Rotary cutter for a B2650

Highmarket

Member

Equipment
B2650hsdc
Jan 15, 2019
38
4
8
Constableville NY Tughill
Whats a good brand Rotary cutter. I have a few acre's I want to keep from over growing and maybe cut some new trails in future. Most of it is just tall grass because it was cut last year by previous owner. Dealer is recommending a Land pride RCR1860 which will cut up to 2". Is there a good after market brand equivalent. Thanks Rich
 

beckmurph

Active member

Equipment
Kubota LX2610TLB/Woods finish mower/woods rotary cutter/
Aug 23, 2012
271
133
43
catlettsburg, ky
I have used a Woods BBx48 Brushbull for the last seven years.
I have used it hard. Replaced the stump jumper once and had the skids welded 2 times.

The blades are much easier to change on this Woods than the LandPride I used for 4 summers.

The Woods has an opening in the deck that you can access the blade bolts from the top.
The LandPride blade bolts were only accessible from the bottom.

I looked at new rotary cutters last year, but didn’t buy one.

The LP RCF2060 and Woods BBx60 were the 2 I looked at. Very close in weight, length, and price.
 

Tughill Tom

Well-known member

Equipment
B3200
Dec 23, 2013
1,102
1,116
113
Turin, NY
I have used a Woods BBx48 Brushbull for the last seven years.
I have used it hard. Replaced the stump jumper once and had the skids welded 2 times.

The blades are much easier to change on this Woods than the LandPride I used for 4 summers.

The Woods has an opening in the deck that you can access the blade bolts from the top.
The LandPride blade bolts were only accessible from the bottom.

I looked at new rotary cutters last year, but didn’t buy one.

The LP RCF2060 and Woods BBx60 were the 2 I looked at. Very close in weight, length, and price.
On the new Landprides you can change the blades from the top now. Im running An 1860 and works great
 

Cathy Liebchen

Active member

Equipment
KUBOTA L3901, MX5800, MULE PRO FX, MULE PRO FXT
Whats a good brand Rotary cutter. I have a few acre's I want to keep from over growing and maybe cut some new trails in future. Most of it is just tall grass because it was cut last year by previous owner. Dealer is recommending a Land pride RCR1860 which will cut up to 2". Is there a good after market brand equivalent. Thanks Rich
LP1860 is a good medium duty mower and reasonably priced, so there is no after market brand equivalent that would save a bunch of money.
 

SDT

Well-known member

Equipment
multiple and various
Apr 15, 2018
3,084
923
113
SE, IN
Whats a good brand Rotary cutter. I have a few acre's I want to keep from over growing and maybe cut some new trails in future. Most of it is just tall grass because it was cut last year by previous owner. Dealer is recommending a Land pride RCR1860 which will cut up to 2". Is there a good after market brand equivalent. Thanks Rich
I have owned rough cut mowers of several different brands.

Currently, I own BB720X, BB840X and BW 15.50 Woods mowers. I previously owned a Woods MDS1260 but sold it about two years ago.

I also own a Frontier (JDs inexpensive line that does not carry the JD name) RC 2060.

I have been pleased with all of my Woods mowers; the Frontier, not so much.

New Woods mowers have a recessed grease zerk on the blade bolts, accessible from above that should help prevent the bolts from rusting in place. MY 15.50 15' BW has this system. Time will tell.

Woods and Bush Hog are the two most well known and most well respected makers of rough cut mowers. LP is probably a distant third.

I have not owned mowers made by Bush Hog or LP, though would shy away from neither.

SDT
 

Russell King

Well-known member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
4,607
977
113
Austin, Texas
You may be better off looking at flail mowers for the grass. It will cut it into smaller pieces and not leave windrows


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

SMKK

Member

Equipment
B2650
Aug 22, 2019
109
4
18
Lachine, QC
You may be better off looking at flail mowers for the grass. It will cut it into smaller pieces and not leave windrows
Flail mowers are pretty expensive in comparison to a rotary cutter, at least what I have seen at the dealers. I agree they will provide a better cut but you are paying for that quality. I bought a Landpride RCR1260 which handles tall grass and weeds well but is only up to 1” woody material. If you aren’t mowing down small trees and heavy brush it works well. It is really solidly built and the few large branches and rocks I have hit don’t seem to have caused any significant nicks under the unit. I have about 7-8 acres that I mow with it and so far so good.
 

Oliver

Active member

Equipment
L2501, JD 3520
Feb 2, 2011
526
120
43
Preston County, WV
You may be better off looking at flail mowers for the grass. It will cut it into smaller pieces and not leave windrows


Flail mowers are pretty expensive in comparison to a rotary cutter, at least what I have seen at the dealers. I agree they will provide a better cut but you are paying for that quality.......

