Engine Temp Gauge

Same drill with my B2601.
Plowed Snow hard yesterday for a few hours, gauge moved bit less than a quarter way.
(Block Heater plugged in prior, then warmed up for 10-12 minutes before pushing snow)
In the summer, blazing heat, working with loader, needle indicator my go up slightly more.

Never thought much of it, just that this Bota runs cool, good idea with the infrared thermometer.
On that note, have not had any issues, she runs fine.

on my L3300 the gauge needle has not moved from day one. i check coolant level and no changes from first day I have owned this machine for more han 20 years bought brand spanked new

85Hokie said:

Something that most may not know....
for thermal efficiency of a diesel comes in at 90-100C ....or 194-203 F....
at this coolant temp - and oil is up to temp, the engine is burning off all those things that can cause contamination of oil. ***8230;

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Someone has given out some incorrect info. A hot engine block or hot water temp is not what burns off contaminants. Hot combustion temps is what helps keep contaminants reduced. The combustion temp has very little to do with coolant temp indication being cold. The reason the coolant temp is low may be due to a thermostat which is not working...or is missing. Also, there is a possibility that the gauge itself is incorrectly calibrated or that the sending unit has failed or is otherwise incorrect or that the wiring between the sending unit and gauge is faulty.

85Hokie said:

...Cold running diesels are not a good thing - but as long as the oil reaches the temps high enough to burn off contaminations, that will stop problems in the future.

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Hot oil does not "burn off" contaminants. Hot oil also will not stop problems in the future regarding the low coolant temperature. Hot oil will scorch and create soot, ash, and fail to properly lubricate (and the temp gauge doesn't indicate oil temp anyway.) Engine oils begin break-down above 220-F, and rapidly do so above 240.
Cold oil (below 160) will allow water vapor to collect and contribute to internal corrosion and sludge and that is why engines should avoid short operating periods that fail to get the oil above 160 for a prolonged period. (Most consider anything less than an hour to be too short to drive water out of the oil. The water is a product of fuel-burn. Burning fossil fuel results in carbon-dioxide, carbon-monoxide, carbon, and water-vapor. Most of that goes out the exhaust but a small amount will leak past piston rings and end up in the crankcase. During cool-down the water-vapor may condense on sump walls and become entrained into the oil. Next engine operation should drive that water out of the oil if the engine is operated long enough and hot enough.

Hope that helps.

(Ground the temp gauge lead and see if it indicates HOT...is how most gauges are quickly tested. Unplug the wire at the sender and use a jumper wire to ground it out. Do not leave the ground connected but for a short time to prevent damaging the gauge. If the gauge warms up... then consider a sending unit problem and replace it.)

My b2601 gauge hardly moves in cold weather. If I partially block radiator with a piece of cardboard then the needle moves to about 1/4 mark. Been that way since new

Steve67 said:

My b2601 gauge hardly moves in cold weather. If I partially block radiator with a piece of cardboard then the needle moves to about 1/4 mark. Been that way since new

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Same drill, gauge to a 1/4 since new, she runs fine

Before writing this off as normal because some tractors behave this way, please consider the following.

1. Verify actual coolant temperature. (Thermal gun, thermocouple, etc...)
2. Verify temperature sensor has the correct output based on temperature.
3. Verify the thermostat is functioning correctly and not failed open.
4. Verify temperature gauge is functioning correctly.

If the actual coolant temperature is above 180F there isn't anything to be concerned about unless you're concerned there isn't adequate needle movement on the gauge.

If the temperature is below 180F, the thermostat is suspect and should be checked/replaced. If this is the case a preliminary check of thermostat function can be done by starting with a cold engine. Open the radiator cap and watch for coolant flow. If flow occurs, even if minimal, replace thermostat. I like to test thermostats, buy removing and testing in a pot of water along with a candy thermometer. Heat the water slowly while noting when the thermostat begins to open.

Sorry, but I don't have the appropriate manual to provide temperature sensor output for you.

Good luck and report back what you find.