Grand L Cab Tractor on sidehills

I'm strongly considering trading my two current tractors for an L4060 cab tractor. Right now I have an MX4800 with R1 tires, rears loaded, and rim dish pushed all the way out. I also have an L2501 with R4 tires, loaded, with 3" spacers on each side at the rear. Both perform well on side hills, some of which are probably near the limit.

I've wanted a cab tractor for years to escape the hot, the cold, the bugs and bees, and the pollen and dust. However, with much of my flail mowing work being done on side hills, I've always worried the cab tractor would have a higher center of gravity and be less stable.

Examining the L4060 reveals the 13.5 gallon fuel tank is below the cab instead of up high above the engine like on my other tractors. A full tank means almost a hundred pounds sitting low. The R4 tires are pretty wide, and I would load them for more low-down weight. Perhaps some spacers are available for this tractor as well? I don't know.

How do you guys think the performance of a cab tractor is on side hills compared to an open station? Is is more, less, or similarly safe to an open station in the event of an actual rollover?

Thanks in advance.

sheepfarmer said:

...The manual which includes the 4060 says the widest rear stance with farm tires is 60 inches. If you add spacers it should help to offset the cab.

You would like the L60 tractors. Really nice features, transmission quieter, cab nicer than the ones on the B2650 series. Way sturdier than the other L tractors and certainly than my B tractor. I laughed the other day when I went to start it and turned the key and all it did was print out the message " HST pedal not in neutral position" . My size 9 heavy boot was accidentally resting on the pedal, and indeed it shouldn't have started, I would have backed over an implement. That feature was not one I knew about. . Sorry mine does not have a cab and a mid pto, was too Scotch to go for a cab when I got it.

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Thanks sheepfarmer. At one point I had an L4310 open station (2002 model) which was a large L series and the "luxury" platform. At the time, the luxury features included automatic glow plugs, full metal cowlings around all the controls and seat, nicer seat with seatback angle adjust and storage pocket on the back of the seat, better headlights with high / low beams, etc. It was a glideshift which I liked but not good for creep situations on steep slopes. The 60 series like you have is worlds nicer than that L4310 - I like the intelli-panel and the added info it provides, along with the nicer HST+ trans, etc.

BAP said:

I don’t know about the L4060 on hills, but I farmed about 25 miles south of you for 30 years, and we operated many different cab tractors in hills that would scare the sheet out of most people and never rolled one. Set your wheels out and use caution and a cab shouldn’t make any difference.

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Thanks BAP. I suspect it will be OK, but I'm still a few days away from even seeing if we will make a deal.

RCW said:

I’m familiar with the types of dam slopes you’re mowing.

The dams I deal with are STEEP, and the pictures you posted a while ago are similar. Never mowed one, and not sure I want to....[emoji15]

You’re on the edge already, as you say. The lower fuel tank is a plus, but where are HVAC equipment located?...could be a minus. First thing I thought of wasn’t spacers, but duals....

Don’t really have a recommendation, but I certainly understand the inquiry....

Best wishes in your endeavor; be curious how you evaluate it.

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Thanks RCW - I found out Bro-Tek does offer 3" spacers for the rear, and even 2" for the front. I've never run front spacers and heard mixed reviews on how front spacers work. Might be a bad idea to run them with a loader fully loaded.

I've given thought to the weight at roof level...AC blower, ducting, evaporator. Cab radio, HVAC controls, work lights, wiring, etc. I currently have the factory fiberglass canopy on my MX...it is pretty heavy to install; plus I ran some work lights to the other edges. Hasn't impacted it's sidehill stability though. I assume the extra metal and glass structure is what adds the most weight. Interestingly, the Grand L has a pretty beefy rear end compared to even the MX...for example, it has dual external lift cylinders compared to the MX's single internal, and actually lifts more on the hitch (450 additional pounds). The base tractor itself weighs about 300lbs more than the MX. However, I suspect the MX's larger loader significantly outweighs the L4060's loader, and the MX's loader rear tires probably also carry more weight than loading the 4060's rear tires. However, I think adding 6" of rear track should make the stability pretty equal to the MX.

BMeyers, thanks for your post. I agree that you become more comfortable over time. I've become very comfortable with slopes that others say they would never get on in a million years. If I end up with this 4060, I'll just take it slow and easy until I get a feel for how the machine handles on the sidehill.

FordTech, I think you are right - the overall weight up high is probably inconsequential compared to the weight below.

Yeah, BAP and I even do business at the same Kubota dealer.

I've never done front spacers, but I've done 2" and 3" on the rear of certain tractors. Always been a good experience; the Bro-Tek ones are very nice quality. As for the front, I'd be concerned about added stress. Somebody said a wider front stance is of no value because the axle pivots...yet clearly a wider stance is better than, say, an old tricycle tractor.

Likely, I'd just buy rear spacers.

Thanks D2 Cat. I hope to never experience a rollover but if I do I want to be as safe as possible. Sounds like the cab would offer good protection. In my case, a rollover would mean taking a good tumble, multiple rolls. I always wear my seat belt on these slopes.

lunasdude said:

Agree with most everyone here about the spacers on the rear and not the front.
I have a tiny BX and they are Tippy as hell because of a small narrow footprint and instaling 2" rear spacers made a HUGE difference!
I don't feel like i'm going to tip over everytime i run over a stick or some crap now!
Also I agree with everyone on no front spacers, everything I read said not to do it for the same reasons.
1. won't help much as the front is a swing axle, not solid like the rear.
2. will put much more stress on the front axle with the FEL.

Good luck!

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Thanks! My first Kubota was a standard B-series...a little bigger than a BX, but not vastly so. I installed 2" rear spacers and it made a big difference.

Jchonline said:

I discussed Brotek and other aftermarket spacers with my Dealer. He said to be careful as if Kubota doesnt offer them specifically then they will not warranty damage caused by installing this spacers. This could be indirect such as axle breaking, rim issues, etc.

Not saying you should not do it, just dont expect to get it warrantied.

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It's a fair point, and adding spacers does place additional load on the rear axle due to a lever effect. It would be something to consider if you had an extremely heavy implement on the rear hitch.

However, I wouldn't think twice about it - my safety is going to be more important than tractor warranty. Furthermore, I wouldn't expect any issues from installing these spacers. Thousands of tractors already have them installed and they have not experienced any failures as result.

Treckerzeug said:

Hello,

Would kubota allow twin rear wheels on the L series?
In switzerland where conditions are indeed extreme you won' see a tractor or selfpropelled loader wagon without them...

Regards

Robert

A sample

https://www.hofheld.de/heuernte-am-hang/

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No, Kubota would not allow that. That looks like a nice, stable tractor in your link. We have some terrain similar to that around these parts.