Recent content by hedgerow

Doesn't look like to good of soil. I would sure get that planted back to grass. Seen it to many times were someone cut a hill like that that wasn't going to be rocked and ended up with a huge ditch running down the fence line.

Its your money and spent it how you like but it were me I would just use the X758 you have coming to mow the pasture and lawn. Once you get it mowed down and keep it mowed the mower will handle that with no issues. Have a buddy that bought an acreage with a 5 acre pasture that hadn't been mowed...

Welcome to the forum. Out on my farm we run the engines at the rated speed to a 540 PTO RPM or 1000 PTO RPM. Tractors, combines, sprayers and such are designed to run at rated speed for hours on hours. Some tractors have a E range on the 540 PTO speed so the engine can be ran slower for 540 PTO...

This is what you need to do. My bat wing mower came from the factory with corn head grease in it. I don't think there is a gear box on this farm that has 80-90 in it any more and that includes the windmill gear boxes.

Your MX will play play with that two bottom plow. You have your FWA if the going gets tough. I wouldn't even consider the one bottom.

I would give Koyker a call 800-557-4689 and see if they ever built brackets for this loader on that tractor. Years back there were a ton of Koyker loaders in my area. I had work with them many times to get brackets to put a loader on a different model tractor. Back then they were easy to work...

Back in the early to mid 80's when the use of big round bales got to going there were a lot of folks in south east Nebraska. Kansas and Mo that were running around with these folks bale spears on there pickups. Got to be a good company to still be around.

Over the years I have owned and worked on a lot of used equipment that folks weren't very careful with there fueling practices. Have removed a lot of tanks over the years for cleaning. I won't think about removing a cap on a piece of equipment without blowing compress air around the filler cap...

A buddy has a home made twenty foot with steel grating for a floor and its stood up well over the years and he pulls it in the winter with his skid loader on it to do snow removeable work. Wood doesn't work for him as his trailers never see a shed. If you can buy the trailer right I would buy it...

Like the others have said. First thing to do is to make sure all nozzles and body's are clean. When you have the nozzles out see what number they are and brand they are and then look up on the internet what's the GPA they are at what PSI. I like T-JET brand as they have nice charts to show all...

If it were me I would offer it up for 20 grand and take no less. If it sells go buy a UTV if it doesn't throw a carrier on the three point and use it for your UTV. My MX6000 is my UTV on this farm. You have one nice tractor there. After you wade threw the BS some serious person will buy that...

I have had some form of flex wing mowers for forty five years. Started with a old Alamo that I pickup on a state sale. Now days the state hires out all the road mowing. They are leasing JD tractors and JD flex wing mowers. Had a couple used Bush Hog brand. They were pretty beat up when I got...

I like my MX6000 but its not the only tractor on this farm. Sounds like for what your going to be doing you better get the 7060 and since your only going to have one tractor I would sure get a cab on it. My non cabbed MX6000 is a garage queen in the winter. When it comes to making fence post...

Sorry late to the party but yes holes are for a hammer strap. Lot of different ones of them. Most tractors 100 HP and up use a hammer strap hitch on the implement and tractor. All my bigger implements use them. As a matter of fact I don't even have my three point arms and quick hitches on my two...

I don't have the measurement handy for the factory top link off my MX6000 but it hasn't been on the tractor since it was new. It was to short for the implements that I use on my MX6000.