l1500dt (l175) clutch wont disengage

njblanco10

New member

Equipment
l1500dt, l175
Jan 6, 2018
14
0
0
Larsen Bay, Alaska
I recently split my new-to-me l1500dt and replaced the clutch plate, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. It has been performing flawlessly for the past three weeks.

Today when I started the tractor, I was unable to put it into gear because of grinding. After inspecting the clutch pedal linkages and springs (checked out ok), I took off the clutch inspection plate, and sure enough it would not disengage when I pressed the clutch pedal.

I have read in another thread I should try to start it in gear and get it up to 7-8 mph before stomping the brakes and pedal. Would anybody advise against this?

I should mention before the problem arose, I did spin the tires a little bit inadvertently on some gravel. I don't know if this would have anything to do with it.

Do you guys have any suggestions before splitting this thing again to check out why its not disengaging? Thanks for your time fellas!

- Nick Blanco
Larsen Bay AK
 

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In Utopia

Active member

Equipment
L175 FEL
Apr 21, 2013
582
87
28
Utopia,Tx/Pasadena,TX
What you are doing is what's usually the cure for a sticking clutch.
It often takes several attempts to free it.
Not sure what I'm seeing in your second pick, but it appears to be oil or grease. This area should be clean and dry. It may have something to do with it being stuck, much like glue.
 
Last edited:

D2Cat

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
12,901
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40 miles south of Kansas City
Your second picture indicates excess grease on the pressure plate.

Many tractor owners think the grease fitting on the side is to apply grease to the throw out bearing. Grease applied there does not get to the throw out bearing, it only greases the sleeve that holds the bearing. That grease prevents the sleeve from sticking on the shaft, and was on the older tractors since they were designed for rice patty work and often got wet. There was also a drain plug at the bottom of the bell housing to let water out!

You'll probably have to spit it to clean it up (and determine if something has failed) or it will keep doing the same thing.
 

njblanco10

New member

Equipment
l1500dt, l175
Jan 6, 2018
14
0
0
Larsen Bay, Alaska
Thanks for your guys replies. I very much appreciate it.

What about hitting the inspection opening with an aerosol brake cleaner, while also having the bell housing drain plug open? This could potentially clean up some of the excess grease.

Would you advise against what this guy does?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zx2BjvTwan0

You guys are bad ass dudes for helping me out. No mechanic around these parts.

- Nick Blanco
Larsen Bay, AK
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
28,289
4,853
113
Sandpoint, ID
I wouldn't do it, you could do more damage than good.

If the clutch housing was not sealed after repair and has gotten moisture in it you'll need to split it, manually clean the rust and corrosion off of all parts, and reassemble it and seal the clutch housing.

Post some pictures if you do split it to make sure your on the right track.