Jump start contacts

hope to float

hope to float

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Has anybody fitted contacts to the outside of their tractors for connecting jump leads to and how would you do it?
It's such a nuisance having to take of both side panels to get to the battery terminals for a couple of seconds use and of course there's that spinning fan inches away. L3450GST
 
SidecarFlip

SidecarFlip

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Think I'd be installing a new battery instead. Having to contimually jump it to start it is death on your alternator. Battery is a whole lot cheaper. Just say'in.
 
Dave_eng

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Anderson connectors are the way to go.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=anderson...refix=anderson+co,aps,177&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_8_11
Used on electric forklifts, golf carts and many other applications.

They are available in many sizes.

Connect one end to your tractor battery and then plug in any thing you want to power.

I use one for an electric winch. When I get one, I will use the connector for a diesel pump from my bulk tank.

There are no exposed contacts to short out.

The Amazon.com booster style cables mention in an earlier post would need an Anderson plug to take power from it.

Dave
 

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vic gerbasi

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i put anderson plugs on my L3300 grill release is a pain to get off and open did this right after buying a new battery now new battery and probably will not need to use the plugs for a long time but Ill be ready
 
hope to float

hope to float

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GreensvilleJay

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Whatever you choose be SURE they're GOOD for 300 amps . Whimpy 50A contatcts WILL melt,potentially shorting IN the casing, THEN the 'fun' begins......
 
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200mph

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hope to float said:
This is exactly it! I didn't know if such a thing existed. So all I need are battery clamps that will take 2 battery cables, a couple of feet of cable, a hole saw and a suitable place to locate these. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Basically yes. They are simple install. Used them on drag car to charge batteries between rounds.

They also make a version that looks like the welding plugs shown in one of the other threads that can be panel mounted, but then you have to have dedicated ends on the charger/jumper wires. Thus reducing flexibility with what can be attached.
 
N3BP

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I run those connectors on my B7200. It is extremely handy for powering my winch, as well as jump starting anything. I trickle charge through this connection as well, which is nice since I no longer have to open the hood to do this. I used the 175A grey connectors and #2 flexible stranded "welding" conductor. It's a very short run and it is not fused or on a breaker and is wired directly to the battery. The battery is a HD marine style, so it has two auxiliary stud connections. It powers the 9K winch with ease. This type of setup should be standard equipment on tractors IMO.
 

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GeoHorn

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All you really need is ONE contact ... the positive one. The negative can be clamped almost anywhere on the frame.
That positive one should be guarded by an insulating cap, etc. such as used on thread-protectors, or such.

Aircraft use a AN-2552 plug which can carry many hundreds of Amps but that would also require additional mods to the jumper cables so wouldnt work for most of us that dont already have aircraft cables.
 
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N3BP

N3BP

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I wouldn't clamp to the frame. I assume most machines are like mine and the frame is painted from end to end. You will get a very poor connection this way.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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Most 'riders' have several LOUSY connections between battery -ve and starter ground. A real PITB,so I run a REAL ground from battery to starter motor mtg bolt.
Also, some real good machines have engine mtd on rubber isolators and while they have a gnd wire to connect engine to frame...special care is need to be SURE it's in GREAT shape....
Using very high current Anderson connectors is the best solution.
 
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