how to check compression on glow plug ports

gssz · Nov 9, 2019

I have been troubleshooting slow starting on my recently acquired BX2230 and so far I have eliminated several possibilities.

Until now I had zero experience with diesel engines, but despite the confusion I love the simplicity of the old diesel tech.

I checked the compression the other day and I would like to double check the correct procedure. Should I remove all glow plugs when checking compression on the cylinders? Or should I just remove the glow plug that I am testing the compression on? I think when I tested the second cylinder, I forgot to reinstall the glow plug on the first cylinder.

Thanks,

George S

whitetiger · Nov 9, 2019

Remove all three glowplugs and test compression.

Roadworthy · Nov 9, 2019

Removal of all the glow plugs will allow the engine to spin faster resulting in higher, more consistent, and more accurate readings. While working on the engine you may wish to check valve lash at the rocker arms. If the spacing there is set correctly it may improve your starting.

gssz · Nov 9, 2019

whitetiger said:
Remove all three glowplugs and test compression.

Thanks! I will do it again then

Good practice.

gssz · Nov 9, 2019

What a difference! with the glow plugs removed, all three cylinders measured right at 580 PSI, but they all jumped up to over 600 after I stopped cranking. Is that normal?

whitetiger · Nov 9, 2019

Sounds like you may have some fluid in the cylinders. Hook a bungee cord to the manual fuel shutoff arm on the injection pump to hold it in the OFF position.
Crank the engine for approx 20 seconds to clear the cylinders through the glow plug holes.
Re-test your compression.

If the fuel shut off in not OFF, your injectors are spraying fuel into the cylinder while doing your compression test.

gssz · Nov 9, 2019

would a zip tie do it?

RCW · Nov 9, 2019

whitetiger - -

This is gssz's other thread regarding this tractor:

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43657

I just wanted to make sure you saw the other part of the conversation. You may be able to give him some great advice on what to do.

North Idaho Wolfman · Nov 9, 2019

gssz said:
What a difference! with the glow plugs removed, all three cylinders measured right at 580 PSI, but they all jumped up to over 600 after I stopped cranking. Is that normal?

My thinking is your using a less than stellar compression tester, but your numbers seem fine and dandy, move on.

gssz · Nov 9, 2019

RCW said:
whitetiger - -

This is gssz's other thread regarding this tractor:

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43657

I just wanted to make sure you saw the other part of the conversation. You may be able to give him some great advice on what to do.

WhiteTiger already helped me on the other post

. I started a separate one for compression testing to narrow down this issue.

gssz · Nov 9, 2019

whitetiger said:
Sounds like you may have some fluid in the cylinders. Hook a bungee cord to the manual fuel shutoff arm on the injection pump to hold it in the OFF position.
Crank the engine for approx 20 seconds to clear the cylinders through the glow plug holes.
Re-test your compression.

If the fuel shut off in not OFF, your injectors are spraying fuel into the cylinder while doing your compression test.

Thanks again! I unplugged the wires from the fuel pump and zip tied the valve. Even after cranking several times for a total of about a minute I still see something puffing out of the glow plug holes and muffler. Is that still diesel? Should I keep cranking until I see nothing puffing out of the glow plug holes?

RCW · Nov 9, 2019

gssz said:
WhiteTiger already helped me on the other post . I started a separate one for compression testing to narrow down this issue.

Gotcha - - Sorry for the tangent. Just wanted to make sure he saw the whole thing.

Good luck getting it figured out!

Now get back to work on it. I'm really interested in your work and findings!

whitetiger · Nov 9, 2019

gssz said:
would a zip tie do it?

Yes, a zip tie will work, I am cheap so I reuse a bungee cord.

One little problem I see in your picture is you have the shutoff arm tied in the ON position. The solenoid pulls the arm counterclockwise to shut off the engine.
Also, make sure the solenoid is allowing the shutoff arm to fully return to the ON position after it shuts off the engine.

gssz · Nov 9, 2019

whitetiger said:
Yes, a zip tie will work, I am cheap so I reuse a bungee cord.
One little problem I see in your picture is you have the shutoff arm tied in the ON position. The solenoid pulls the arm counterclockwise to shut off the engine.
Also, make sure the solenoid is allowing the shutoff arm to fully return to the ON position after it shuts off the engine.

