Recent content by twotall88

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    Is the rule of thumb, "if you can reverse up the hill, you can drive up the hill"?

    I really want to do retaining walls with drivable 6' flats but that is $$$ to the tune of tens of thousands of dollars. It comes down to time and money. Right now it's a lot easier and faster to ride it cautiously than it is to string trim it.
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    Is the rule of thumb, "if you can reverse up the hill, you can drive up the hill"?

    I don't have a picture at the moment, I'll get one this afternoon with a plumb bob in it knowing pictures don't do hills justice. I redid the measurement last night with a 8' straight edge and at the top of the hill it measures 56-60°
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    How steep is steep for BX23S up/down hill travel?

    Redid the measurement, turns out I was dilexing the number I saw. It's 60-56°
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    How steep is steep for BX23S up/down hill travel?

    I'm going to measure again today but I did a rough measurement with my phone's clinograph a while ago and that's about what it came to. It would never make it half way up in 2wd
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    Is the rule of thumb, "if you can reverse up the hill, you can drive up the hill"?

    They tell you to reverse up the hill because you will lose traction before you will go end-over-end vs going forward you have the engine up high. I really get the tripod bit but didn't make that connection until now. I have a lot of slopes on my property and I'm constantly stopping to 'wiggle'...
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    Is the rule of thumb, "if you can reverse up the hill, you can drive up the hill"?

    Update: I redid the measurement with a 8' straight edge and it turns out the top of the hill I'm mowing is 56-60°. I understand the internet says I'm crazy but I'm really not having issues carefully mowing up it in reverse. I have a 40-46° 56-60° slope that I'm mowing with my BX2380 and 60"...
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    How steep is steep for BX23S up/down hill travel?

    I know this is an old thread but I'm currently mowing a correction: 56-60° slope up and down (mostly backing up/driving down) with my BX2380 and 60" MMM without issue.
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    BX2380 are the hardlines below the 'quick tach' hydraulic manifold 1/2" NPT or 1/2" JIC?

    The upper (FEL side) are actually 3/8" JIC to 1/2" ORFS (might be 1/4") into the spring loaded cartridge. I had it apart yesterday, what is 1/4" NPT is the female quick connects that everyone suggests using requiring the 3/8" JIC to 1/4" NPT adaptor. The lower side is completely different with...
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    BX2380 are the hardlines below the 'quick tach' hydraulic manifold 1/2" NPT or 1/2" JIC?

    I'm replacing the fittings in the manifold block for the front loader quick attach "quicktach" and the hard line looks like it is JIC but not really and the Kubota cartridge appears to be 1/2" NPT?
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    BX2380 "quick tach" 4-in-1 couplers rebuildable?

    You shared that one on my other thread. I've realized my leak is coming from that male/tractor side so I'm trying to figure out how to go from the 3/8" JIC on the bottom, up through the bracket for stability and replace the flush face male couplers.
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    BX2380 "quick tach" 4-in-1 couplers rebuildable?

    Best I can tell, the male tips are part of the manifold cartridge
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    BX2380 "quick tach" 4-in-1 couplers rebuildable?

    are the male side cartridges rebuildable, or do I need to fork out $62 a pop to replace the leaking ones?
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    BX2380 Hydraulic 4-in-1 quick coupler upgrade to 4x1 help

    Great, thanks. I guess final question, did you use the Kubota one or the generic summit one?
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    BX2380 Hydraulic 4-in-1 quick coupler upgrade to 4x1 help

    Just to make sure I'm understanding correctly, you only replaced the female/FEL side of the manifold?
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    BX2380 Hydraulic 4-in-1 quick coupler upgrade to 4x1 help

    Hello, I just got a 2018 BX2380 at auction with 574 hours and one of the issues I've noticed is that the 4-in-1 hydraulic quick coupler has a pretty significant leak which I then found out with Google that it's a mixture of design flaw and user error. I'm interested in either rebuilding the...