Rebuilding My Tree Damaged Kubota BX24

Shelby04861

Member
Jul 13, 2019
66
2
8
Thomaston, Maine
So, I posted a basic question the other day, but now I am getting into the basic tuneup and rebuild of a bunch of the BX24 I bought. Below are some photos of the before, and I will try to add photos along the way if people are interested. Essentially this was a $4500 bargin find that I scooped up because I was in the market. It's a 2008 BX24 with just over 600hrs and one careless owner before me. I went front to back and made a long list. Off to the Kubota dealer I went to place my order. I should mention that I went all out because the budget allowed for it, but this tractor works as is. I also want to advise people to not shy away from the dealer, thinking that prices would be more expensive. This was simply not the case. They were pretty much spot on compared with online prices. Sure, I had taxes, but I saved a small fortune in shipping for larger items like a complete new body front to back. Anyway, on with the damage photos. Also, you will notice that other parts were damaged and broken off, so they are missing altogether.


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Shelby04861

Member
Jul 13, 2019
66
2
8
Thomaston, Maine
So far I have removed the old top and side bonnet and replaced them. I chose to just break off the chrome emblems and use Gorilla glue to reattach them, as there would be no need to be removing them ever. On another post here, someone used heat to removed the gel decals. I gave it a try with my heat gun on high, pointed from the inside of my old hood until them were gummy enough to start peeling up. I tried to get the adhesive to come up with it. I also chose to use a low heat setting on my gun on the adhesiveside of the decals just to get them nice and sticky before applying them to the new hood bonnet. Ill buy new Kubota decals next time I am at the dealer. Did the 5 minute oil change as well. Not photographed was the damaged guage cluster. The impact was enough to break hour meter, and knock the needles off their posts. I was easily able to pull the cluster, and open it up and put everything back together on its place. I admit, it took many tries to put it back together and keep everything in place.


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Shelby04861

Member
Jul 13, 2019
66
2
8
Thomaston, Maine
Keep up the good work, it's looking a lot better.
Thanks. It is a good project and will be nice when it's done. On another note, for those that notice the lack of duct tape and clearer headlight lenses, you have a good eye. The headlights were actually broken in half and being held in place with duct tape. I was able to put it all back together with plastic weld which is available at auto part and hardware stores. The lenses were cleaned using Colgate toothpaste that contained baking soda as well.


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Shelby04861

Member
Jul 13, 2019
66
2
8
Thomaston, Maine
Well, only got a little done today. Kiddo wanted to go for a bike ride. I was able to remove the floor pan and begin to take parts off to remove the fender pan. I have all new body parts going in. I was pleasantly surprised that the new fender pan is made of metal.
I do have a couple of questions:
Do I need to remove the seat to get the fender pan off, or will I be able to make it up over it once I remove the small parts and ROPS?
The 2nd question is about the deck pan. The original bent one is a single piece of molded and painted metal. I placed an order for one of course. What arrived is two pieces. They both look very similar, if not the same. However, one is painted, while the other is bare metal. I was told the bare metal goes down first and then the painted one. Is this a change Kubota made to make the deck stronger? Did I accidentally get two of the same part, just one is painted? I took a photo of them in the bubble wrap tonight, so sorry for the dark photo. Thanks


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B737

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LX3310
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getting into the thick of it now, looking great!!

get new headlights :D
 

Shelby04861

Member
Jul 13, 2019
66
2
8
Thomaston, Maine
I may get new headlights and a new seat, but I wanted to save that last bit of cash in case I run into the unexpected. $140 for the headlights seems a bit pricey, but I went all out for the rest, so maybe I just will. The left and right center pillar pieces will both hopefully be here next week, and then I can replace the broken ones and the the broken throttle lever. The new center pillar section they sent me was broken also(the cast aluminum section). Thanks for the compliments!

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Shelby04861

Member
Jul 13, 2019
66
2
8
Thomaston, Maine
Tonight I was able to get the fender pan off the quick way. I just took a hammer and hit it, and it cracked to pieces rather easily. I was able to tap off the knobs and such. It is kinda tricky getting the bolts out of the left and right grab handles. I have one last one to go at this point. The seat and ROPS were rather easy to remove. Just a pin for the whole seat frame, and the 6 bolts and wires for thr ROPS. I had to be creative to mount the original tailights on the new pan. Kubota skipped that part. I chose to cut the taillight section out of the old fender and mount it behind the metal to screw into. It works great and you cant tell without looking(not sure of other creative ideas. I noticed the 12vdc outlet is smaller than the hole as well. As someone mentioned in another post, it looks like I need to order a fan and seal for the shaft to transmission. Looks like I'll clean up and call it quits for tonight!


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North Idaho Wolfman

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Before you go any further you better replace the fan on the hydro, or you're just going to be wasting money on a tractor that will burn out the HST.
 

Shelby04861

Member
Jul 13, 2019
66
2
8
Thomaston, Maine
Before you go any further you better replace the fan on the hydro, or you're just going to be wasting money on a tractor that will burn out the HST.
Yep! Going to order the fan and the two shaft seals tomorrow. That fan is toasted! I have a bunch of small parts in a bag in addition that have to be replaced. Need to replace the HST linkage tierod next to the fan as well. It is worn out and pops off easily

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North Idaho Wolfman

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Cool, :cool:, just wanted to make sure you didn't skip by it. ;)
 

PaulL

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B2601
Jul 17, 2017
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Looks real good. I have a BX2350, which looks to have the same body panels as you're installing. Every single plastic panel on mine has at least one crack or bit broken out, and every light is gone. Tractor's mechanically sound though, and turns out I don't really need the panels.

I will soon replace it with a B2601-1, but for the last 3 years it's been a great first tractor.
 

Shelby04861

Member
Jul 13, 2019
66
2
8
Thomaston, Maine
Looks real good. I have a BX2350, which looks to have the same body panels as you're installing. Every single plastic panel on mine has at least one crack or bit broken out, and every light is gone. Tractor's mechanically sound though, and turns out I don't really need the panels.



I will soon replace it with a B2601-1, but for the last 3 years it's been a great first tractor.
That is how mine is, so I replaced all of it because the rest is mostly sound. I plan on picking up the engine hoist tomorrow morning so I can pull the engine to replace the hst fan and boots. Then I'll be able to start putting the body back together again. Also picked up a LED light bar for the ROPS


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Shelby04861

Member
Jul 13, 2019
66
2
8
Thomaston, Maine
Update for tonight. Status....better than it was. Got the engine hoist on and undid the radiator and engine mounts. Lifted the engine with no issues. I was able to get the CV shaft apart, and of course the bearings fell out and into the grass, as to be expected. Anyway, the new fan is on as well as grease packed boots for each end. Replacing the fan isnt hard, it just sucks as much as everyone says. To add insult, while bolting the shaft to the plate on the engine, one of the bolts snapped. Well, out came the engine again, welded a nut on, and backed out the broken one. Dont tighten them too hard is my advice to others. Anyway, called a buddy over and he helped me play catch up. We got the engine back in, reattached all the wiring and fuel lines, bolted things back up and made sure it runs and works, and it does. We managed to get the rear fender pan on as well as the ROPS. My advice for the fender pan is to unbolt both seat mount arms in front. That will aid in sliding the pan into place. Hooked up some lights and tossed some knobs on. Calling it a night at this point! I think I'm doing alright for doing this in the backyard.


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