B6000 PTO hydraulics downward force

Oregonconversion

New member

Equipment
Kubota B6000
Mar 29, 2013
4
0
0
Portland, Oregon
When I put the tiller up it goes up fast and smooth. When I put it down it goes under its own weight and I can not get any hydraulic downward force. Is this normal or did I buy it broken?

Also I am missing a fender and headlight(the remaining one does not work), and has a rino seat cover. Is this normal? :p;):D


Overall great tractor and works perfect for its weight class!

Cheers!
 

Rob

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Equipment
B6000DT / B7100DP /B8200DT/L225/Globe PTO Chipper/Lewis Backhoe/huxley TR66
Nov 22, 2009
679
4
18
Leafy England....
gravity lower, but you can adjust the rate of descent , small adjustment bolt under seat.

rob
 

hodge

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
John Deere 790 John Deere 310 backhoe Bobcat 743
Nov 19, 2010
2,849
367
83
Love, VA
Typical 3 point has no down force.
This^- your tractor isn't broken. Most tractors don't have downforce on the 3 point.
The missing parts, of course, aren't normal. You can post in the wanted section here, or go to West Kentucky Tractor Parts (wkytpstore.com), or search ebay.
Some folks upgrade the headlights, since the stock ones are pretty poor. You can search for posts- quite a few have done it.
 

Oregonconversion

New member

Equipment
Kubota B6000
Mar 29, 2013
4
0
0
Portland, Oregon
ok thanks guys, sounds like I need some weight to till my hard packed dirt. Or maybe a PTO reverser? I have switched the blades so they push the tractor forward. :rolleyes:
 

BadDog

New member

Equipment
B7100D TL and B2150D TLB
Jun 5, 2013
579
2
0
Phoenix, AZ
Or maybe a PTO reverser? I have switched the blades so they push the tractor forward. :rolleyes:
That may be. I was recently surprised to learn that the 6000 has a PTO rotation backward to most everything else. There are threads here discussing the options.

As for tilling hard soil, you may be best served by running a buster or chisel plow through to break it up first, then run the tiller. Even without counter rotation, that may be enough to allow you to accomplish your goals? However, running a tiller backwards may not be good for it's longevity, depending on how it was constructed.
 

BadDog

New member

Equipment
B7100D TL and B2150D TLB
Jun 5, 2013
579
2
0
Phoenix, AZ
That I don't know, it depends on how it was made, and how it was designed to take torque/thrust/pressure loads. I've got a feeling that's something you'll need to determine yourself, or maybe contact manufacturer is possible.
 

freewheel3

Active member

Equipment
MX5000DT LA852, BX1800D, B6000DT, B6200HSTD, B7100HSTD, L185, T1700HX, ZD1211
Mar 9, 2013
334
33
28
Alberta
ok thanks guys, sounds like I need some weight to till my hard packed dirt. Or maybe a PTO reverser? I have switched the blades so they push the tractor forward. :rolleyes:
Huh??? Switching the tines does not change the rotation of the tiller. Adding weight to the tiller will shorten its life span and is not the answer. You need to use a different type of implement to bust up that hard ground first, then till it.
Or, maybe water it down good and let it soften up. If you're going to try growing anything in it, you're going to have to add some better soil / compost to soften it up.
 
Last edited:

hodge

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Equipment
John Deere 790 John Deere 310 backhoe Bobcat 743
Nov 19, 2010
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Using the a forward rotation tiller on a tractor with a reverse-rotation pto, or vice-versa, would have the back of the tines digging in. Turning the tines around would allow the cutting edge to work. Changing the tines didn't change the direction, he made it work with the direction it was already turning.
 

skeets

Well-known member

Equipment
BX 2360 /B2601
Oct 2, 2009
14,094
2,755
113
SW Pa
Seems a common mistake a lot of guys make is they try to take a BIG bite first time through,, yes I was one of those guys too,,, start by setting it maybe an inch down and run it through, that will kick up all the sod and weeds,,, then drop it another inch or 2 and same thing again,, until you get all the way down,, and yes you aint gona do it in one pass!!! Depending on how large a plot your tilling you might really think about adding some things to the dirt, like grass clippings and LIME and sand,, If you are really interested send a large cross area sample to your agriculture center, state or local,, they will tell you what you need for the soil to grow what ever it is you want to grow and how to amend the soil,, Just remember all those adds you see with a tiller digging like a mole on speed are done in dirt that has been worked over many many many times.. Just MHO mind you
 

freewheel3

Active member

Equipment
MX5000DT LA852, BX1800D, B6000DT, B6200HSTD, B7100HSTD, L185, T1700HX, ZD1211
Mar 9, 2013
334
33
28
Alberta
Using the a forward rotation tiller on a tractor with a reverse-rotation pto, or vice-versa, would have the back of the tines digging in. Turning the tines around would allow the cutting edge to work. Changing the tines didn't change the direction, he made it work with the direction it was already turning.
Tines are directional. So the PO must have had them on backwards? Ahh, I see now. Thanks for the clarification. I do know that my B6000 with the factory S850 tiller turns in a forward rotation. No reverser on it.
 

Stubbyie

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Jul 1, 2010
879
7
0
Midcontinent
My experience is that even the best tillers are not designed to break hard virgin soil. I've seen them literally throw sparks trying a first pass on new soil. Can't be good on tines or gearbox.

Break with a single- or two-bottom plow or disk [harrow] first, even if you have to rent or borrow one for a half-day. Then use the tiller to finish working the soil. You don't want to pulverize it to dust.

In some of my "garden" areas I've had to wait on a rainy spell to make soil semi-manageable then use a backhoe to turn it over the first time. Then tilling gets easy going into the future. In this case soil amendments were necessary but paid off.
 

hodge

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John Deere 790 John Deere 310 backhoe Bobcat 743
Nov 19, 2010
2,849
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Love, VA
My experience is that even the best tillers are not designed to break hard virgin soil. I've seen them literally throw sparks trying a first pass on new soil. Can't be good on tines or gearbox.

Break with a single- or two-bottom plow or disk [harrow] first, even if you have to rent or borrow one for a half-day. Then use the tiller to finish working the soil. You don't want to pulverize it to dust.

In some of my "garden" areas I've had to wait on a rainy spell to make soil semi-manageable then use a backhoe to turn it over the first time. Then tilling gets easy going into the future. In this case soil amendments were necessary but paid off.
I agree. Break the ground in steps, instead of trying to till it right off.