L345DT in need of TLC

biffog

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L345DT & B5000
Sep 30, 2019
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Clane, KE, Ireland
Hi All, first time to post here, but I have learnt a lot over the years from the forum already.
I picked up a very old grey market B5000 7 years ago, did it up and it has served me well but was a bit limited. I took the plunge and picked up a 1982 L345DT with a FEL and a good Sekura cab. Its not in great shape but is running and have used it for a couple of months before putting it in the shed for the winter to work on it.
when I got it home first I changed all the fluids and filters, but found the previous owner had decided a fuel filter was not needed and could be replaced by a straight piece of copper pipe, as you do! I Drained the tank, put on a new filter and housing. It started a lot easier after that but it is smoking a bit. The valves need to be adjusted also but I'm wondering should I just replace the injectors? they are $44 from Kumar's on ebay and they must have got crap into them. What I drained from the bottom of the tank and the fuel line was black gunk. Or is the fact the engine is running suggest they are ok?
Second question: the hydraulic speed adjuster knob under the seat was stuck, wouldn't turn. Initially there was no 3 point linkage on the tractor but I picked up some massey parts and got it working. The lift are are very jerky, so I tried turning it with a vise grip and broke off the handle. I have the parts diagram but its not clear how this hydraulic adjuster works. Can I pull the 5 or 6 bolts on the faceplate and lift the whole assembly out to free it up? I'm hoping I can weld the knob back on?

there are lots of other jobs to do, the 4 wheel drive is not working, leaking all from the left front axle case etc. etc.

I'll post some pictures when I have enough posts. I'm in Ireland by the way.
 

D2Cat

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Biffog, welcome to the forum. On the injectors I'd suggest buying for a dealer. Kumar injectors can be less then desired. You can purchase them, install them, think your fuel problems are over....only to still have similar problems. Then end up with Kubota injectors, which requires you to remove the ones you just purchased and start over! Maybe others have had better experiences with aftermarket injectors.

The injector 17391-53000 is $120 from Coleman's Kubota...so maybe that price difference would be worth the hope you'd get good working parts from aftermarket.

Those are pencil injectors and require a special tool to get them popped out of the head. That tool is $150, but I made one a coupe of years ago. I fabricated it from a piece of stainless steel in my bone pile and attached to a slide hammer.
 

biffog

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L345DT & B5000
Sep 30, 2019
23
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1
Clane, KE, Ireland
D2 Cat thanks for the reply, I saw your tool, I assume this is to get the injector to lift out once it has been unbolted?

From another thread I picked up the injector part no. to be 70000-65400, which replaced 70000-65209, they are $68 from Messicks -or have I got the wrong p/n, maybe V1501 vs V1501DA?

I haven't got an workshop manual for the engine, not sure if it even exists.
 

D2Cat

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Yes, you remove the fuel lines (of course!) then the bolt that holds the clamp. Then the tool has to fit under the lip of the injector and it is popped straight up. Some come up fairly easily, and some require a few more pounds on the slide hammer.

If you have an old injector, or your new ones on hand before you begin pulling them you can have a better idea of how/where to set the hooks one the tool.

I went to the Kubota Tractor Corporation site and entered the L345 tractor and got the number I listed. It may be wrong, or has been updated.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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D2Cat... I'll bet you hit L3450 by mistake when you looked up the part number. ;)
I can't tell you how many times I've done that. :eek:

The L345 takes the 15271-53020, same screw in injectors as the B7100's D750.

This is our favorite place to get these injectors, yes D2cat's favorite too!

https://oregonfuelinjection.com/shop/heavy-duty/kubota/new-injector-kubota-15271-53020/

They are well worth the extra price difference!

If you have any issues getting them sent to you send me a PM and I'll be happy to help out.

 

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North Idaho Wolfman

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I haven't got an workshop manual for the engine, not sure if it even exists.
You can download the WSM, Work Shop Manual (aka service manual) off Kubotabooks.com.
 

biffog

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L345DT & B5000
Sep 30, 2019
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Clane, KE, Ireland
That’s great thanks, Im in California next week for work, will get them shipped to the hotel. Do these need any setup done when replaced, apart from torque?

