Shell Rotella T6 5w-40

rut3556

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L2250, TG1860
Oct 23, 2015
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I'm curious to see if anyone is using this in any older Kubota diesels? I've been using Amsoil 15-40 Diesel/Marine in my '85 L2250 as well as my 2000 TG1860 for years now but am looking to save a few bucks and buy locally as well. Any thoughts or comments would be welcomed.

Thanks..........
 

SidecarFlip

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All I use in everything but the lawnmowers and they get 15-40 Rotella.
 

eddiebob

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Well, we have two diesel trucks, one diesel car, and two diesel tractors and they all get Shell Rotella T6. The majority of the +1000 hp generators I have been around run it as well.
 

JeffL

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B7200E, B4200DT
Jan 8, 2016
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Probably one of the best diesel oils on the market. I used it in my gas engines until they dropped the gas rating. Happening to most of the diesel oils as the additive package as moved so far to the diesel side they are not suited for gas engines anymore.
 

rut3556

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L2250, TG1860
Oct 23, 2015
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If you use it much you'll loose more in fuel economy than what you save. Can't beat Amsoil products.
Well, since I only go through about 10 gallons of fuel per year that's not much of a loss for me. :p I'm really more interested in the lubricating qualities of T-6, and from what I'm seeing it does just fine.
 
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Bulldog

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M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
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Well, since I only go through about 10 gallons of fuel per year that's not much of a loss for me. :p I'm really more interested in the lubricating qualities of T-6, and from what I'm seeing it does just fine.
At 10 gallons a year about anything would work.

T6 does okay if you don't mind the smell.
 

troverman

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MX6000 HSTC; 2020 Kubota Z421KW-54 zero turn mower
Jun 9, 2015
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If you use it much you'll loose more in fuel economy than what you save. Can't beat Amsoil products.
T6 works great, as you can see from many satisfied users. Amsoil is fine, but no better. It just costs more.

I use T6 in my 2017 Ford Powerstroke and my 2018 RAM Cummins, and my DPF-equipped Kubota diesel. Have used it for years in previous trucks...no issues, no smell, same fuel economy as any other oil.
 

SidecarFlip

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At 10 gallons a year about anything would work.

T6 does okay if you don't mind the smell.
Smell? Smells like refined oil to me. Certainly less 'smelly' that the 80-90 GL5 Gear oil I use in my front axles on my Tractors.

Not sure about Amsoil and per hour fuel consumption. Care to provide a link to and independent comparison for gallons used per hour at rated load versus the cost per unit (lubricant)? I'm curious now. I buy 5-40 T6 in 30 gallon drums for about 17 bucks a gallon (no tax) from my jobber. I bet Amsoil is substantially more expensive than that.

I'd switch with concrete documentation concerning fuel savings versus product cost. I run a lot of hours just like you do so cost savings equates to more profit in the end.
 

troverman

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...I buy 5-40 T6 in 30 gallon drums for about 17 bucks a gallon (no tax) from my jobber.
Amazon sells 3 gallons (in 1 gallon jugs) for $55 no shipping charge for T6. That's $18/gal or essentially the same as you're paying, but in a container that's easier to meter out the oil into the tractor / truck then a drum and pump (unless you have a metered pump).
 

nota4re

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I too will say that there will not be any measurable fuel economy differences between same viscosity, modern synthetic motor oils. Only marketing fluff at best.
 

SidecarFlip

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Amazon sells 3 gallons (in 1 gallon jugs) for $55 no shipping charge for T6. That's $18/gal or essentially the same as you're paying, but in a container that's easier to meter out the oil into the tractor / truck then a drum and pump (unless you have a metered pump).
I bet Amazon wing ding you for sales tax...

No issue for me, my lubricant drums each go in racks in a horizontal position with a drum tap in the bunghole. Each rack stands vertically, then lays over to the horizontal position for emptying the contents.

ULine and Global sell them. Had them for years.
 

troverman

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No sales tax in my state...
 

Bulldog

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Rocky Face, Georgia
I too will say that there will not be any measurable fuel economy differences between same viscosity, modern synthetic motor oils. Only marketing fluff at best.
All I can say to that is you should try it for yourself. I've seen as much as 3 mpg gain just with engine oil.

I was using Mobil1 10w30 and switched to Amsoil 10w30. I ended up changing trans, transfer case and diffs. In total picked up 5 mpg.

Modern or not, all synthetics are not equal.
 

Bulldog

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I'd switch with concrete documentation concerning fuel savings versus product cost. I run a lot of hours just like you do so cost savings equates to more profit in the end.
Still doing hay so I'm to tired to search. But I can give you a real world number from today. I baled for 8 hrs. Total run time was more like 9 hrs but actual field time was 8. I burned 11 gallons with my M9000.

We have the same tractors and same size baler. What kind of numbers do you see?

Now I've got myself curious.

