Sub-Compact Backhoe subframe/mount dimensions

dcurtis

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Greetings,
I'm in the process of designing a sub-frame/rear mount on a custom tractor and would appreciate measurements and dimension to build a mount for a Kubota sub compact backhoe (like the BH77). I'm hoping someone with a BX, B or L or similar would share pics and measurements so I can replicate the mount on the tractor (widths,heights, diameters, metal gauge, etc). Info on the 3PH as well.
Yes, if I bought the BH first, I could go from there, but not convinced I won't build my own BH but would like something similar/compatible .


Thanks
 
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GreensvilleJay

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While I'm all for bodging and building, it'll be cheaper and easier to buy a BH than make one ! Unless you've got a FULL metal fab shop, a COMPLETE hydraulics shop and , well, a LOT of time on your hands.
It took me 2 months of design with wood, to 'dial in' the almost correct dimensions for a 'simple' front end loader for a garden tractor. I had kid at metal fab shop use 100,000$ worth of machines to punch holes,shear, bend, etc. all the parts and he welded them up too!
If you look around long enough you can probably find a 'used-abused' TLB that could 'donate' the BH, then sell the TL.. to recoup some of the coins.
Not saying you can't do it..but it IS a lot of design and $$$ parts.
 

Lil Foot

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No dimensions, (tractor is 150mi from here) but here are pics of the B219 FEL subframe for a B7100.
 

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dcurtis

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you are absolutely correct but where is the fun in designing & fabricating? A metal shop would be awesome but I have had good luck with makeshift jigs and poor man's tools. (and i can try my plasma cutter). Worse case I hit a machine shop for heavy welding or drilling.
 
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dcurtis

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thanks... The loader ties into the sub frame... It's the pins and hole spacing I'd like. The issues I'll have is that the tractor has a hydraulic motor on the rear end in the way on one side. If I go under I'll have very little clearance or very little frame on that side. In theory, there is no frame on the rear at the moment (eg: I don't have to use the existing frame) so I can sup-it up to 1/4 frame (or bigger) from the wimpy 1/8 channel. Once I know the width of the pin holes I will try to incorporate the 3ph, BH mount and HD frame.
 

Fordtech86

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Few pics of the subframe on a L series with the BH77


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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dcurtis

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Few pics of the subframe on a L series with the BH77


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
good pics, thx. What gauge is the sub frame? 3/8"? 1/2? Any chance you'd do some measuring? (distance between brackets, distance between pin rest and pin hole, height from ground, how far the top hole is offset from the lower pin rest, width of top hole sleeve) - it would be greatly appreciated.
 

Fordtech86

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good pics, thx. What gauge is the sub frame? 3/8"? 1/2? Any chance you'd do some measuring? (distance between brackets, distance between pin rest and pin hole, height from ground, how far the top hole is offset from the lower pin rest, width of top hole sleeve) - it would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, but it will probably be tomorrow. Have to go to work today, but off the rest of the week.
 

Fordtech86

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This is width of subframe from outer boss on both top pin holes about 21 7/8.



Top pin boss about 1 5/8



These are the back itself



From center of bottom pin to center of top pin hole about 12 1/2

1 1/4 pins

Trying to eyeball the offset from top pin hole to bottom pin is about 3 1/2

Subframe is 1/2 inch


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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benneys123

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Kubota 3000 Dt
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While I'm all for bodging and building, it'll be cheaper and easier to buy a BH than make one ! Unless you've got a FULL metal fab shop, a COMPLETE hydraulics shop and , well, a LOT of time on your hands.
It took me 2 months of design with wood, to 'dial in' the almost correct dimensions for a 'simple' front end loader for a garden tractor. I had kid at metal fab shop use 100,000$ worth of machines to punch holes,shear, bend, etc. all the parts and he welded them up too!
If you look around long enough you can probably find a 'used-abused' TLB that could 'donate' the BH, then sell the TL.. to recoup some of the coins.
Not saying you can't do it..but it IS a lot of design and $$$ parts.
Not what he is saying, he wants dimensions for the subframe portion to locate the 4 point hook up
 

benneys123

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Thanks for your post, if you guys have any other tid-bits, like how long is the 1.25” sleeve?, I was looking at my BH today, and it doesn’t seem to be 3.50” of offset between top slot and bottom pins
 

torch

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While I'm all for bodging and building, it'll be cheaper and easier to buy a BH than make one ! Unless you've got a FULL metal fab shop, a COMPLETE hydraulics shop and , well, a LOT of time on your hands.
I'm a little late to this party, but I beg to differ. I built my own FEL in my garage off and on in my spare time in about 3 weeks (I did spend a month or two before that researching, measuring and designing in CAD). Materials cost was less than 1/2 the cost of purchasing an aftermarket FEL (OEM Kubota FEL is made of unobtanium).

I do have a home machine shop, but the only things I made on the mill and lathe were the hydraulic block, pins and my fancy SSQA mechanisms. Everything else could be done with as little equipment as a hand grinder with cut-off wheel, power drill with hole saw (or drill press or even torches) and a welder, although a band saw or chop saw would be handy.

I have a plasma cutter, but many metal suppliers will cut your order of sheet metal for the bucket to size or you could go the cut-off wheel route. 1" DOM tube is perfect for the pivot bushings and nicely fits 1" bar stock for pins. I drilled the grease passages in the pins in the lathe and mill, but a drill press would also work. Failing that, it's even possible it could be done with a hand-held drill and a vise. The style SSQA mounts I built are not neccessary for most applications, a traditional lever style would be fine and that could be made with the above tools or purchased as a unit.

I bought the hydraulic cylinders at Princess Auto. Same with the hoses and fittings, although I bought the joystick FEL on eBay since PA didn't have one with the features I wanted.

If I hadn't stumbled upon a great deal on a Kubota BH, I might have made my own one of those too. A little more complicated, with higher materials cost due to the additional hydraulics but I had done some preliminary sketches and am sure a BH could be made with the same tools and skills. You can even buy pre-engineered plans online (I have no affiliation with that vendor, it's just an example).

Now, my advice to the OP is get the backhoe first, build the subframe to match. Unlike SSQA, there is no standard for BH dimensions, they vary wildly between makes and models.
 

Fordtech86

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I have a 2002 L3000 Dt, I appreciate your post, recently bought a BH75 and need to make the subframe. I don’t know how to get around the axle yet?, does it only attach plate to plate with the angled portion of the ROPs
It attaches to the ROPs at the rear, has a little bracket that attaches to the axle housing, then attaches to the loader mounts at the front.

Not sure if these will help any, this is for a BH77 and the later L series then yours.



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E6A8E868-5232-4876-843F-37BE9150AF12.jpeg

Im not sure of the differences between the BH75 and the 77. I recall another thread about this, not sure if it was a BH75 or 76 tho. I will try to find it and post back.
 
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Fordtech86

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Not much info here, but post 3 seems to suggest the bh75-77 are very similar and subframe mounts similar on the basic L series.

The other thread I was thinking was for a newer L series