L6060 and newbe

jdmcb · Aug 12, 2019

I am new to the forums and will have a lot of questions. I just purchased a 2017 6060HSTC from an auction and know nothing about the tractor. It has 167 hours on it. It is way more tractor than I need, but couldn't pass up the deal.
(half the cost of a new one) Is there anything I should be careful of. Any gotch yas that could hurt the tractor. Also, I need info on snow plowing. I am either going to purchase a 3 point blower or a fel snow blade. Any info would be aprreciated. Thanks

Trog777 · Aug 12, 2019

"Is there anything I should be careful of"

Dropping that lucky horseshoe on your toe?

sheepfarmer · Aug 12, 2019

Find an owner's manual if it didn't come with one, look in compartment on back of seat. Check out the directions for regeneration, or read here:

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28108

Lots of nice features on these L60 tractors, reading about them will help.

SDT · Aug 12, 2019

jdmcb said:
I am new to the forums and will have a lot of questions. I just purchased a 2017 6060HSTC from an auction and know nothing about the tractor. It has 167 hours on it. It is way more tractor than I need, but couldn't pass up the deal.
(half the cost of a new one) Is there anything I should be careful of. Any gotch yas that could hurt the tractor. Also, I need info on snow plowing. I am either going to purchase a 3 point blower or a fel snow blade. Any info would be aprreciated. Thanks

As Sheep has already advised, get an owner's manual.

If you have or get a FEL, and if it has a third function valve, be advised that the hoses for the third function valve are very vulnerable to damage.

SDT

chim · Aug 12, 2019

Congrats on that find and welcome aboard! As mentioned, the owner's manual is a great start. This site is a terrific resource. I'd spend a lot of time here and Tractorbynet studying the experiences, trials, errors and opinions on the boards.

One thing that will come up with regard to snow removal is whether or not you have room to shove it out of the way. Another is the type of area - paved, gravel, driveways, wider spaces like parking lots, etc.

CapnDean · Aug 12, 2019

I just did the same thing. Got an L6060HST at the auction. Mine however has 900 hours on it. Read up on REGEN, I had an L3901 and it re-gened all on its own. I am not sure that this one does what the manual says..... I say this because mine notified me that it was at 103% and needed to regen - I kept on bush hogging expecting it to do so and it did not. I hit the button (the one that is supposed to tell it NOT to regen) the button lit up and it went into regen and did just fine.

SDT · Aug 13, 2019

CapnDean said:
I just did the same thing. Got an L6060HST at the auction. Mine however has 900 hours on it. Read up on REGEN, I had an L3901 and it re-gened all on its own. I am not sure that this one does what the manual says..... I say this because mine notified me that it was at 103% and needed to regen - I kept on bush hogging expecting it to do so and it did not. I hit the button (the one that is supposed to tell it NOT to regen) the button lit up and it went into regen and did just fine.

Regen on my L6060 is absolutely seamless. I do not know if it has regenerated unless I scroll though the display screens to view the regen bar graph.

I do not have my owner's manual handy but I suspect that you had unintentionally put it into regen inhibit mode.

SDT

rjcorazza · Aug 13, 2019

SheepFarmer did an excellent write up on the 60 series Regen that is a recommended read. I believe the early 60's were by default in "inhibit Regen" mode, and later was changed to start out in "allow Regen" mode.
My L4060 starts off in allow Regen, and has been seamless over 6 regens averaging every 54 hours.
Anyway, I run a similar snow setup as the op mentions, but there are many variables and operator preferences. Front and rear blades for 90% of my jobs, 6' rear blower for the occasional big dump.

