1995 L35 no power at dash.

audiofn

Member

Equipment
L35
Nov 13, 2020
36
1
8
Boston
I just purchased a L35. Tractor runs great but is a hard cold start. None of the gauges in the dash work except for the tach. The chine sat for a long time out in a field (about 10 years). Hoping someone may have an idea where to start looking for a solution. I ordered the manual but it has not arrived yet. Want to get a start on it today. I did download the wire diagram going starting to look it over now. I am sure there are problem spots to look for. Hoping someone may know were to start looking. Thanks!
 

lacers123

New member

Equipment
Kubota l2501
Nov 22, 2020
10
0
1
Turkey
Hello. I'm going to buy an L35 for my bits and pieces. Are you satisfied with this machine? I will not do too much hard work. Should I buy a different machine in the same price range or is the L35 a good machine?
 

12251hd

Member

Equipment
M6800, L35, RTV
Nov 23, 2018
51
6
8
Woodbridge, VA
I have a 2000 L35 and the fuse box is located down next to the clutch. That's where I would start. Many have found corrosion occurring there, especially ground connections. I recall seeing ground connections under the dash. I'm generous with WD-40 on mine.

For Lacers123, I've had my L35 for about 15 years and it has been a reliable machine. I use it around the farm for general utility digging and ground improvements. I typically dig and lay 1000-1500 feet of field drainage pipe each year with it. Currently 2600 hrs. No major problems or issues. Tough machine. Good Luck.
 
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PoTreeBoy

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
L35 Ford 3930
Mar 24, 2020
2,344
1,179
113
WestTn/NoMs
I just purchased a L35. Tractor runs great but is a hard cold start. None of the gauges in the dash work except for the tach. The chine sat for a long time out in a field (about 10 years). Hoping someone may have an idea where to start looking for a solution. I ordered the manual but it has not arrived yet. Want to get a start on it today. I did download the wire diagram going starting to look it over now. I am sure there are problem spots to look for. Hoping someone may know were to start looking. Thanks!
You may find that the wiring diagram doesn't exactly match your tractor - but you may be lucky. I have a later model L35 and there were some minor differences between the tractor and diagram. I don't remember exactly, but I think it had to do with the light switches. Mine has turn signals and a separate flasher button. I suspect the earlier model didn't have turn signals?

The tach is mechanical so it doesn't need electric as I'm sure you know. There's a large (30/40A?) fuse near the starter, but if you don't have to jump the relay to start the machine it's not blown. Check the fuses in the fuse box on the left under the steering wheel. Is power getting that far? (Most of them only get power when the key is on ACC.) Does the tractor shut down with the key or do you have to use the pull knob? Your hard start may be caused by the glow plug circuit not functioning. There's a timer, a relay, indicator light and, I think, 2 fuses in that circuit. I just had to replace the timer on mine.

BTW, there's a major connector near the floor beneath the fuse box. I think it's supposed to be behind a cover, but my cover is missing.

Do any lights work? My head lights were missing the bulbs and sockets. I replaced them with LEDs only to find they're only useful for lighting the back of the bucket unless it's either on the ground or too high for safe travel.

Good luck and stay in touch.
 

Russell King

Well-known member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
4,603
975
113
Austin, Texas
I suggest that you get a test light or a volt meter to help diagnose the problem. If you can get to the back of the dash you can find out if there is any voltage going to the instrument or not.

If power is there then meter is probably bad, if no power then you have a problem with the wiring or fuse.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
28,286
4,852
113
Sandpoint, ID
Start at the starter (main fuse) and work your way back and yes do not forget to check all the ground connections too.
 

audiofn

Member

Equipment
L35
Nov 13, 2020
36
1
8
Boston
Hello. I'm going to buy an L35 for my bits and pieces. Are you satisfied with this machine? I will not do too much hard work. Should I buy a different machine in the same price range or is the L35 a good machine?
I have not used it much but everyone that I have talked with has said it is a fantastic machine. What I have done so far has impressed me.
 

audiofn

Member

Equipment
L35
Nov 13, 2020
36
1
8
Boston
I have a 2000 L35 and the fuse box is located down next to the clutch. That's where I would start. Many have found corrosion occurring there, especially ground connections. I recall seeing ground connections under the dash. I'm generous with WD-40 on mine.