And yes Amsoil is more expensive.
Dealer cost on 15w40 Diesel and marine oil is $28 gal in 30 gal drum.
The 5w30 heavy duty diesel I run is $35 gal in 30 gal drum.
 

SidecarFlip

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Honestly and candidly Phil, I don't know because I've never put a pencil to it and I'm done for the year (would be glad to come help you if you want).

I can do it next season however and get some real world, in the field numbers, if I'm alive and the well don't go dry this winter.

We might be different in as much as I'm running 4x4 and you run 4x5, but I can change up to 4x5 (and was thinking about it anyway because my customer prefers 4x5 over 4x4. I wasn't running 4x5 because the bailer didn't have that many total bales on it, but now that I'm past the 500 mark I don't think it matters how I stuff the chamber anymore.

I can do mow, ted (if needed), rake and bale as individual usage charts and by next year the OS will be 'tuned up' and dyno tested so it should be good as well.

I'm curious as well. If the fueling rates are that diverse, I may switch but they have to show me a substantial difference. 28 bucks per is quite a bit more than I pay for T6 (17 bucks per).

On a side note, I will start the season with a fresh oil change and Kubota filters in both, I do my oil changes in the spring because I use the M9 (cab tractor) to plow snow with.

Having identical tractors and doing the same tasks should make for an interesting comparison.
 

troverman

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All I can say to that is you should try it for yourself. I've seen as much as 3 mpg gain just with engine oil.

I was using Mobil1 10w30 and switched to Amsoil 10w30. I ended up changing trans, transfer case and diffs. In total picked up 5 mpg.

Modern or not, all synthetics are not equal.
With all due respect, if that truly was the case, every manufacturer on the planet would be insisting their vehicles only used Amsoil, don't you think? With all the complicated, expensive things that are done to gain only a tenth of an mpg here and there, getting +3mpg merely by using Amsoil would be pretty easy and obvious, no?

GM just introduced "Dynamic Skip Fire" on their 5.3L V8 engines...it can shut down any combination of cylinders and involves very complex lifters, oil passageways, electronics, and sensors. RAM has a motorized air dam which extends down at highway speed and back up at slow speeds to improve mpg. Of course, these strategies are only giving minute fuel gains.

I don't believe any manufacturer "recommends" Amsoil, despite the fact that many manufacturers DO recommend some other brand of oil, such as Castrol or Mobil.

Just like Judge Judy says "If it's too good to be true...it probably is."
 

dlundblad

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If you use it much you'll loose more in fuel economy than what you save. Can't beat Amsoil products.
With all due respect, didn't you say a liquid cooled engine runs cooler with Amsoil as well? Far fetched claims IMO.

The only difference OP will see is money savings.
 

SidecarFlip

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With all due respect, if that truly was the case, every manufacturer on the planet would be insisting their vehicles only used Amsoil, don't you think? With all the complicated, expensive things that are done to gain only a tenth of an mpg here and there, getting +3mpg merely by using Amsoil would be pretty easy and obvious, no?

GM just introduced "Dynamic Skip Fire" on their 5.3L V8 engines...it can shut down any combination of cylinders and involves very complex lifters, oil passageways, electronics, and sensors. RAM has a motorized air dam which extends down at highway speed and back up at slow speeds to improve mpg. Of course, these strategies are only giving minute fuel gains.

I don't believe any manufacturer "recommends" Amsoil, despite the fact that many manufacturers DO recommend some other brand of oil, such as Castrol or Mobil.

Just like Judge Judy says "If it's too good to be true...it probably is."
Well, maybe and maybe not. We both (Bulldog and I) run Ford V8 diesels, not gas motors though I still have a 7.3 PS and he's upgraded to a later model. I realized a 3 mpg increase in fuel consumption (and I penciled it carefully) when I started using Archoil Nano Borate additive and their fuel additive in my 7.3. Could be 'snake oil' but my calculations say no. Base oil remained the same, 5-40 T6. Is it cheap? No. Does it work? Certainly. Added benefit for me is the motor is a HUEI engine, Hydraulically actuated unit injector motor and the injectors tend to carbon up at the end of the injector pintle and the Nano-Borate cleans the carbon deposits away so the motor starts easier and runs smoother. It also keeps the motor clean inside (Nano-Borate is a cleaning compound). Last year I replaced the injector harnesses on both banks and had the valve covers off and both overheads were as clean and residue free as when the engine was built. If my Kubota tractors had the same injection system (they don't), I'd be using it in them as well.

Not sure about the sequential cylinder shut down feature being 'new'. My wife's 2008 Suburban LTZ has that. It has that to meet the fuel economy standards without having to pay a 'gas guzzler' tax. Runs on all 8 until you set the cruise (over 50) and then derates 4 cylinders and runs as a 4 cylinder until the ECM calls for 'power' and then it reverts back to all 8.