BX 1880 VS Gr2120

[Bee-Positive]

Seems they sell them overseas. Not sure if you can get them on this side of the pond.

GR2120 Rear Grass catcher

 

[PaulL]

My B2601 mows plenty fast. I have long straight runs. It rides nicer than a zero turn. My acre and a bit takes a little over 30 minutes. Horses for courses though, if I had shrubs everywhere it would be different.

 

[William1]

I have trees, bushes, curving garden bed, every shape and sort of obstacle. Narrow areas, fences, 48" wide gates, a narrow (6') peninsula that sticks out in to my pond.

 

[William1]

Seems they sell them overseas. Not sure if you can get them on this side of the pond.

GR2120 Rear Grass catcher

Very close to what I want, (nitpicking) Shorter but taller bagger to make backing up easier. Bags on US GR and BX are fine.
Odd engine power rating is so much higher than the USA version.

 

[jyoutz]

I went from a craftsman lawn tractor that had seen it's last lawn mowing, to a Zero turn.
I will never use a tractor or ride on lawn mower again!
It's 4 times faster than a tractor.
It's smother running
And it does a closer cleaner cut.
One other option would be an F unit, Front mount mower.

Absolutely. Unless the OP is going to be field mowing, there is no better dedicated lawn mower than a zero turn.

 

[jyoutz]

Zero turns, a few neighbors have them. While they turn super sharp, that twisting inside stationary wheel rips the grass off.
So I am looking at a BX1880 or a GR2120
The idea of (if need be) the FEL on one and BH on my BX25D is intriguing though in 10 years, I've never had to do be in a situation where separated would of been handy. So that is not a factor.
I wish,,,, the GR2120 was a rear discharge, had a rear mounted vacuum sucker to minimize width and really get up leaves and lawn debris, I guess you can't always get what you want.

I’ve never had an issue with my zero turn damaging the grass. But I don’t mow wet grass.

 

[BX25D Rookie]

William1,
You have to analyze & decide what works best for YOU for your personal situation.
Your land, your grass, your obstacles in that grass.

I have a pair of BX machines. That choice works great for ME.
The most recently acquired BX 2370 is a dedicated mower with the 60" mid mount deck.
It does have the FEL joystick & hydraulic hardlines, but it never had a FEL or mounts for one.
I acquired the second BX used, so the original owner took the "no loader hit" when it was traded in.
I had 96 hours of mowing for the ~ six months of grass cutting season here in upstate NY in 2025.

I mow an acre lot at my home and slightly less than two at my cabin/recreational property.

I do not regret acquiring the second BX machine.

When spring arrives, see if you can get your local Kubota Dealer to bring you a BX and a Zero Turn.
Try both of them on your land and see what works best for you.

 

[William1]

William1,
You have to analyze & decide what works best for YOU for your personal situation.
Your land, your grass, your obstacles in that grass.

I have a pair of BX machines. That choice works great for ME.
The most recently acquired BX 2370 is a dedicated mower with the 60" mid mount deck.
It does have the FEL joystick & hydraulic hardlines, but it never had a FEL or mounts for one.
I acquired the second BX used, so the original owner took the "no loader hit" when it was traded in.
I had 96 hours of mowing for the ~ six months of grass cutting season here in upstate NY in 2025.

I mow an acre lot at my home and slightly less than two at my cabin/recreational property.

I do not regret acquiring the second BX machine.

When spring arrives, see if you can get your local Kubota Dealer to bring you a BX and a Zero Turn.
Try both of them on your land and see what works best for you.

Therein lay the 'rub', what works great for me....

Local dealer DOES have a GR2120, so I'll check that out in person. My concern with it is the blower hanging off the deck and what will happen when I do something stupid (and I will).
Actual size, a BX and the GR are about the same length and width (minus the blower), the BX being a little taller but... I'd imagine the mower deck weight helps stabilize the BX. Do you find it at all 'tippy'?
Pricing, they are about the same at the end of the day.
I have a BX25D, so a second BX would share spare parts.

