No start D1105.... tower light...this shouldn't be so hard

original81

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Feb 13, 2020
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Well I am finally forced to ask for specific advice. I have a D1105 in light tower that I just can't get going. I have followed many of the threads on here and concluded that my injector pump was not doing it's thing. I pulled the pump asked a service place to test it, was told they don't bother testing it, and I agreed to get it rebuilt.

I installed it today. Not happy.

A few details

I have no track record with this motor and never heard it run,

There is fuel in the tank

The electric fuel pump works and in the course of 10 seconds would pump 6 ozs. approx. not empirically tested but if you have a number of oz's it should pump let me know

the low pressure side cycles fuel like it should back to the tank

There is no white smoke coming from the exhaust

no smell of fuel

no fuel coming from the lines top of the lines when cracked or completely removed

EXCEPT a little tiny bit of fuel came out of the 3rd line


no fuel coming from the pump when all three lines are removed from the pump, whether at half throttle or at idle

Inside the body of the block where the pump sits, the linkage looks whole and springs are present and attached.
when spinning the crank all three lobs on the fuel camshaft turn.

when replacing the pump, took care to have the fuel shut off slide engage properly so that when it was bolted in the slider was in position for the fuel cutoff solenoid, it springs back with my finger as it should.

so what does everyone think...

I have not tested the glow plugs... no point, haven't got fuel yet,
nor did I test for compression.. no point haven't got fuel yet

what simple thing am I missing?

Do I have to prime the injector pump?

the oil looks ok, doesn't smell like diesel, tastes like oil
 

original81

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Feb 13, 2020
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Grimsby, Ontario, Canada
I have followed the process for bleeding the lines to the injectors. one line cracked at the injector at a time. no results. cracking for 20 seconds at a time to prevent starter burn out, repeatedly. I finally took all the lines back off the injector pump to see what happens and nothing happens.

I have bled a few diesel units over the past 35 years that run out of fuel on construction sites. most have had hand primer pumps but those that haven't, I cracked a line on the injector

no fuel coming from the injector pump.
except a little trickling on the third cyl. (left facing pump)
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Is the stop solenoid working?

On some model kubota's the stop solenoid is actually a run solenoid it must be powered to get the rack to move to get fuel to move.

Ditch all of the fuel system and bottle /gravity feed the injection pump from above it.

Is there a knob on the inlet of the fuel injection pump?

If there is that is a jet start valve (air bleeder) and it need to be in the closed position for it to work.
 

original81

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I will try the IV bottle method tonight. It is possible that the flow is not adequate despite my thoughts. It does not have a knob on the inlet of the fuel pump but it is double bolted... so that must be the bleed nut for the pump....

thanks for your knob comment it got me thinking

I will hook up an IV bag , and unscrew that nut... that should prime the injection pump...

The solenoid is currently fully extended, and there is no power to it and when i ground it nothing happens.. when I turn the key and ground the unit it retracts so I am thinking that its a stop solenoid rather that a run solenoid. I have studied the wiring diagram and it seems to support that concept.
But having said that, that solenoid comes from my D905, which runs like top btw, where it performs as it should and the D905 runs without the solenoid attached.

I will double check the run solenoid idea.

Thanks for the interest and help... I appreciate it! this is a solid motor and I am loath to give up on it.
 

original81

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Feb 13, 2020
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Well I set up the remote tank, disconnected the fuel pump..put the injector lines back together and left one cracked at the injector.

I cracked the 10 mm nut on the inlet line fitting,, assuming this was where they used to install a knob.
I drained fuel thru the nut by gravity , and it let air bubbles out as well. It took quite a bit of fuel... I don't know where it was putting it

I cracked the engine over a bunch, alternating the nut open and closed, lots of fuel and bubbles.
then unexpectedly it coughed

I fiddled with the open injector line and as I was tightening it, the engine caught and it ran.

unfortunately my remote tank was small and it choose that moment to run empty, I was unable to get the regular fuel system back on, and it died.

I tried to start the unit with the fuel pump and kept opening and closing the 10 mm nut as I cranked, It kept fizzing and squirting fuel. but no go ..

the starter as getting past hot, so I packed it in for the night.

I will rig up a better temp tank in the morning.

So it will run.....It runs on the gravity feed...it seems to want to think about starting with the fuel pump.. but it seems to not get enough fuel that way.???

it's a little early to say that,

the fuel filter looks brand new, the inline filter as well. but that means nothing.

more testing tomorrow.

solenoid seems to be a stop one.. everything fine there

what would your conclusions be at this stage?
 

