Recent content by ruger1980

FFL licensees are now required to hold 4473's for the lifetime of the business and at that point you can hand them over to the ATF for safe keeping.:sneaky:

Does the problem occur when you are moving or just sitting without trying to propel the machine? If while trying to move likely that one of your charge checks are not sealing due to contamination or damage. If while sitting there not moving it could be your charge relief valve. This is assuming...

Two posts so far and both to advertise a vendors product that costs about $5k to get a package that is useful. I think that if a vendor wants to advertise here they should be doing so in the vendor section.

Probably a KC120. Do a search for that model and you can see if that matches up

Do not use anything abrasive on the plungers or barrels. Any metal removed will loosen the incredibly tight tolerances and excess leakage will occur. Also make certain you workplace and the components are much cleaner than the pics you attached. Do not remove the locating pins in the housing...

Interesting, my L225 the headlight bulbs are the same size bayonet as an 1157 bulb.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NV7LLU2/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_19?smid=A6AY1HFZHO49U&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSDLZ3M/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_18?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1 You can usually get the pigtails at a good auto parts store as well. I am sure you can get them under the...

240 grit is not a bad choice. The only I may have done differently is hone with a 220-260 grit straight hone and touch up a with a 320 grit ball hone to create a plateau finish. As long as the rings are installed correctly I would run it and see what becomes of her.

Like the wolfman said as long as you installed the pistons and rings correctly you should be OK. What grit ball hone did you use and what angle crosshatch di you achieve? If too coarse a grit it could cause lower compression until the rings seat in but that could extend the seating time and...

And they're back!

As @Fedup said the bearings and spacer are going to create a solid assembly and there is no adjustment for gear position. I suspect the correct assembly process is to assemble without a gasket and the bolts finger tight. Then measure the gap with feeler gauges and adjust the gasket thickness...

The only thing that fuse supplies is the AC and blower relays. A total of maybe a half an amp total to power the coils in those relays. If the switch were bad it would have to be shorting to ground which is possible but you should be able to see and measure that at the pigtail off the switch...

First thing is to unload the parts cannon and then start testing with a multimeter. See attached

The shaft looks like it is still in place, other wise it would be dropped down into the governor ass'y. If the shaft is actually twisted off it can be replaced. Just remove the four nots that hold that plate in place and pull up. The governor spring attaches to the lever and all you have to do...

No electric shut off on that vintage machine. Probably goes to the fuel gauge or one of the wires seen under the fuel tank.