Search results

@joesmith123 If you want to use your torches to weld, try to bevel the edges you're joining, so the filler material can penetrate better, and use a smaller/tighter neutral flame. Also make sure everything is as clean as possible (bright shiny metal), including your filler rod. Be sure to remove...

Today is the last warmish day, so I stripped the formwork off (and stopped wet curing it)so it can dry out a bit before it gets cold tomorrow: I did have to patch a corner near the top link that I broke taking some formwork out earlier using hydraulic cement.

At this point, yeah, you're probably looking at a pretty complete rebuild. Was there lots of metal flakes in the oil pan? You should at least pull the cam/crank bearing and check them, but at that point why not put new ones in anyway? How did the rod bearings look?

Even a cheap buzzbox stick welder would be better than brazing, but the Hazard Fraught multiprocess welders are pretty damn good these days for a bit more money.

Oh duh, I confused compression with leak down test, my bad.

* All the rods bending the same seems unlikely to me, it sounds a bit more like warping from overheating? * Bent rods won't necessarily make it any harder to turn, they can just reduce the stroke a bit * Bent rods probably won't cause low compression, that's usually from bad rings or bad valves...

Torx, and ETorx only have 6 lobes. That's probably 12 point. Just try a 12 point socket or wrench.

It's unlikely to get the 28 days it needs for full strength. I can give it maybe 4 days before winter will keep the garage colder than the cement needs to continue curing (even with heating), but it should be strong enough to hold itself together by then, which is all it really needs to do. If...

Well, it survived the night, and the concrete set hard. Looks like the garage stayed in the mid fifties all night, and it'll be an unseasonably warm day today, so I'm feeling pretty good about this working out. I only managed 20 bags in the end, so 1000lbs of concrete, but I might be able to...

Got it all done a couple hours ago. I added some coupler nuts on the sides so I can bolt stuff on later and Wolfman made me paranoid, so I added the extra strap (there was some extra blocking that wasn't obvious already). Cranked the wood stove and the space heater and got the garage to 58F...

Halfway done, the PVC pipes were already planned. I'm also going to cast some coupler nuts into the sides so I could mount stuff on there later. Just got back with the second batch of concrete. My back hurts.

Gonna be (barely) warm enough to pour some concrete the next 4 nights so I'm going to try to build a ballast weight so I don't have to wait until spring: Should be quick hitch compatible and weigh about 1100lbs... I'm off to go buy a bunch of bags of concrete and some rebar now...

I have a feeling my 1987 tractor is safe from anything like that. Also all the safety stickers are so sun rotted you can't read them. I just want a way to stay inside the ROPS bar envelope if I'm doing anything sketchy. As I said, options...

I agree that a seatbelt without ROPS is a terrible idea, but since I do have ROPS, a seatbelt gives me more options than not having one does.

Added some seatbelts (tractor already has ROPS).

Got 4 unannounced inches of lovely powdery snow, so I took my adapted 50/1.2 soviet projector lens out for a spin.

Yeah, those are trashed. The pits will keep eating the wiper seals. I did see someone put an aftermarket cylinder on a kubota lifter, but they had to cut one end off the cylinder and weld on the old kubota end to get the right fit. My snowplow on my jeep has some pretty pitted cylinders, but...

Yep! Great way to test things, and the parts weren't *too* expensive (other than the tee itself, for some reason).

I teed the downward curl line (was the top line, so easiest to get to), throttled up to max and tried it. It definitely looks like it hit around 2300PSI before the needle stopped. It also held pressure, so I guess those cylinders aren't bypassing internally. Thanks again for the advice...

Maybe teeing a cylinder line would be easier... that plug is in there pretty tight and there's not a lot of clearance.