For Lacers123, I've had my L35 for about 15 years and it has been a reliable machine. I use it around the farm for general utility digging and ground improvements. I typically dig and lay 1000-1500 feet of field drainage pipe each year with it. Currently 2600 hrs. No major problems or issues. Tough machine. Good Luck.
So today I pressure washed the machine after spraying it down with WD40 Degreaser. Most things seem to have started to work again! I am going to see if the blow plugs started to work because by the time I noticed everything working it was warmed up. That would I think point me to this exact location as I can't think of any other place that pressure washing would effect?
 

audiofn

Member

Equipment
L35
Nov 13, 2020
36
1
8
Boston
You may find that the wiring diagram doesn't exactly match your tractor - but you may be lucky. I have a later model L35 and there were some minor differences between the tractor and diagram. I don't remember exactly, but I think it had to do with the light switches. Mine has turn signals and a separate flasher button. I suspect the earlier model didn't have turn signals?

The tach is mechanical so it doesn't need electric as I'm sure you know. There's a large (30/40A?) fuse near the starter, but if you don't have to jump the relay to start the machine it's not blown. Check the fuses in the fuse box on the left under the steering wheel. Is power getting that far? (Most of them only get power when the key is on ACC.) Does the tractor shut down with the key or do you have to use the pull knob? Your hard start may be caused by the glow plug circuit not functioning. There's a timer, a relay, indicator light and, I think, 2 fuses in that circuit. I just had to replace the timer on mine.

BTW, there's a major connector near the floor beneath the fuse box. I think it's supposed to be behind a cover, but my cover is missing.

Do any lights work? My head lights were missing the bulbs and sockets. I replaced them with LEDs only to find they're only useful for lighting the back of the bucket unless it's either on the ground or too high for safe travel.

Good luck and stay in touch.
I have not studied the wiring diagram yet. I have only printed it out. I did look at it a bit on my PC but it was three different paged so hard to connect the dots. I am going to focus on the fuse box. After washing the machine today a lot of things started to work. I have to get my test light and start in on things. I had a few other safety issues I want to address like the neutral safety switch that is bypassed. The bolt fell out of that and I can't figure out what size bolt that is! I do have to sue the pull knob to get it to shut off. The previous owner said that it has been that way as long as he can remember.

Prior to today none of the lints worked. Now that it has been washed my headlights were not working but the lights on the top of the cab up front and back worked.

Thanks for all the ideas.
 

audiofn

Member

Equipment
L35
Nov 13, 2020
36
1
8
Boston
I suggest that you get a test light or a volt meter to help diagnose the problem. If you can get to the back of the dash you can find out if there is any voltage going to the instrument or not.

If power is there then meter is probably bad, if no power then you have a problem with the wiring or fuse.
Yup going to start in when I have time. The good news is I am fairly good at tracing wiring issues. Just looking for ideas on places to start looking. Based on what keeps coming up it sounds like the fuse box may be the place to start looking. :)
 

Russell King

Well-known member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
4,603
975
113
Austin, Texas
Yup going to start in when I have time. The good news is I am fairly good at tracing wiring issues. Just looking for ideas on places to start looking. Based on what keeps coming up it sounds like the fuse box may be the place to start looking. :)
Good luck and remember that Kubota has a reputation for having ground problems so you may want to start off with getting a good clean ground from battery to frame. You may want to ground the gauges directly to battery and see if that helps.
 
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audiofn

Member

Equipment
L35
Nov 13, 2020
36
1
8
Boston
Didn't know that they made a degreaser so I had to Google it. Sho nuff!! ;)
I did not either! Saw it at Home Depot when I was grabbing some other stuff and figured it would save me from a trip to the auto store. It worked fairly well. Not the best I have ever used but got all the oil off and that was the goal so job well done.
 

audiofn

Member

Equipment
L35
Nov 13, 2020
36
1
8
Boston
Good luck and remember that Kubota has a reputation for having ground problems so you may want to start off with getting a good clean ground from battery to frame. You may want to ground the gauges directly to battery and see if that helps.
Thanks for the info, good to know about the grounds. I wish the wiring diagrams I had showed the grounding locations and locations fo parts but I am sure I can slowly figure it out.
 

Russell King

Well-known member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
4,603
975
113
Austin, Texas
Thanks for the info, good to know about the grounds. I wish the wiring diagrams I had showed the grounding locations and locations fo parts but I am sure I can slowly figure it out.
I think for the most part, Kubota relies on the frame and attachment points to be ground points (unless you have the version that has plastic hoo, dash...).

On my older L185 there are no ground wires on any of the gauges, only the headlights have a ground wire as far as I recall but it simply attaches to the hood near the light.