Hydraulic Chute Deflection on Front Mount Snowblower

DustyRusty

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23S
Nov 8, 2015
4,956
3,695
113
North East CT
If there are any nut and bolt assemblies, put them together with anti-seize, so if you have to take it apart in a few years, it will come apart easily. Also, check the Alan head lock screws on all of the driveline bearings, and don't forget to grease the chain and the auger shafts. Buy a bunch of spare shear pins, because when you need them, it will always be during a heavy snow storm!
 

kenbx1860

Member
Mar 31, 2015
38
2
8
canada
I have the hydraulic rotation on my front mount and have always adjusted height site manually, after reading these posts I will stop at princess auto and go go with the electric option. Don’t change chute much but will more often when easier and would be a fun project
 

DeepWoods

Active member

Equipment
B2650HSDC Woodland Mills WC68 Wood Chipper
Apr 10, 2019
325
247
43
Bigfork Minnesota
If there are any nut and bolt assemblies, put them together with anti-seize, so if you have to take it apart in a few years, it will come apart easily. Also, check the Alan head lock screws on all of the driveline bearings, and don't forget to grease the chain and the auger shafts. Buy a bunch of spare shear pins, because when you need them, it will always be during a heavy snow storm!

We think alike. Every nut and bolt had anti seize, the set screws got threadlock applied, and I bought six each of the shear pins for the auger and fan impeller. The assembly manual said to apply lubricant (unspecified) to The plastic ring under the chute so I used grease. I found out tonight from a YouTube video from GP Outdoors that this will be to stiff in the cold weather and needs to be removed so the hydraulic motor does not overheat from to much friction from the stiff grease. So that will be the first thing I do tomorrow morning. If all goes as planned i should be totally assembled by tomorrow night. I have taken pictures, but I left the camera at the shop, so they will have to wait.

I did assemble the subframe and quick hitch on a table, but I have a hoist directly above the table to get it to the floor once completed. I also noticed on the GP Outdoors video that his steel drive shaft was rusted, so I will be applying a coat of paint to the bare steel drive shaft. I still have to check the fluid level on the front gearcase to make sure it is full, and I ordered a oil can with a spout to lubricate the chain as needed. I'm not quite sure what to do with the two large nut and bolts that the manual says to torque to 440 foot lbs. The smaller ones that needed 165 foot lbs. was all this old man could muster. I've had rotator cuff surgery on both shoulders so they ain't what they used to be. I think some cheater bars and some help from the neighbor are in order.

I want thank all of you for the suggestions given, it helps with the decision making process.
 

DustyRusty

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23S
Nov 8, 2015
4,956
3,695
113
North East CT
I would suggest that you don't paint the shaft, but coat it with grease, since the grease will help prevent the rust, but even if it does rust, it will be easier to remove the rust when you have to service the bearings, than it will be to remove the paint. The shaft has tight clearances to the bearings, and paint will make it more difficult to remove the shaft through the bearings. You could spray the shaft after it is assembled with PDRP (Cosmoline), since it is easy to remove the Cosmoline with some gasoline, should you need to. The Cosmoline will prevent rust.
If you want to use a grease on the chute plastic ring, consider Dow Corning silicone grease, or you could even paint it with never seize. I have never put anything on mine, and it has been working fine without any lubrication for the past 10+ years.
 

bird dogger

Well-known member
Vendor Member

Equipment
Kubota B2650 and lots of other equipment
Feb 24, 2019
1,569
1,409
113
North Dakota
The assembly manual said to apply lubricant (unspecified) to The plastic ring under the chute so I used grease. I found out tonight from a YouTube video from GP Outdoors that this will be to stiff in the cold weather and needs to be removed so the hydraulic motor does not overheat from to much friction from the stiff grease. So that will be the first thing I do tomorrow morning. If all goes as planned i should be totally assembled by tomorrow night. I have taken pictures, but I left the camera at the shop, so they will have to wait.
DeepWoods, you'll be ready for the snow in no time now! Will be fun to see your pics when you get caught up. Regarding the grease thing: Depending on how your chute is attached to the main blower frame, I've found that leaving the clamp (or whatever is used) a little loose will let a little snow between the moving parts. As long as the mating surfaces are smooth, free from rust and debris, the snow acts as a perfect lube and along with the vibration of the blower its all that's needed to let the chute rotate freely. You can also rob the cupboards and steal a can of spray cooking oil and give the joint a squirt or two. If you stop or leave the blower sit outside for a while it'll keep those parts from freezing together until the vibration separates them again. When I park my blower in the spring I try to remember to separate the chute and give those surfaces a wipe of grease to stop from rusting over the summer. A quick check and cleaning before winter use and its ready to go again.
Regards,
David