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The L3302 makes rated HP at 2700 RPM. The L2502 at 2200 RPM. When you mount the turbo, are you changing the RPM range as well, or does it now make 40+HP at 2200RPM? I presume the L3302 and L3902 have different PTO gearing than the L2502, despite being substantially similar.

I think they make more money on servicing and parts than they do on the original sale. No reason the service guys care whether or not the sales guys made a sale.

I thought we all did? $1 bills are cheaper than TP these days. (of course, I live in NZ where we haven't had $1 bills for about 20 years, and most of our money is plastic so would be pretty awful TP. It's the thought that counts). I'd probably buy outright if I was buying today. But we never...

Depends what you're doing with the money. Hypothetically, if you had the money burning a hole in your pocket / in your bank account, and you're the kind of person who wants your debts backed with cash, then it might not be great. You're taking the payments, but you've left the money in the bank...

It often isn't with Kubota, because the financing comes from Kubota themselves and the dealer carries no additional cost from using financing, they often haven't been that keen on cash prices, it's often been the case that 0% interest and cash were about the same price. At the moment that's not...

If it's not interest free, then $33K over 84 months v's $27K cash - my calc (RATE formula in Excel) is they're charging you effective 6%. I wouldn't pay 6% personally, even though I suspect there'll be places you could put your money that pay more than that in the next few years. You get tax and...

Storing stuff outside is a recipe for ruining it. I guess unless you live in Utah. If you don't have enough shed space, don't buy more tools, and spend your money on more shed. (Or, in my case, tidy the sheds you have and throw some stuff out)

Yup. A manual transmission in a tractor isn't like a manual transmission in a car, and the tasks aren't really the same either. If you had a car that spent all its days pulling a boat out of the boat ramp, you'd pretty soon want an auto. Tractor use, particularly small tractor use, is more like...

The spreadsheet already exists: https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/bx-vs-b01-vs-b50.36719/ It's a bit older, nothing much has changed, but the B2650 got renamed the LX2610. Same machine pretty much - some comfort things have changed on the various models, but not so much. The X...

I have a B2601, and it's plenty of tractor for the tasks I do. The step from a BX to a B is a big one, from a B to an LX is less big. It's material, but not night and day. The price is also not all that different though. The mid-PTO can run two main things - a mid mount mower (aka belly mower)...

I go the other way. We're not super wealthy, but we're comfortable. Our neighbourhood is reasonably close knit, lots of retired farmers. They like to borrow equipment, and they're sensible but they're farmers. They break things. I accept that as part of the cost of being in a community. Mostly...

Would you mow with a MMM? If not, and if you're not looking at a cab, then an L may be a better choice (more machine for similar money). I think it'd still go in a 55 inch wide door (the website claims 55.1 inches wide). The LX is apparently 53.7 inches, which would be more comfortable width...

Is it one of these: https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/008/1/5/8157-kubota-l1-18.html? It's a 1.3L 3 cylinder. In that sense an L2501 is probably closest. It looks perhaps like an early L model. But actually, you're looking for a fuel filter.....so I'd just get a fuel filter for that...

Correct. It's not a position control 3ph, so it doesn't need an auto stop. When you push the lever up, it goes up. When you push it down it goes down. Your eyeball sets the level, your hand stops it.

$130 at Messicks https://www.messicks.com/part/K5763-34712?vendorcode=KU (the original belt has been replaced by a new model number). I see after market ones around $50-60. So that's a meaningful saving. https://www.ebay.com/itm/111625072833 This looked like better quality at $95...

Seems to me they gave you two perfectly reasonable options: 1. If you're unhappy with the tractor, they'll happily disassemble to see what's wrong, and if it's warrantable they'll cover that cost under warranty. If it's not warrantable, you need to pay. That seems pretty fair - if it's not...

On my BX I didn't replace, I just inspected. When you do that, you need to be aware that they could break at an inopportune time (so not a good idea if you use your tractor to earn a living, but fine on a weekend machine), and might do some damage when they break if you don't notice. Obviously a...

This is most likely - your range selector bumped into neutral will give exactly those symptoms. Beyond that, yes, you can get your hydraulic fluid low enough that the drive won't work even though the loader and 3ph are still working. Unusual, but I've had my drive sluggish when the loader still...

Yup. That will. Ballast on the back would probably fix a lot of that - plant the rear wheels and suddenly your tractor gets much more stable. I've been cleaning out drains in the local community land. With a heavy ballast box on the back I can put my front wheels way down into the drain as I...

But you have a tractor. A box blade or a grading scraper on that BX, you could just get out there and do it properly. They probably wouldn't even notice, other than not needing to do as much maintenance.