That explains why it puff more every time I crank it! Let me try it the other way

I try to include pictures because the'll be worth 1000 words to the person trying to help me, and another 1000 words for the next few people who will be as lost as I am.

gssz · Nov 9, 2019

Thank you again whitetiger. With the fuel shut off and the lift pump unplugged, I puffed all the diesel out and the compression was still 580 PSI on all 3 cylinders. I installed a stronger battery and it cranks faster and starts in about 7 to 8 seconds. If this would be brand new, would it start in 2 or 3 seconds after holding the glow plugs on?

My initial goal was to get this to start "by the book" in Houston before I take it to colder weather (where it would have a harder time starting). Or am I expecting too much from an indirect injection system? The next step would be to replace the fuel lines, which look like a project. I thought there is one line coming from the tank to the first fuel filter, then lift pump, then second filter and injectors. When I looked under there, it appears more complicated.

whitetiger · Nov 9, 2019

gssz said:
Thank you again whitetiger. With the fuel shut off and the lift pump unplugged, I puffed all the diesel out and the compression was still 580 PSI on all 3 cylinders. I installed a stronger battery and it cranks faster and starts in about 7 to 8 seconds. If this would be brand new, would it start in 2 or 3 seconds after holding the glow plugs on?

My initial goal was to get this to start "by the book" in Houston before I take it to colder weather (where it would have a harder time starting). Or am I expecting too much from an indirect injection system? The next step would be to replace the fuel lines, which look like a project. I thought there is one line coming from the tank to the first fuel filter, then lift pump, then second filter and injectors. When I looked under there, it appears more complicated.

How does it restart when the engine is warmed up?

Did you check that the fuel shut off is fully returning to the RUN position after the solenoid releases it, approx 7 seconds after the key is turned off?

Do you open the throttle 1/3 before cranking cold?

Your tractor has the "second" fuel tank on it, fuel runs from the large main tank into a small cup-sized tank, then to the first filter. The return and vent hoses also connect to the second tank and main tank. Kind of an,,,,,Ummm, shall we say interesting arrangement.

Take the fuel hose off of the injection pump, hang it into a clean container and turn on the key to run the electric fuel pump. Do you get a full pulsing stream of fuel from the hose after it has been pumping for several seconds?

If yes, you do most likely do not have a fuel supply problem. Time to either test or replace the injectors.

gssz · Nov 10, 2019

Thanks!

Even after running the tractor for half an hour, it still takes about 10 seconds to start, even if I hold the glow plugs on for 10 to 15 seconds.

The fuel shutoff seems to return all the way, but I will double check. I am thinking to spray some grease under that rubber cover on the fuel shutoff to make sure it slides easily.

How do I open the throttle before cranking cold? Is that the lever that controls the RPM? I usually have it in the slowest position.

Yeah - I discovered the second fuel tank

I envisioned a single line coming from the fuel tank to the first fuel filter... NOT!

I will test the fuel flow to the return line tomorrow. I wish I had read this post before ordering several fuel lines earlier... I can call them tomorrow to put the order on hold as it takes Coleman 2 to 5 days to order the stuff anyway. However, the manual says the lines should be replaced after a few years so maybe it's good to do that anyway.

D2Cat · Nov 11, 2019

"How do I open the throttle before cranking cold? Is that the lever that controls the RPM? I usually have it in the slowest position."

Yes, that is the lever that controls the RPM. If you have it in, or near, the off (idle) position the injection pump is not getting fuel, or very little fuel.

gssz · Nov 11, 2019

whitetiger said:
How does it restart when the engine is warmed up?

Did you check that the fuel shut off is fully returning to the RUN position after the solenoid releases it, approx 7 seconds after the key is turned off?

Do you open the throttle 1/3 before cranking cold?

It looks like this could be a potential culprit! The solenoid does not seem to be returning easily... this evening I had to pull it back to get it all the way back. Not sure if it's because it's colder today, but I will take that off and see if I can grease something to make it slide out easy. I will order one if it doesn't seem to operate well after greasing it (if that is even possible).

Thank you for the note on the throttle... for some reason I thought it had to be at the beginning because they want it there before engaging any implements.

gssz · Nov 12, 2019

Sprayed a bunch of electric parts cleaner in the solenoid (without removing the rubber parts that are glued on there), and black liquid came out. Then I sprayed some silicone lubricant and shook it around, and now the solenoid opens and closes with a crisp click. This is the original Denso solenoid. The first time it started at 5 seconds (hurray!) but the second and third time it was 7 to 8 seconds (with solenoid opening and closing nicely). We actually have cold weather in Houston today so I will try it a few more times tonight. If it starts consistently in cold weather within 8 seconds, I may not do more than change the fuel lines that I ordered (will change the fuel pump as well while I'm at it).

how to check compression on glow plug ports

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