 

[William1]

More I think about it, the more the BX makes sense over the GR. I really do not like the vacuum assy hanging off the side. Interchangeable parts to my BX25D The BX1880 has a 3Pt that would stay on
I recall my dads early Kubotas (30 years ago) BLEW the cut grass out 20', really would not need the vacuum assist (though he did not bag it). I figure the vacuum assist will really help getting leaves up and macerating them.
But... tomorrow I'll check them both out in person.
Funny, I never test drive cars any more, I just email what I want and get it. All new cars feel weird to me anyway. Just got a new PU, about 1,000 miles on it now, still feels odd, like a rental.

 

[Bearcatrp]

I wanted a bagger system for cutting grass. Researched all the possibilities and costs. Not cheap those pull behind vacuums. I went with a $250 yard sweeper from Menards. When adjusted properly, picks up most stuff. Sometimes I have to go over the same area to pick up stuff but for the cost, well worth it. Yard Machine was the widest and least expensive I could find.

 

[PaulL]

A BX would be great. More robust machine than a GR, as you say, it will bag better. Zero turns can be great, but if you want a BX you should buy one.

 

[William1]

Went to the dealer this morning. Checked out the GR.
The GR does turn very sharp, not 4 wheel steering but it disengages one rear wheel (full time 4WD) and the fronts (pulling it around) turn darn close to 90 degrees, easily do a 1-1/2' radius turn. Not noticeable at all when the system engages/disengages, very smooth.
Garden tractor 'feel'
Did not like the treadle pedal for HST control. I've very short legs and it required me to sit up close. One pedal Vs a BX separate pedals (which is more natural than a 'treadle'
Seems all BX are 4WD (which is fine) BX, manual diff lock, the GR automatic managed (did not get into it)
Big concern is width. I have gates that are only 60" wide. GR blower is on the end of the deck. Dealer will get measurements.
Leaning to the BX as it is the same basic machine as my BX25D. Dealer told me a plain BX1880 with a mower deck is pretty stable compared to my BX25D with the BH and FEL hanging off of it.
No rush. I got the deck of the old Craftsman welded and reinforced but saw other pin holes, so it is living on borrowed time. At least its' not going to fall off today....

 

[Hugo Habicht]

I got the deck of the old Craftsman welded and reinforced but saw other pin holes, so it is living on borrowed time. At least its' not going to fall off today....

You should stop cleaning the deck. The holes in mine get clogged up by grass

 

[William1]

You should stop cleaning the deck. The holes in mine get clogged up by grass

I never did except to remove clumps of grass. 15 years and a cheap deck, somethings gotta go....
I bet I could run it for a few more years. Whats really stopping me is the poor suction and small bags. Clogs a lot. Does a mediocre job with leaves. Decent mowing though.

 

[PaulL]

I'm pretty sure all BX tractors have a treadle. Mine certainly did. If lack of the treadle is a big reason for you to prefer a BX than a GR, then make sure that you're correct in that - I don't think I've ever seen a BX with two pedals (I thought that was a John Deere thing).

BX is known for being a mountain goat, I'd be very surprised if you had any stability concerns. The loader and BH definitely raise the centre of gravity. Sometimes what people perceive as a stability problem is actually how they feel rather than any real stability issue. My B is taller still than my BX was, and when I got it I felt like it was more tippy. I started driving it onto slopes I wanted to mow, then getting off, standing beside it, and trying to tip it. Whilst my butt was clenching because I felt like it was unstable, there was absolutely no way I could tip it over - it was my imagination not reality. The one thing that can make you unstable is going fast, and dropping a wheel into a hole / hitting a bump. So long as you don't have speed to exacerbate things, you're unlikely to get in trouble on any slope that you're willing to drive on.