Wolfman, thanks for the link,I had the tractor WSM already, I notice there are some engine specific manuals for the newer engines, but non for these older ones. I’m an engineer, not a mechanic, so I know the theory but not the practical stuff., especially since I work in robotics, not many diesel robots...
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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That’s great thanks, Im in California next week for work, will get them shipped to the hotel. Do these need any setup done when replaced, apart from torque?

Wolfman, thanks for the link,I had the tractor WSM already, I notice there are some engine specific manuals for the newer engines, but non for these older ones. I’m an engineer, not a mechanic, so I know the theory but not the practical stuff., especially since I work in robotics, not many diesel robots...
If you bring your old ones with you, you can send them back and get the core charge taken care of at the same time.

Nothing special beside torque them in place and bleed the air out of the injection lines.

Now as far as the speed adjustment, you might be better off getting the replacement parts for it on the same trip, get ahold of Lance (007kubotaguy) he'll probably have the cover and adjustment bolt in one setup so it would be a quick repair.

As far as the three point jumping that's either a feedback rod adjustment issue or a fluid quality issue, not the speed adjustment.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Thanks again, what’s the core charge about? Does the injector contain hazardous material?
HAHAHA, No they collect up the old injectors when they get enough of them they rebuild them.
 

D2Cat

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Biffog, North Idaho Wolfman is correct. You do not have pencil injectors which means you don't need the special tool and the injectors will cost less.
 

Russell King

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On the speed adjustment the rod into the case is probably rusted to the hole. Spraying with PB Blaster or your favorite rust penetrant in Ireland may have helped break it loose but too late now.

The handle usually slips onto the rod and pins to the rod (as far as I know). I doubt you’ll be able to weld it back together so you may be better off getting the new (old) parts when you are in the states.

Not sure if the new dealer parts are available for that tractor so that is why 007kubotaguy was suggested, he owns a lot of old tractor parts.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

biffog

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L345DT & B5000
Sep 30, 2019
23
0
1
Clane, KE, Ireland
Hi Guys, got the injectors, haven't fitted them yet but saved a lot of money. Managed to fix the hydraulic speed adjuster, removed the entire plate, it freed up pretty easily, I welded a small piece of extra stock on the end of the shaft and refitted the handle, worked out fine.

I have another question, there is a small hydraulic fluid leak around the PTO shaft, seemed to be coming from the plate with 4 screws, bearing case according to the manual. I ordered a new gasket but when I went to remove the cover its not coming off easily. Is there a trick to getting this off? the black seal is tight to the shaft and I don't want to damage it. Also the diagram in the shop manual does not match the one in the parts manual

shop manual PTO.JPG

parts manual PTO.JPG
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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It should come right off, the seal and the tight fit will make it a little tough gently pry it from two sides straight out. ;)
 

007kubotaguy

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Hello
This is one of Kubota’s bad designs. You must remove the PTO shaft to replace the seal. To remove the shaft you must split the tractor. You have a snap ring on the front of the shaft that must be removed before the shaft will come out. The best thing to do is look at a parts book to see all the parts.
Good Luck Lance
 

biffog

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L345DT & B5000
Sep 30, 2019
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Clane, KE, Ireland
007kubotaguy - thats what I was afraid of... I'm only trying to replace the gasket behind the plate- the black seal looks ok, do I still need to pull the entire shaft?
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Sorry for the bad info, I didn't look deep enough into it.

If you can get the plate to side out just a little you could use a syringe to inject a little RTV into the gap then bolt it back up.

Thanks
To lance for setting this and me straight! ;)
 

biffog

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L345DT & B5000
Sep 30, 2019
23
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1
Clane, KE, Ireland
Yes I can get it out about half an inch, i will try and clean out the old broken gasket, cut the new one in half coat it with gasket weld and slide it in from each side...might work, or else I have made a small leak into a huge job:(
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Yes I can get it out about half an inch, i will try and clean out the old broken gasket, cut the new one in half coat it with gasket weld and slide it in from each side...might work, or else I have made a small leak into a huge job:(
I've actually seen some of the gaskets made exactly like that, try and use gasket material the same thickness as the original, or none at all, If it was a thin gasket RTV (silicone) will work fine and dandy! ;)