Kubota L 295 DT

A

ABruce

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L295dt
Jun 23, 2016
22
0
1
Armstrong BC
I was working my tractor a little too hard today and the tie rod pulled right out of the shaft. They must be original as their are no grease nipples on them. They are shot. The one end is M20 by 1 rh thread I think the other end is left hand thread. I can not find a listing anywhere for a left hand thread one for sale. The threads are too bad to see for sure. My plan is to buy two new ends put them in the shaft and braze them in place. The brass should replace the missing threads. If I ever need to get them apart I could but honestly if they wear as well as the first set, they will out last the rest of the unit. Any advice on getting a set of them?
thanks
Bruce
 
North Idaho Wolfman

North Idaho Wolfman

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Napa carries tie rod ends, they should be able to match them up.
 
A

ABruce

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L295dt
Jun 23, 2016
22
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1
Armstrong BC
Thanks, I have been thru Moog and TRW books no one seems to have a metric 20 by 1 they are all 20 by 1.5 I am still searching
I appreciate the response.
 
Z

zuric

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L2050DT, B7000 grey mkt. ! Workbull 202 Massey,650 John Deere, 3444 Int.
Feb 12, 2017
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6
Ava Mo.
Buy a tie rod coupler, weld it on the shaft. thread in the new matching tie rod end, job done.
Just be sure the tie rod matches the socket. Measure diameter of socket top and bottom, or the existing tapered tie rod .
MOOG has a nice calculator, plug in your figures, gives selection available.
Will it work/last ?
Old mechanic taught me this in 1974. F-150 4WD, 30,000 miles. Pulled a tie rod stud out bouncing across a pasture after a hammer-headed old cow. New tie rod 'assembly'..one piece..was available ONLY from Ford..about 150 bucks. Lot of money, those days.
Cut rod, welded new coupler on, threaded in new tie rod..about 20 bucks. Lasted 15 years..till I sold the truck. Hauled a lot of cattle at 70 miles an hour, pulling a 16' trailer....
I would be dubious about brazing them..as you discovered, lots of pressure on those ends.
 
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D

D2Cat

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Zuric's suggestion is a good fix. You weld it correctly and it'll last as long as the original, if not longer.

When you weld a round shaft don't just cut it off and weld it to the other part.

Grind back a ways, like 3/8" to 1/2" depending on space, 1/2 the diameter of each rod. Do this on both parts to be welded. Chamfer the edges to get good weld penetration all around. Then match them up and weld. I'll post a sketch.
 

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zuric

Member

Equipment
L2050DT, B7000 grey mkt. ! Workbull 202 Massey,650 John Deere, 3444 Int.
Feb 12, 2017
42
0
6
Ava Mo.
D2s' welding pic is good stuff.
I use couplers, tho..hollow, threaded pieces. Would be best to turn the old rod down to a slip fit, if possible.
Lacking that, chamfer, tack, line up the coupling, and burn rod ! The beauty of it all is..you are no longer forced to buy proprietary...read: (stupidly expensive parts).
They probably save 5 bucks by making a 1 piece unit.. leaving you with hundreds of dollars repair bills when it fails.
 
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