L175 clutch moisture, now went engage

jcyphert

New member

Equipment
1975 - L175
Sep 26, 2011
22
0
0
shippenville
I recently rebuilt the clutch assembly and install new plates, engagement levers and bearings. I pressure washed the tractor after I put the bell housing back together. It appears it got moisture in the housing causing the the clutch to not engage. I'm assuming the plates are rusted together. How can i get it to engage without splitting the bell housing?
 

birddogger

New member
May 29, 2011
433
0
0
Pittsburgh
You mean won't disengage? right?
Block the foot lever down, remove the inspection plate, rotate the engine till you can reach through the gaps in the clutch basket and pop the plate(s) loose with a lever, Wonder-Bar or what have you.
 

Orange Tractors

Member

Equipment
L175 w/Woods L59, Allis Chalmers WD
Jul 19, 2009
323
4
18
Butler, MO
I recently rebuilt the clutch assembly and install new plates, engagement levers and bearings. I pressure washed the tractor after I put the bell housing back together. It appears it got moisture in the housing causing the the clutch to not engage. I'm assuming the plates are rusted together. How can i get it to engage without splitting the bell housing?
Was it working before you prerssure washed it? If not you are going to have to split it again to get everything adjusted correctly.

The older small Kubotas had a habit of rusting the clutch plate to the flywheel or pressure plate, causing them not to disengage. My L175 had the clutch frozen together when I got it; we pulled it in gear and repeatedly stepped on the clutch pedal to free it.

Robert
 

jcyphert

New member

Equipment
1975 - L175
Sep 26, 2011
22
0
0
shippenville
Everything thing worked great until the water layed in the bottom of the bell housing. It had to have rusted... I tried to block the clutch and tap it free but no luck. Where should I be trying to tap?I tried to tap the gear on the shaft, between the plates. Got nothing...
 

Stumpy

New member

Equipment
L175
Dec 1, 2011
848
3
0
NE Ohio
More information required. Are you saying the clutch disc won't release when the pedal is pressed in and thus you can't get it in gear once it's started?

Vic's method that I haven't tried but agree with in principle is thus: Start the motor in gear and drive it out to hard surface. Be careful, the only way to stop is to slap in in neutral when the transmission is unloaded (by holding the throttle just so or catching it at the right moment as you take your foot off the throttle) or to pull the compression release. Asphalt or concrete would be best but unless your road is lightly traveled that may be difficult. Hard flat dirt is preferable to gravel. Once you get there shut it down and make sure your brake pedals are locked together. Now restart in a one of the road gears, 7-8mph at max rpm is preferable. Run it up to full rpm, set the governor arm, then put the clutch in and stomp the brakes. Take care not to lock them, fish tailing something with a high center of gravity is nothing to laugh about. You may stall the engine once or twice but that should brake it loose. Slip the clutch a bit to clean the rust off but don't overheat it.
 

jcyphert

New member

Equipment
1975 - L175
Sep 26, 2011
22
0
0
shippenville
More information required. Are you saying the clutch disc won't release when the pedal is pressed in and thus you can't get it in gear once it's started?
Correct. The pedal willpush but it does not disengage the transmission. I can start it in gear allowing the tractor to creap ahead. I'll give vic's method a try.
 

jcyphert

New member

Equipment
1975 - L175
Sep 26, 2011
22
0
0
shippenville
You folks are awesome! I got it working using a combination of all methods.
Thank you all for that.
Do you have any recommendations on making sure it doesn't happen again? Should i have put liquid gasket around the bell housing?
 

Orange Tractors

Member

Equipment
L175 w/Woods L59, Allis Chalmers WD
Jul 19, 2009
323
4
18
Butler, MO
I have read that the older Kubotas came with a block of wood to hold the clutch released. I don't know but I don't like to leave the tractor sitting with nothing but the brakes holding it.

I store mine in the barn, it keeps most of the rain off in the summer, and the snow and ise off in the winter. I haven't had any problems since I got the tractor three or four years ago.

Robert
 

Stumpy

New member

Equipment
L175
Dec 1, 2011
848
3
0
NE Ohio
Yeah I wouldn't recommend that. Springs can settle a bit if held a loaded in position for too long. You may end up with a clutch that won't grab.

You'd have to split it again to add liquid gasket wouldn't you? :) I think you're going to have trouble getting a decent water tight seal around the bell housing. The clutch arm doesn't seal very well and there are a dozen different entrances for water to get in. If you want to give it a go I'd use black silicone and don't forget the starter, starter casting, the steering box, timing window, and clutch service port.
 

jcyphert

New member

Equipment
1975 - L175
Sep 26, 2011
22
0
0
shippenville
If you want to give it a go I'd use black silicone and don't forget the starter, starter casting, the steering box, timing window, and clutch service port.
Yikes! I (wrongly) never really consider those as possible entry points. Maybe it would be better to just keep the drain bolt out and access panel open a few days after cleaning from now on. I'm slowly trying to break myself from my fathers way of doing things, "If it ain't broke... don't fix it!" and take more of a TLC approach. After all, the old girl has seven years on me and I'm barely held together.


Thanks for the help!

-Jamey