My B does have a pretty stiff treadle. And one thing that helps is sitting close - you get a more vertical push on the pedal, which I find easier on my knees. My B has a tilting steering wheel, the newer BX may as well.

 

[William1]

I'm pretty sure all BX tractors have a treadle. Mine certainly did. If lack of the treadle is a big reason for you to prefer a BX than a GR, then make sure that you're correct in that - I don't think I've ever seen a BX with two pedals (I thought that was a John Deere thing).

BX is known for being a mountain goat, I'd be very surprised if you had any stability concerns. The loader and BH definitely raise the centre of gravity. Sometimes what people perceive as a stability problem is actually how they feel rather than any real stability issue. My B is taller still than my BX was, and when I got it I felt like it was more tippy. I started driving it onto slopes I wanted to mow, then getting off, standing beside it, and trying to tip it. Whilst my butt was clenching because I felt like it was unstable, there was absolutely no way I could tip it over - it was my imagination not reality. The one thing that can make you unstable is going fast, and dropping a wheel into a hole / hitting a bump. So long as you don't have speed to exacerbate things, you're unlikely to get in trouble on any slope that you're willing to drive on.

My B does have a pretty stiff treadle. And one thing that helps is sitting close - you get a more vertical push on the pedal, which I find easier on my knees. My B has a tilting steering wheel, the newer BX may as well.

My BX25D definitely has some pucker factor. I've lifted a rear wheel 8"+ a few times, but either had outriggers out that would of prevented a rollover of the load in the FEL (like 50' tree trunks) low enough that it would 'save me'..
A comment the dealer made was, have the BH on and curled in tight, it puts a lot of weight up high (never though about it!). Now that I have my shop done I keep the BH off and on a BX Expanded dolly.
I know where the few 'troublesome holes are (gotta get the wife to fill them with dirt, that's one of her jobs!)
My BX has a pedal in front and a 'button' behind for HST control. I'm fine with the arrangement. The single treadle on the GR it is designed for your foot to sit on and use your ankle. There would be work around's and possible modifications but, I have little interest in doing that on day one.
One other thing about the GR that was a turn off, for a $13K machine, the dash is poor. No tach, just a couple of warning lights. Fuel gauge is mounted in the fender next to the filler, I doubt you can see it while mowing (to me fair, my current Craftsman has no fuel level gauge or tach, just a Hobbs meter (and I added it!). The BX has a proper dash.
One comment the salesman had about the BX and the Blower/catcher was removing and installing the blower was a PITA. If it is because of weight I have a steel beam, trolley and hoist.
I have one place on my property that concerns me when mowing with the BX. It is a narrow strip of land between a stream and the pone, perhaps 8' wide. My procedure has been to mow one side to the end and then very carefully back up and make a 'K' turn. I'm sure the BX can do it (about the same as my existing garden tractor) but still it scares me a little, I am positive the GR could do it with pleasure.I should run a test, drive a circle on my driveway with my garden tractor then one with the BX25D.

 

[PaulL]

You could take the loader and backhoe off the BX25 and drive it all the places you want to mow. The 1880 will be a little lower (smaller wheels), and have a mower deck adding a lower centre of gravity. So if the BX25 will go there, then the BX1880 will.

I'm not real clear on your description of the BX25 treadle pedal. It sounds exactly like the treadle I had on my old BX - two pedals on a pivot, the reverse under my heel, the forward under the toe. So I think what you're saying is that the GR treadle is smaller - you can cover the whole thing with your foot. Where a BX (and B) treadle is longer, so you kind of physically move your foot from the forward pedal to the reverse pedal. But the two pedals aren't side by side like on a John Deere.

Like you (appear to be doing) I spent a lot of time going through all the details on this machine or that machine. Most of the comfort elements actually don't matter - fuel gauges, cruise controls, etc etc. A well built machine that has traction when you need it and that has limits quite a way past what you typically use will always be a good buy. A different machine with more doo-dads, but that mechanically doesn't have the performance you need, will be a constant pain in the behind.

