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U can eliminate the sol. by running a "hot wire" straight from the battery to the solenoid.. THAT will eliminate anything interfering w the sol. telling it to shut off..{other than a defective sol.} Why not change the lift/supply pump.?? I think they're only 30-40 bucks.. Does it chug chug chug...

The shaft n gear are keyed

U say the rack moves freely. but were concerned about the springs being broken.. In alot of cases, if the springs were broken, the rack would still move freely.. so thats something to check.. If the rack moves, it'll be easy to pull the pump.. THATS what I would do first.. If u have fuel going...

CAV/Delphi p#>> 9080-127

No theres no safety switch in the inj. pump.. If u have safety switches on your machine, the inj. pump has a shut off solenoid that trips & shuts the fuel off.. The pump is a slave to the sfety switches.. but not all cav dpa pumps have a shut off solenoid.. Does your machine shut off w/ the key...

Swap the injector w the 1 furthest away from it.. just to see if it follows the injector. If it does.. u found the problem.. If it doesnt.. it could be the pump.. or u might have a fuel FEED problem.. enough fuel to run 2 instead of 3..

Dave is on the right path.. IF the lift/supply pump is leaking into the crank case, its not delivering the correct amount of fuel pressure to the injection pump.. hence, no throttle response.. Either take it off & put AIR pressure to the inlet side & block off the outlet side w/ your finger &...

Arent u supposed to use that stuff only after taking out the thermostat.?? I could see it clogging a thermostat..{overheat}

The spec on the tightening torque is 30-35 ftlbs.. {VERY IMPORTANT} To loose & it'll leak.. to tight & it'll bind the control rack.. Good luck

IF U DONT have tension on that 1 roller.. & the rack slides free.. U broke something.. More than likely the control sleeve/segment.. Only way to be sure is to pull it down..

Your welcome.. The collapsed spring is due to a stuck plunger.. hence the stuck rack.{slider} U probably don't need a spring.. U need to unstick the plunger.. Now your getting "into" the pump.. U NEED TO keep everything from each cylinder separated from the next.. Good luck,

I know your nervous, but u shouldnt be.. not w/ all this help here.. Pull the plate.. & under it will expose the inj. pump & engine linkage.. Move YOUR throttle up top at the controls & look to see if its moving the pump & engine linkage in the engine/at the pump.. If it is, chances are the...

U might of had an injector blow a tip.?? hence the black smoke.. Def. pull the cover & see if the control rack is stuck.. Good luck

Re: G4200 ; Strange Bolts Injection Pump Id be happy to do it for ya.. Im in SC.. Check your prvt msg box

Are they the 5 sided bolts.?? Either way u need a special tool..

u said u loosened the injector "Return Line Bolts".. THEY do absolutly nothing to bleed the air in the STEEL LINES FROM the inj. pump.. U need to loosen the STEEL LINES FROM the IP & crank the engine.. Good luck

{I'm assuming here} but seeing its a Kubota, its "probably" metric.. The most popular sizes are 12x1.5 or 14x1.5mm just go to your garage, grab both those open end wrenches & see what size fits THE THREADS the closest, using the open end side of the wrench.. Then go to Home Depot/Lowes/ Local...

THATS an EASY way to check your fuel quality.. Take it out & remove the inlet banjo bolt..if the threads are rusted, u found a problem..

That sure sounds like air in the system.. Have u tried PRESSURIZING the fuel system.?? THAT'LL show u something.. either dry all the lines w. brakekleener, sprinkle baby powder along the lines & bowl assembly & put a few lb's in the fuel tank & look for the wet spots. OR just spray everything...

Did u use OEM orings.?? Did u replace the copper dv gaskets.?? If no, theres your problem. Did u TORQUE the dv holders.?? Using any old oring that "looks like" the right ones doesnt cut it.. & the dv gaskets are a "crush" seal.. if u reused them.. well, u get the idea.