Leaving box scraper installed all the time

blwn31 · Jul 28, 2010

I was wondering if leaving the box scraper on all the time is bad for anything. I am using my tractor for lots of FEL work but, I have to go down a pretty steep grade with the loader bucket full. I like the extra weight on the back of the tractor for balance. I haven't tried to run the route without the box scraper installed. Currently I have 200lbs hanging on the box scraper. The tractor seems light in the rear when I first go over the crest on down the hill. The tires are already filled with some kind of compound (red like rasberry color fluid). If it is I could back down the hill but, that would be a major slow way for me to go. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Keith

GWD · Jul 28, 2010

Leaving the box scraper on won't do any damage. Tractors are made for such things. Just lower it to the ground when shutting down the tractor.

It sounds like you could use even more ballast on the 3PH from your description. There are many ways to build or create a special ballast that will serve your purpose. They tend to be more compact than a box scraper so maneuvering is easier.

Do a search on this site for "ballast" and on other tractor sites as well. Some people are very creative.

traildust · Jul 28, 2010

a dusty ditto on GWD!

Pull that box scraper off and you will be sucking your pants through your cheeks very fast if you are using the fel.

B7510 · Jul 28, 2010

You can use your "BS" (Box Scraper) for a counter balance or load a 3ph mounted weight box full of "BS" (you get the idea)

of the same or similar weight to do the same or similar job. If you have lots of manoeuvering room stick with the Box Scraper an you won't have an added expense. If you are worried about "space" as you work the fell, replace the Box Scraper with a compact 3ph weight box and fill it with "BS"

or whatever.

Bulldog · Jul 28, 2010

I always use a implement for a counter weight when doing loader work and 9 times out of 10 my choice is the box scrape. It hang close to the tractor and is heavy enough for about everthing.

GWD · Jul 28, 2010

Here are a couple of counterweight ideas to get you started if you consider building one.

Bulldog · Jul 28, 2010

Interesting counter weight in the second pic. I would like a better look at the hyd lift and top link on that tractor. Don't hold out on us now, we need some pics of that sweet looking setup.

blwn31 · Jul 29, 2010

Thanks for all the input. I figured so, will have to come up with something for the tight areas.

Keith

GWD · Jul 29, 2010

Bulldog said:
Interesting counter weight in the second pic. I would like a better look at the hyd lift and top link on that tractor. Don't hold out on us now, we need some pics of that sweet looking setup.

The Top & Tilt has been used much more than anticipated. It is especially useful when plowing or scraping. Adjusting other 3 PH attachments to suit the job is a breeze.

The Top & Tilt is simply a Gearmore product. This site won't upload .pdf files or the information would be sent.

In the link below, the right side of the page near the end has a link to the Top & Tilt .pdf file.

http://www.gearmore.com/products.html

Bulldog · Jul 29, 2010

I can see where that would be very handy. I'm assuming that the 3pt will work like normal plus you will have down pressure when needed. Is that how it works or do you raise the 3pt with the new cylinders now?

pat331 · Jul 29, 2010

I have a top 'n tilt kit of my L35. I use it with practically every 3pt piece of equipment I have, even the mower. Mine does not apply down pressure because of the way the lift arms work. I also found without any weight of the back of the tractor (even w/ tires filled w/ fluid), the FEL will lift more than my butt will hold down. I had an exiting ride one day. I then made my counterweight with a 55 gallon drum and filled it with concrete. It made a huge difference.

GWD · Jul 29, 2010

Bulldog said:
I can see where that would be very handy. I'm assuming that the 3pt will work like normal plus you will have down pressure when needed. Is that how it works or do you raise the 3pt with the new cylinders now?

The tractor's 3 PH works just like normal. The hydraulic top link only shortens or lengthens the top of the implement like manually adjusting it with a standard top link. An extra advantage is that by retracting the top link the implement can be lifted especially high off of the ground. It does not exert down pressure since lengthening the link does not affect the lower arms' characteristic to float.

The "Tilt" portion works like it sounds. It shortens or lengthens one lift arm link to lower or raise one side of the implement. This adjustment is critical for plowing. The first pass is made with the plow level and then progressive passes are made with the wheels on one side in a ditch so to make the plow level it has to be adjusted. A flat running plow is a joy to observe working.

With a box scraper or blade the adjustments can be made on the fly for the exact amount of cut or ditching or both. Very convenient. If grading a road it would seem to be a requirement to have a T & T unless climbing on and off of the tractor to make fine adjustments is enjoyable.

Sorry to hijack the thread.

Bulldog · Jul 29, 2010

Thanks for that thurough walk thru. I have seen the hyd top link many times but I have never seen a set up like yours. I like the way that sounds. Just out of curiousity if you don't mind, How much did that setup cost and does it come in a complete kit?

GWD · Jul 30, 2010

Bulldog said:
Thanks for that thurough walk thru. I have seen the hyd top link many times but I have never seen a set up like yours. I like the way that sounds. Just out of curiousity if you don't mind, How much did that setup cost and does it come in a complete kit?

To continue the hijack....

Each Cat 2 cylinder runs about $370, custom hoses $35 ea., Kubota additional valves $!50 ea. The total comes in somewhere around $1100 if installed by a dealer as mine was when the tractor was purchased. I may have gotten a deal or skinned - doesn't matter to me given the price of the tractor and the advantage of warrantied work.

If you are handy with hydraulics and can have the hoses locally built it may be able to be done for much less. Cat 1 cylinders also may be less expensive.

Bulldog · Jul 30, 2010

Thanks for all the info.

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