L245DT Pop Quiz - Oil fitting size query

John RHR

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Equipment
L 245 DT (emeritus) L3902
Oct 11, 2013
43
28
18
Lake County, Calif
Folks -

Progress, progress... Getting a dribble of fuel out of the injector pipes, cranks fine, some white smoke - haven't yet fiddled with hooking up the glow plugs - all three have those wire bail connectors, but there isn't any wire coming to them, nor can I see where it might have been or would be.... So, back to the ign sw... No button for the glow plug "on" but the dash glow plug and the key switch are intact.

None of this has a fiddle to do with the stated issue.... Cranking it over and wondering if I had oil pressure was quickly resolved by the pool of oil under the beast. There is a missing plug or fitting on the right side (as sitting in the seat) opposite the starter side. It's about halfway up the block toward the back on the side of the block. I've got a good pour coming out, so.... sumthin' in missing. With the bucket and all it's kinda hard to get in there, and my light isn't good. My parts diagram gives me a poor picture and a part number - I don't know what size the plug hole is or what kind of thread. Looks to be about 1/8" pipe thread - if it were a chevy... which it ain't. Is this a metric pipe thread, or is it one of those banjo type fittings with a copper seal washer? I don't know what to go look for because I don't know what it looks like, and the illustration on the parts blow up is just to pixeled out from a microfiche scan. I really think I can get a fart or a start out of this today, if I can get the oil leak resolved.

Ideally, I'd like to plumb a mechanical oil pressure gauge in there. Any other advice on starting a long dormant engine would be appreciated. I've got fresh fuel and a filter, wanted to get it started and warmed up before I change the oil and coolant after I take care of some punky hoses...


TIA,

John
 

85Hokie

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John,

gonna guess - 1/8" BSPT .........NOT NPT.....
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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On the right side of the engine there are no threaded oil galley plugs, there is only a driven plug.
Can you post a picture of the exact location?

The fix for those is a plug or tap the hole and put a pipe plug in there.

They are not metric, all of the threaded plugs and fittings and pipes will be BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper) Same thread size just a different pitch.
 

D2Cat

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John you say, "So, back to the ign sw... No button for the glow plug "on" but the dash glow plug and the key switch are intact."

The glow plugs are activated (when wired) by turning the ignition switch counter clockwise for up to 45 seconds/1min. The wire comes from the ignition switch, through the glow plug indicator that you see through the hole in you dash, then to the first GP, then from the 1st to 2nd GP, and from the 2nd to the 3rd.

You also mentioned you want to get the engine warmed up before changing the oil. Since this tractor has been setting for an extended period I would suggest to change out the oil now, even though it runs cold. Let it drip for a day if it make you feel better, but get clean KNOWN oil in the engine. It may save you much grief latter on, just to save the cost of an oil change.
 

John RHR

Member

Equipment
L 245 DT (emeritus) L3902
Oct 11, 2013
43
28
18
Lake County, Calif
Folks -

I have a 1/8 NPT plug and it is WAY too big. Here's a pic of the hole in question. The parts book says it takes an expansion plug. Any ideas?

 
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Russell King

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Jun 17, 2012
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I recall reading a few threads that sounds a lot like your problem. I couldn't find any of them though so you may have better luck than me.
I recall that they just ended up installing a plug into the hole. If you can get the plug from the dealer I would go that route.


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John RHR

Member

Equipment
L 245 DT (emeritus) L3902
Oct 11, 2013
43
28
18
Lake County, Calif
Folks -

Well, got in there and cleaned things up for a better look, the hole is not tapped and takes a small expansion plug - not available locally. My Father in Law came and took a look see and we measured the hole. He turned a small tapered plug out of a 7mm bolt and we hammered that in place - so far, so good. I haven't gotten the engine to start yet, but with the valve cover off, I am getting oil, and the top end under the cover looks clean, for the most part. I was expecting far worse.

With discovering that leak and fooling around, I just about ran all of the oil out of it, so, following an earlier suggestion here, I went ahead and changed the oil and filter. After I get her to start, I hope, I will run some motor flush to top things off and change the oil after she's run for a bit. I also purchased an oil pressure gauge that I will plumb in for general principles.

I am going to post other progress and queries in a new thread. I do thank all of you for your help on this newfoundling.....


John
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I will run some motor flush to top things off and change the oil after she's run for a bit.
DON'T DO THAT!
For what little benefit you would get out of the flush, it's more likely to damage parts like bearings and rings.
I 100% do not advocate the use of motor flushes! ;)
 

John RHR

Member

Equipment
L 245 DT (emeritus) L3902
Oct 11, 2013
43
28
18
Lake County, Calif
Well - On the motor flush - I wasn't going to run the full amount, I was thinking about less than a pint in 6qt. I wouldn't load the engine. What damage would it do? I could see if the oil was too thin and the engine were really working, but I'm talking letting it run at ~1000 1200 or so, no load, until its all warmed up, then draining the oil and installing a new quality filter and oil. Your feedback is heartily encouraged...

John
 

85Hokie

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Well - On the motor flush - I wasn't going to run the full amount, I was thinking about less than a pint in 6qt. I wouldn't load the engine. What damage would it do? I could see if the oil was too thin and the engine were really working, but I'm talking letting it run at ~1000 1200 or so, no load, until its all warmed up, then draining the oil and installing a new quality filter and oil. Your feedback is heartily encouraged...

John
The motor flush will do JUST that, loosen stuff that otherwise may not hurt a thing, as NIW said - it can also hurt on the other parts that are real expensive to replace and get to!:)

I talked to a guy that did automatic trannys......said one of the worse thing you can do to a tranny is back flush it .......I know this is not the same as flushing the oil, but the premise is the same, all the loosened stuff ends up in places you really do not want it to end up!

Other way of thinking about it - 'spose there was a pill that would "flush" your arteries of all the bad stuff......all that loosened stuff would end up where?:D:eek::)

If you want to flush it - run a "good" oil in it and allow it to heat up (run it through the paces) then drain and replace with a better oil.:)
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Yep just what 85Hokie said.

Run some good oil in it and then replace the filter and oil shortly.

These engines don't normally sludge/gum up unless someone really was lax on oil changes.
 
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