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The front of those axle-brackets have a lock-nut (130) and threaded-pivot/bolt (110) which is adjustable to take up “slack” from the wear-point. That adjustment-bolt should be removable… if you want to allow an “escape” path for excess grease. (I’m presuming that the disc (030) will allow...

Can you please Point Us to those “easy electric brakes”…? I’d like to see ‘em.

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One grease that deserves recognition for this purpose is “Moly” grease, because it’s purpose is to lubricate sliding bushings and pins. (the reason it’s often recommended for the FEl pivot/pins.

OPEN A ZIP-LINE ATTRACTION. Seriously, “filling” that hole is a leap-ahead of the problem. FIRST thing to do is determine WHERE all that soil is GOING. It may be that an underground cavern (it IS Missouri)…or some hydrology-activity is causing this. Mining or drilling/exploration activity...

OMG Stop. Just stop.

Yeah Yeah Yeah. WE ALL know that. But if YOU have a NEW TRACTOR….with a Warranty….WHY would you try to “outsmart” the OEM and give ANY excuse for them to deny? GM had a series of autos in the mid-80‘s in which the Owners Manual specified 10W30 and when clever owners substituted what THEY...

Phantastic ….. a guy comes to the owners forum…..asks a simple question….and gets an answer guaranteed to violate the Owner’s Manual recommendation. (Hint: There is Only ONE oil-viscosity recommended for ALL / ANY temperature: See if you can discover it): Kubota LX2620 Owner’s Manual:

Makes no difference if EGR is involved or not. And with the information supplied by AOW… there’s no reason to believe synthetic will do anything for him or the tractor. Conventional is good. Has worked for thousands for decades and your tractor will outlive all of us on conventional. Any...

I would use what the mfr’r recommends. From a purely theoretical perspective….thicker (heavier viscosity) oils do not necessarily have lesser leaking tendencies. In fact, thicker oils resist “wiping” by the seals and at high operating speeds can be forced beyone seals and gaskets. It’s also...

After seeing the Tractor Mike video of the Ferguson that flipped on it’s owner…I came across this guy operating on a wet slope…. VERY Lucky Fellow: https://youtube.com/shorts/UDc_oUcF9_Q?si=Ix_Ypo9MwtVxwgKA

Fun to watch this early Kubota engine run: https://youtube.com/shorts/09K9fJP6hPQ?si=KGkWhYWoIjYiQItg

Remove it and take it to any muffler shop for repair.

If you don’t mind using a JOHN DEERE solution….here’s how the guys over on the Green Forum keep kids from messing with their tractors:

What model/size/capacity Campbell-Hausfeld are you hoping to replace? Did it meet your requirements? If so…why not simply repair it…? For a 60-80 gal 125 psi rated at 6 cu ft/min @ 90 psi You can buy a new motor for less than $150.…a new pump for less than $300.

Modern Kubota caps are plastic…. screwed onto plastic tank-necks.… the plumbing exiting the tank in the OPEN. How secure do you think a locking cap will be..? …and just exactly What Are You hoping to accomplish…? The mostly likely result will be a complication for the owner anytime...

How and Where can you get those meds without a vet Rx…??

In re-reading thru this thread I couldn’t help but notice “Abby” (a Nom de Pen…. if that in itself doesn’t raise question) … ”Abby” disapproved wife-beating but approved it for children. It’ a shame we can’t asker her about Teflon tape. Gasoila is a teflon-paste thread sealant for those of...

How many HOURS on that machine?

I believe an automotive near-copy and a welder is a Lot less money than what ”K” wants.