Recent content by ruger1980

As mentioned water intrusion generally causes the ball nut shaft bearings to fail which increase endplay in the shaft assembly. They can easily be rebuilt using aftermarket parts as long as nothing else needs replacement. If so it is usually better to try one of the aftermarket replacement boxes...

Being an electronically controlled governor there are no fuel adjustments to be made. The only thing that could be adjusted would be timing via the shims under the injection pump. You say smoke but do not describe the color. Is it greyish whitish in color? Diesels being a compression ignition...

I also forgot to mention that I would have the valves and seats checked or replaced on that hole. They are more than likely bent from interference.

Looks like a piece of wire or something in that shape. I would be checking out the air cleaner and intake tract for any possible broken pieces. As far as the piston I would check the piston height at TDC and compare to the other pistons. If the bottom of the piston skirt is broken it's very...

KMart is used by some in the construction industry to signify the Japanese manufacturers that either start with a K or some of the manufacturers that are based in Korea.

Yes they are a tie rod or rod end. 5/16x24UNF is a very common size. You can order from Kmart or any aftermarket source will do you just fine.

Do download the WSM first. Then I would verify the servo linkage is working in both directions fully and the servo shaft is turning fully when the linkage/lever moves. The next step I would do is swap the swap the forward and reverse high pressure relief/check valves and see if the issue moves...

The injector reamers you are referring to are not generally intended to cut metal. They made to clean the carbon from the injector bore. This is more commonly done on DI injectors. For your application I would just use a quality wire brush chucked into my cordless drill. Just don't get too...

Let's not chase him away

As stated STOP messing withe the control valve. The other circuits have nothing to do with the swing function. The only commonality is that the return from all circuits to tank merges before leaving the valve. Everything you need to diagnose this issue is in the schematic that @whitetiger posted...

First off stop disassembling the control valve and do not swap spools, they are usually different for different functions. There is also very little that can go wrong with a spool. But to clear up your reply. You say no change when you swapped hoses/cylinders with the swing spool correct? So...

If another function works on the swing spool when swapped you do not have a valve problem. Your post is a bit confusing but I believe that is what you stated in your post. To me it sound smore like you have the crossover hose between cylinders incorrect. The barrel end of each cylinder must...

OK don't listen

Measure voltage drop using the method I describe not ohms with your multimeter. This is a much easier and accurate test.

After rereading my post I wanted to make myself more clear. By testing I am saying testing of the ign. switch. So test from batt terminal on the switch to the glow plugs terminals on the switch. Also the circuit has to be complete and loaded when performing a voltage drop test