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sheepfarmer · Aug 13, 2019

There are 2 "editions" of the 60 series and 01 series tractors. The first models made in2013 have the default mode on startup as inhibit regen, and you have to enable auto regen by pushing the button. The buttons look different, see pictures in above referenced pdf. Later models will regen automatically, and you have to remember to inhibit if you are in an environment where trhe heat might cause a fire, for example.

jdmcb · Aug 13, 2019

Thanks for the fast response. I learned more from this thread than reading the entire manual. Now I have to decide on snow removal equipment. I have a 300 foot new concrete driveway. But I also have to plow the in laws farm next door which is gravel. The three choices cost about the same. 3 point 74 inch blower, FEL mounted blade, or the front blade with the Sub frame. Leaning toward the snow blower as this seems to be the easiest option and I can leave the loader on.

nickelplated5s · Aug 14, 2019

Change the oil and hydro filters.

rjcorazza · Aug 14, 2019

jdmcb said:
Thanks for the fast response. I learned more from this thread than reading the entire manual. Now I have to decide on snow removal equipment. I have a 300 foot new concrete driveway. But I also have to plow the in laws farm next door which is gravel. The three choices cost about the same. 3 point 74 inch blower, FEL mounted blade, or the front blade with the Sub frame. Leaning toward the snow blower as this seems to be the easiest option and I can leave the loader on.

For new concrete you may want to consider looking into polyurethane, rubber, or other material for the cutting edge.
I installed a 1.5" x 6" x 84" polyurethane edge on my rear blade for customers that don't want scrape marks on their pavement. They are not cheap though. We have had 3 years of very light snow, so I have plowed a total of 88 times with driveways ranging from 100' to 1000' with the poly edge. It's lost about an inch of material and needs to be redrilled and lowered for next season.
Concrete is less forgiving than asphalt when it comes to marking up, plus the scrape marks don't go away like on asphalt.

For the rare gravel drive I do I generally use the loader bucket with "Edge Tamers", which works well with the typical small snows I have to deal with.
Just my 2 cents... Opinions vary.

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SDT · Aug 14, 2019

rjcorazza said:
For new concrete you may want to consider looking into polyurethane, rubber, or other material for the cutting edge.
I installed a 1.5" x 6" x 84" polyurethane edge on my rear blade for customers that don't want scrape marks on their pavement. They are not cheap though. We have had 3 years of very light snow, so I have plowed a total of 88 times with driveways ranging from 100' to 1000' with the poly edge. It's lost about an inch of material and needs to be redrilled and lowered for next season.
Concrete is less forgiving than asphalt when it comes to marking up, plus the scrape marks don't go away like on asphalt.

For the rare gravel drive I do I generally use the loader bucket with "Edge Tamers", which works well with the typical small snows I have to deal with.
Just my 2 cents... Opinions vary.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I bought the Kubota hydraulically angled FEL mounted snow plow for my B3350 when I bought it.

I also bought the optional (not cheap) composite cutting edge because I have two freshly paved asphalt driveways, each about 900' long.

Takes a bit of practice but works well once I learned how to do it.

Kubota does not offer a hard rubber or plastic cutting edge for the snow plow that I bought with my RTV-X1100C and I have not yet adapted a generic edge to it. Until I do, I'm afraid to use it.

SDT

rjcorazza · Aug 14, 2019

SDT said:
I bought the Kubota hydraulically angled FEL mounted snow plow for my B3350 when I bought it.

I also bought the optional (not cheap) composite cutting edge because I have two freshly paved asphalt driveways, each about 900' long.

Takes a bit of practice but works well once I learned how to do it.

Kubota does not offer a hard rubber or plastic cutting edge for the snow plow that I bought with my RTV-X1100C and I have not yet adapted a generic edge to it. Until I do, I'm afraid to use it.

SDT

I used a generic polyurethane blank (90 durometer?) that is made for plow edges. I just clamped it on the moldboard in 3 or 4 places and used a woodcutting bit through the moldboard holes from the rear and through the edge. At 1.5" thick the material is solid enough that bolts and regular washers are fine, as opposed to thinner poly requiring a steel plate across the entire edge.
I know you didn't ask, but it should be just as easy with your RTV. I have always wanted an RTV with cab, as I suspect it would be a fast and efficient plowing machine for 90% of the snows I have to deal with. Plus I could replace my golf cart with it for mail and trash duty!

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L6060 and newbe

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