clean out). Also, some insects might take up residence. I've had those miserable raspberry beetles move into a dry open boom, and the cleanout was long and messy. Never had an issue with RV in the boom and system.
 

eiresurg

Member
Apr 30, 2019
79
15
8
Central, MN
Sorry I didn't get back right away. Storing with antifreeze, as mentioned, makes sure there's no chance of a damaging freeze event. Frozen water in a spraying system- anywhere in the system- is likely the number 1 maintenance issue. After cleaning a sprayer the final time for the year, we like to dump RV antifreeze in the sprayer tank and recirculate through the pump and associated plumbing. Then, making sure there's still some antifreeze left, run it through the boom. No worries about freezing then. Secondly, most of the components to a sprayer tend to last longer if they don't get a chance to dry out for a long period of time. The RV antifreeze will keep things lubed a little. Lastly, the fluid will help prevent mice from moving into the pump (I've had them set up come spring, and its very hard to clean out). Also, some insects might take up residence. I've had those miserable raspberry beetles move into a dry open boom, and the cleanout was long and messy. Never had an issue with RV in the boom and system.
Sounds like good advice. Thank you!
 

eiresurg

Member
Apr 30, 2019
79
15
8
Central, MN
The saga continues . . .

I tried to spray again, and had the same problems with the pump not priming. Going back to the manuals for the sprayer and pump, I noted that the pump manual reports GPM for this pump at various pressure settings based on a PTO rpm of 540. I found out pretty quickly, that I couldn't run my PTO at 540 for this sprayer because the pressure would be over 150psi. So, I had been running the PTO at 300rpm and had to turn the regulator all the way down to give me 30psi for the system. I was regulating the pressure with the PTO rpm. This didn't seem right, so I finally broke down and called FIMCO. The customer service guy said, "oh yeah. This is a common problem with that sprayer because the bypass line is too small. My prior manager had me send out larger hoses for those customers. I don't know why they don't just send it to the customer that way." They are sending me a larger hose with fittings and hose clamps.

I'm sharing all this just in case someone else buys this sprayer and has the same problem. It most certainly explains why the pump was struggling to prime on start up because there was so much resistance down-stream through that bypass line. At least, I hope that's the case. We'll see . . .

Thank you again for all that replied and offered input!
 

smackdab

New member
Never considered the return hose diameter would have been too small from the factory- but it does make sense. Glad you made contact with the company, and sounds like they have the solution for you. Their willingness to fix the problem is a sign of good customer service IMO.
 

eiresurg

Member
Apr 30, 2019
79
15
8
Central, MN
Never considered the return hose diameter would have been too small from the factory- but it does make sense. Glad you made contact with the company, and sounds like they have the solution for you. Their willingness to fix the problem is a sign of good customer service IMO.
Didn't either, especially being that it is brand new.

Was very impressed with their customer service. Sent them a message Tuesday morning through their "Contact Us" link on the website requesting that someone call me. In less than 2 hours I had a phone call (from an actual human that speaks English) and the apparent problem remedied. The new parts arrived today--two days later.
 

Palmettokat

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Apr 21, 2020
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I have a 3 pth Fimco bought about 1998. Still use it. Have replaced the nozzles bodies this year along with the hoses. They lasted me for at least 20 years. Tank lid has been replaced a few time, they just don't holdup to the sunlight or mine have not. Replaced the pressure regulator and cut off valve with heavier duty as I went to electrically control ones on a larger sprayer. Trying to say, been a good solid sprayer unit for me. Now it's home is my B2710 as it is great for smaller spay jobs and now my only sprayer as no longer farming. Used it often in farming operation to spray small areas and spot spraying. Did add hand nozzle to it and use it a lot for that to spray around yard and ditches and such.

Is odd to find undersize return hose.
 

eiresurg

Member
Apr 30, 2019
79
15
8
Central, MN
Final post on this topic, hopefully.

Found time yesterday to change the bypass hose and hose to boom. They were both 3/8". The company recommended they be upsized and sent new hose, fittings and hose clamps. They arrived in 2 days. Unfortunately, they sent the wrong stuff. Fed up with it, I went and bought new hose and fittings myself. Upsized to 1/2" for the bypass and line to boom. Ran it yesterday, and worked flawlessly. Prior to these upgrades/fixes, was not able to run PTO at 540 otherwise the pressure in the sprayer was too high. Now, the pressure is 30psi with regulator on lowest setting with PTO at 540. Now, to kill some thistle …

Thank you again to all that offered input!