D2Cat

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It seems your problem is fuel from the tank to the Injection pump. Make sure the tank is clean inside, load with new fuel so you know it's good, clean and treated for winter temperatures. Then follow the fuel flow until you get good flow to the IP.
 

original81

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I will purchase some new fuel. Eliminate that variable

I will bypass the fuel system with a gravity tank

Is there a proscribed flow rate that the pump requires?
gallons/minute or liters/min?

thanks for the direction.. I know this a puzzle that can be solved.



l
 

original81

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to member 1810 that replied "Did you use the right bleeding procedure"

I would say no to that now. I never primed the pump.

Thanks for your comment, and spurring the convo

Again if some one could confirm that nut is for priming the pump, That would be appreciated.
 

D2Cat

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Can you post a picture of the IP? That would probably get you quicker and better answers.

One the fuel rate, don't be too concerned with measuring volume. As long as you have a steady (constant) flow with no air (bubbles) you'll be fine.
 

original81

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I do believe we have solved the running issue. I set up a better remote IV with fresh fuel and started up the unit>>
IT jumped into action and ran like a scared Cat.
I let it run for 20 mins and observed no issues with the unit. I shut it down

conclusion for me is that the engine and fuel injector pump are fine..

Next time I will reset up the original fuel system and give it a crank. See if I can get it to run

I currently have an inline fuel before the pump filter < silver body 3 inches long, then the fuel pump and then the fuel filter.

Is any one able to suggest a replacement inline filter? and fuel pump should I need one.

Ok good to know on the fuel rate. It did look good, good stream and no froth

thanks again for the help

pictures? yeah I might be a moderator by the time I figure out how to put pic in this program
 

Daren Todd

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Those inline fuel filters are horrible on a light plant. Not enough surface area to handle any real length of run time on a diesel.

My advise is to get an after market fuel filter base and fuel filter from the auto parts store and use instead of the inline filter. It should run between $30 and $50 with the re ppl placement filters being around $15. At least then you can increase the run time between filter changes from around 100 hrs to 250 hours.

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Daren Todd

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That is a good idea, I know the kind you mean. I will have a look at that.

Thanks
On the ones I had in the rental fleet, I just mounted the base in an easy to reach place on the inside of the cabinet and replaced the fuel lines if needed to reach the base. A couple hose barbs screwed into the filter base and a couple hose clamps completed the install.

Since the fact I was renting them, those inline filters caused me quite a few service calls. Usually in the middle of the night :rolleyes: switching out to a regular spin on fuel filters saved us money in the long run, since they would last till the unit was due for service :)

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Russell King

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Also remember that you may introduce air back into the system when you get the original system hooked back up. So you may see it stumble and keep running or it could just die again.

So you have probably figured out how to bleed it well so don’t get too discouraged if you have to bleed it again.


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original81

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good points King and Todd....I did a test for a few minutes

I hooked everything back up and and put the the fuel tube submerged in an bit of diesel. I pushed prime button and in the submerged pool I pumped about a gallon of fuel and a ton of bubbles. the upstream system is full of air.. chock full.

I believe the fuel quantity to adequate but the system will never run if is kept fed air..


no time to bled out the fuel filter right now but that is next step.

thanks for the tips fellows... these are common things but not visible to the trained eye..

keep them coming!!
 

Russell King

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Glad to see that it will run when fuel is available. That makes it worth the effort you have put into it already. And narrows the problem to the fuel tank to pump section of the system.

If it has a steel tank you may want to verify that it is not rusted on the interior of the tank. On my L185 the tank was rusting out and would clog the spin on filter. When I was cleaning the tank several small holes appeared in the bottom.


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D2Cat

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If your fuel tank is steel, you can get a horseshoe shaped magnet and tie a piece of heavy bailing twine around it and drop it into the tank. After fetching out all the rust crumbs you can, leave the magnet in the tank and just tie the string off or screw the lid down over it with several inches just laying there. This will keep metal trash in place!
 

original81

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Thankfully it is not metal!! had that issue with an old bike. .. It's plastic and pretty much see thru. It looks clean for the most part.

I going to pull the main fuel filter and empty it in a clean container, fill it and reinstall, then, going to set the fuel pump up to cycle fuel in circle, out of the tank back into the tank.
after a half hour I will check to see if it still blowing bubbles. I would think by that time it should just be pushing fuel. If not i will let it cycle all evening and try again.

I think somehow they should have brought the fuel higher than the injector pump in the original design. i am sure that idea got squished in the corner cutting dept. i will look at placing a filter as recommended to replace the inline filter that should induce some gravity pressure downstream.. maybe that will help.