You might at least consider a flail.
I have an old 5', beat up, medium/heavy duty rotary cutter that came with the property which I only used once before the rear wheel bracket finished breaking off. It's probably too heavy for my tractor anyway so I decided to replace it. My decision came down to an LP 1860 or Woodmaxx FM62 flail and I fretted over which one to get for a month. On one hand almost everyone seems to use a RC for cutting tall grass and weeds so there must be a good reason. And SMKK is correct a RC is generally cheaper than a flail. At $2,400 the flail was about $400 more than an 1860.
What I didn't like about the RC was the overall length of the unit, both when maneuvering around my small pastures as well as the space it'd take storing the thing under my carport. Also they seem to leave the long grass and weeds which were cut just laying there on top.

Anyway I finally decided and went with the FM62 and have been using it over the last week. So far I really like using it because of its compact size and while the cut isn't finish mower quality it's better than the rotary cutter and the weeds are mulched up to much smaller pieces.
https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42831
 
Last edited:

Cathy Liebchen

Active member

Equipment
KUBOTA L3901, MX5800, MULE PRO FX, MULE PRO FXT
Flail mowers are pretty expensive in comparison to a rotary cutter, at least what I have seen at the dealers. I agree they will provide a better cut but you are paying for that quality. I bought a Landpride RCR1260 which handles tall grass and weeds well but is only up to 1” woody material. If you aren’t mowing down small trees and heavy brush it works well. It is really solidly built and the few large branches and rocks I have hit don’t seem to have caused any significant nicks under the unit. I have about 7-8 acres that I mow with it and so far so good.
we have to back over things to cut them down and cut field edges and a flail can't cut in reverse. We have both an LP 1860 and 1872 and they have been quite durable, and we are hard on things
 

sheepfarmer

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3560, B2650, Gator, Ingersoll mower
Nov 14, 2014
4,440
654
113
MidMichigan
we have to back over things to cut them down and cut field edges and a flail can't cut in reverse. We have both an LP 1860 and 1872 and they have been quite durable, and we are hard on things

A solution to those spots with a flail is to lift it up, back into or up to the problem spot and then lower the flail and chop it down. Can do a bit at a time. Works well on wild rosebushes and getting into corners. I have my flail offset to the right and can cut right up to and along the fence. Taped a stick onto the bucket of my FEL so I wouldn't get TOO close.
 

D2Cat

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
12,903
4,270
113
40 miles south of Kansas City
I guess no one told me my flail would not cut in reverse. I just leave the mower in the same position all the time and just back into or under pine trees, weed or whatever, and when I pull out the flail cuts as good as just driving over it.
 

Oliver

Active member

Equipment
L2501, JD 3520
Feb 2, 2011
526
120
43
Preston County, WV
A solution to those spots with a flail is to lift it up, back into or up to the problem spot and then lower the flail and chop it down. Can do a bit at a time. Works well on wild rosebushes and getting into corners. I have my flail offset to the right and can cut right up to and along the fence.
This is exactly what I do.



I guess no one told me my flail would not cut in reverse. I just leave the mower in the same position all the time and just back into or under pine trees, weed or whatever, and when I pull out the flail cuts as good as just driving over it.

Interesting.... I never tried this as the manual cautions that mowing in reverse can damage the mower. Maybe as long as you don't press the roller into an object such as a stump it doesn't hurt?



Thanks for all the reply's. I picked up the RCR1860 with clutch. I didn't put it on yet hope to get it installed this weekend and let it rip.
Congratulations, that's the one I'd buy for a 25hp B or L. I hope you post back with pics and your initial impression?
 

D2Cat

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
12,903
4,270
113
40 miles south of Kansas City
Oliver, yes I am careful about backing into brush or under trees, especially if there is more than brush under there. I have a HST so it makes it pretty easy, and I'm always looking back as I go back. But I don't ever remember raising the mower to back under, then lower it to pull out.

Practice by starting out is something a couple feet tall in an open space. Just back up 15-20' with the mower set for going forward. Then stop and pull forward over the same spot. What you'll see is material cut just the same as if you only went forward.

I'm pretty sure the caution would be to NOT smash the roller into a tree truck.

However I have 3 flails. The first one I bought was a 6 footer and seen a tough life. I had to do some repairs to be able to use it, but the roller still worked fine.

Folks get scared of the price of a new roller. A simple, less costly option is to go to a truck driveshaft repair shop and have them build a tube and weld to your ends.
 

PaulL

Well-known member

Equipment
B2601
Jul 17, 2017
2,098
1,106
113
NZ
I think the flails inside run "forwards". So if you hit a stump or something the spinning of the flail will lift the whole mower up.

If you're going backwards and hit something you'd hit it with the back of the flail, the spinning of the flail would pull the mower down into the ground, and therefore dig it in harder.

So I can see why you wouldn't want to hit something going backwards. But if you're careful it's probably fine.
 

dlundblad

Member

Equipment
G5200, L2501, ZD1211
May 16, 2009
503
10
18
IN
Not sure on the model numbers, but check CL and FB Marketplace. I***8217;ve seen 60***8221; LP rotary cutters sell for 6-$800 in like new condition. People buy them in the dealer packages and have no use for them I guess. I want to say they are $1500-$2000 new?

One day, there was a $400 Bushhog brand 60***8221; cutter. Sold in like an hour. Lol.

Nevermind. Just saw you bought one.