G 2160 Fuel pump

Wayne, I don't have manuals for that model. But here's what I would do.

The fuel pump should be grounded, so check that.

There should be a positive conductor to the fuel pump, probably red. It may go through a couple of connections to one of the fuses, or directly to the key switch. I would eyeball and finger the conductor(s) to find out how it is supposed to get power.

More than likely a connection is loose or corroded. It is not a complicated machine so a visual inspection and voltmeter should get you there.

When you get a schematic (from a WorkShop Manual [WSM]) the other thing to check is the safety switches, because it sounds like they have been jimmied possibly.

You've got a diagram, that's good news!

Another tip then. Make a copy of the diagram. Take a highliter and mark the conductor(s) from the pump to the battery. Should show where the fuse, key switch, etc., are encountered as you later trace the physical conductor from the pump. This will simplify things from the spaghetti ball of the entire diagram.

Used to have one of those, rear discharge. Loved most of it. Hated the bagger and the power steering. Mine had KRA.

This is going off of memory, so bear with me....and verify with the WSM.

Anyway....the fuel pump is fed directly from the key switch through the red/white wire. Black wire grounds the pump. Look for power on both sides of the 10A fuse. It should be battery voltage. If ok, you'll have to go through your wiring. If voltage at the fuse is low, likely suspect ignition switch. Check voltage at the fuel pump with the pump connected by back probing the connector, key on of course. If voltage is low, you have a wiring issue-corrosion, etc somewhere in the harness. If zero voltage you likely have a broken wire somewhere.

Lots of times the harness connectors will get corrosion on their pins and cause issues, so sometimes when I've got one exhibiting weird issues, I will wiggle the connectors. A lot of times stuff starts working--and that's a dead giveaway. If that's the case, decouple the connector, clean each of the pins, apply some dielectric grease and then slide the connector back together. These machines are aging so be careful with the plastic parts as they tend to get a little on the brittle side with age.

Diagram shows a 3A diode in what I think is that circuit. Is that the fuse or something different?

Click to expand...

Diodes in this context are there to allow current to flow in one direction only. They fail either fully open or short-circuited. They should not be a fuse.

The lamp bulb can be checked out of circuit by applying the ohmmeter leads to the bulb terminals. Resistance says that the bulb is probably OK, an open says it is burned out.

Since neither headlights nor fuel pump work, I would head first to that fuse. If the fuse is OK, then look at the path between the fuse and the battery.

Check the fuse with your ohm meter. Just unplugging and reconnecting the fuse may improve the connection in it shows good.

Good news is that you got the diagrams to post. Too small for me to read, unfortunately.

No matter. I would place the headlight switch in the ON position and the key switch in ON also. There should be a connector for the headlights close to their housing that you can check for 12V. Careful not to short the 12V to ground with the probe. If you can't get in there with the probe then use a paper clip or bare wire to get into the connector shell. Negative probe to ground or battery neg. If it is not +12V, or the bulb, then it can only be the neg conductor.

The reason I would start with the headlight is that if the problem is a connector, you might kill two birds with one stone.