no power to glow plugs

A

Adf

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B7200HST
Nov 23, 2019
46
5
8
Joelton,tn
no power at plugs, no heat at finger hole, previously was sporadic heat at finger hole and plugs would heat to start but no more. Wiring diagram shows nothing after key like a relay or a fuse only finger hole element.
Where do I start to get power back to plugs?
 
Roadworthy

Roadworthy

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I'm not familiar with the term finger hole element. If the circuitry is similar to my old Mitsubishi there's a series dropping resistor which also glows between the key and the glow plugs. Glow plugs are not generally twelve volt devices, 10.5 volts is more common. If your glow plugs are good (unknown to me) your resistor may have opened. It may not be burned out but the contacts between the wire and the terminal may have corroded or burned to the point there's no continuity, hence no voltage to the glow plugs. You could start there.
 
North Idaho Wolfman

North Idaho Wolfman

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He means GP indicator.

You need to start with removing the wires / buss bar to all the glow plugs and check them individually for resistance.

Then check voltage at the wire and to each side of the indicator.

Voltage to the glow plugs has 2 paths, one path is when the switch is turned backwards to the glow setting and that puts power through the indicator then on to the glow plugs.

The second path is when it's cranking, this path bypasses the indicator and send power directly to the glowplugs.
 
A

Adf

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B7200HST
Nov 23, 2019
46
5
8
Joelton,tn
interesting: I don't know how to read ohms and voltage but I did test power to glow plug with key turned to start position and there was power to the plugs which (I think) explains why it will always eventually start with long cranking times.
does it indicate that my ignition switch is bad?
 
North Idaho Wolfman

North Idaho Wolfman

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Adf said:
interesting: I don't know how to read ohms and voltage but I did test power to glow plug with key turned to start position and there was power to the plugs which (I think) explains why it will always eventually start with long cranking times.
does it indicate that my ignition switch is bad?
Click to expand...
More likely a bad indicator or wiring... get a simple test light.
Test in and out on the indicator.

The indicator is just an open air heating element power goes in and power goes out.
 
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Adf

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Equipment
B7200HST
Nov 23, 2019
46
5
8
Joelton,tn
Yes . That piece of equipment i do have and know how to use.
Thank you so much. It will be nice if its a simple fix
 
Last edited by a moderator:
A

Adf

Member

Equipment
B7200HST
Nov 23, 2019
46
5
8
Joelton,tn
North Idaho Wolfman said:
More likely a bad indicator or wiring... get a simple test light.
Test in and out on the indicator.

The indicator is just an open air heating element power goes in and power goes out.
Click to expand...
Tried testing in indicator posts and got no power. Tried indicator post on ingnition and got no power coming out when key turned to glow setting
 
North Idaho Wolfman

North Idaho Wolfman

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If you get no power out of the switch to the indicator when you turn the key in reverse, then yes your most likely issue is a bad ignition switch.
 
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Adf

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Equipment
B7200HST
Nov 23, 2019
46
5
8
Joelton,tn
Thanks for your help. Replacing the ignition doesn’t look too hard. I guess the steering wheel has to come off
 
Dave_eng

Dave_eng

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Adf said:
Thanks for your help. Replacing the ignition doesn’t look too hard. I guess the steering wheel has to come off
Click to expand...
No need to remove steering wheel.

See attached photo. Unscrew trim ring indicated by yellow arrow and pull out switch assembly from back of instrument panel. Remove battery ground cable first.

Dave
 

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Russell King

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Jun 17, 2012
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Just a caution to know what color wires attach to what post on the switch before you remove any.

If you can take pictures of the arrangement beforehand so you can see what you have. Kubota loves red wires and red wires with white stripes so take care on that. If your tractor lives in a dusty world then you may need to wipe the wires with a moist rag to be sure to see the colors.

I replaced mine on an old L185 this past weekend and the hardest part was getting the spade covers pulled back to the switch after attaching the wire. Hopefully Kubota has switched to a plug.

Also note there is a little tab on the switch that you have to get into a slot so it won’t rotate.

There is probably a plastic washer involved that goes on the side with the nut so it doesn’t dig in while being turned.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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