My inclination is that the BX1880 that you describe actually does the things you want. The GR sort of does it, but if you buy it you'll probably spend the next 10 years wishing you'd bought the BX. I haven't heard anything you've listed so far where I could imagine you'd buy the BX and spend any time at all wishing you'd bought the GR. Other than perhaps the day you write out the check to buy it. "Buy once cry once" seems relevant in that situation.

 

[William1]

You could take the loader and backhoe off the BX25 and drive it all the places you want to mow. The 1880 will be a little lower (smaller wheels), and have a mower deck adding a lower centre of gravity. So if the BX25 will go there, then the BX1880 will.

I'm not real clear on your description of the BX25 treadle pedal. It sounds exactly like the treadle I had on my old BX - two pedals on a pivot, the reverse under my heel, the forward under the toe. So I think what you're saying is that the GR treadle is smaller - you can cover the whole thing with your foot. Where a BX (and B) treadle is longer, so you kind of physically move your foot from the forward pedal to the reverse pedal. But the two pedals aren't side by side like on a John Deere.

Like you (appear to be doing) I spent a lot of time going through all the details on this machine or that machine. Most of the comfort elements actually don't matter - fuel gauges, cruise controls, etc etc. A well built machine that has traction when you need it and that has limits quite a way past what you typically use will always be a good buy. A different machine with more doo-dads, but that mechanically doesn't have the performance you need, will be a constant pain in the behind.

My inclination is that the BX1880 that you describe actually does the things you want. The GR sort of does it, but if you buy it you'll probably spend the next 10 years wishing you'd bought the BX. I haven't heard anything you've listed so far where I could imagine you'd buy the BX and spend any time at all wishing you'd bought the GR. Other than perhaps the day you write out the check to buy it. "Buy once cry once" seems relevant in that situation.

That's kind of what I was going to do/test. Probably this week. Do a 'weenie test' putting buckets in the driveway and compare maneuverability between my BX and my old Craftsman. Can I K turn a B in 8' (or less) of space?
Must of mis-written. My BX (like I am sure yours is) has a large-ish pedal for forward and a 'button' for reverse, very intuitive and easy. The GR has the treadle, a sole shaped plate the pivots in the middle, so you flex your ankle VS pressing with your foot.
My wife liked the GR (because it is small).
An B1880 will be able to do more than just mow, but if it is unwieldy, then....
We shall see.

 

[Shawn T. W]

Must of mis-written. My BX (like I am sure yours is) has a large-ish pedal for forward and a 'button' for reverse, very intuitive and easy.

I'm still confused ...

This is what I call a "treadle PEDAL" ... From my manual.

I only use the toe of my foot to operate it, top -down for forward, underside - up to back up ... I don't back up much!

I just went out to the barn to take this picture of my L5030, is your BX like this? (Brake pedals at the top)

This is my Massey Ferguson, the rubber pads kept slipping off, so I screwed them on, give better traction when muddy too!

I prefer the side by side style better, but may be just that's what I started on, and have 735 hours on it, (and what I have the loader/forks on!) and only 20 hours on the Kubota, and most of that time is with the cruise control on!

 

[Sawdust&Shavings]

I'm still confused ...

This is what I call a "treadle PEDAL" ... From my manual.

View attachment 166578

I only use the toe of my foot to operate it, top -down for forward, underside - up to back up ... I don't back up much!

I just went out to the barn to take this picture of my L5030, is your BX like this? (Brake pedals at the top)

View attachment 166579

This is my Massey Ferguson, the rubber pads kept slipping off, so I screwed them on, give better traction when muddy too!

View attachment 166580

I prefer the side by side style better, but may be just that's what I started on, and have 735 hours on it, (and what I have the loader/forks on!) and only 20 hours on the Kubota, and most of that time is with the cruise control on!

Treadle pedal is #12 in the diagram below.