Hydraulic chute build

Old_Paint

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Very true. It is dangerous. But I'm not planning on ever shooting snow in my face :). I'm gonna stop rotating before it happens. FWIW, I'm wearing eye protection because you still get lots of snow in your face even when facing the opposite side.

As for the electric motor, the reason I dont like it is not a matter of torque. It's simply the fact that it's electric. Electric wires and motors don't like salty snow. In my last build, the wires got comoletely corroded. Making the whole thing water resistant and using quality parts would end up costing about the same as going hydraulic. Plus, hydraulics is fun.
I wouldn’t consider running something like that without eye protection, if not a full face shield. I’m sure the intention is to never point it at yourself while using it, but it could well be something that gets stuck inside until it thaws enough to let go. If you’re testing/adjusting and walk in front of the chute at the right time (wrong place) …….

The same thing can happen with a chipper. I’m well aware. But you did ask if anyone thought any part of it was “stupid “. Stupid, no, dangerous, very much so.
The machining looks good, just be diligent about where it’s pointed. Don’t become a statistic. I take it you’re gonna use your 3FV to run the motor.
Good luck with it and be safe!
 
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awesome

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You lost me with "3FV". I have a 2spool valve hooked up on my 3 hoses that the backhoe would use.

The sproket works when I rotate manually. Didnt weld it on the hub yet. I know it probably wont work well. So I'm gonna look around for shops that sell gears.
 

awesome

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@TheOldHokie , wouldn't I be better off with the 5cu motor instead of a smaller one? If my calculations are right, with 2.2cu and 8.5GPM (my tractor), I get 892 RPM. With the gear it goes downnto 2.8 round per seconds.

The 5cu motor with the same GPM would yield a rpm of 392 wich is much more suitable.

Or I can keep the 2.2cu ad just restrict the flow with small fittings on the hose
 

DustyRusty

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I had a similar type of setup, and only once did I come close to pointing the chute at myself, and I felt the spray of the snow long before it came around enough to blast me. I had installed adjustable hose restrictors so the chute didn't move that fast. In fact, it was a lot slower than the chute turning that came as standard equipment on my BX snowblower.
 
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awesome

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I had a similar type of setup, and only once did I come close to pointing the chute at myself, and I felt the spray of the snow long before it came around enough to blast me. I had installed adjustable hose restrictors so the chute didn't move that fast. In fact, it was a lot slower than the chute turning that came as standard equipment on my BX snowblower.
Do you have a link to those restrictors?
My hoses are 1/4, it's hard to restrict more than that. I could use 1/8 fittings but I'd like to restrict even more. Then again... The original kit doesn't have anything like that
 

DustyRusty

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Do you have a link to those restrictors?
My hoses are 1/4, it's hard to restrict more than that. I could use 1/8 fittings but I'd like to restrict even more. Then again... The original kit doesn't have anything like that
I used used Parker control valves purchased on eBay. The picture is of the exact one that I used. They are adjustable and lockable with an Allen screw. Here is one that I did find doing a search.. https://www.google.com/search?q=par...XzQ5MzU0Mzk3NDg2MzQ3MDE4OTA=,pvt:hg&oshop=apv
Parker F400B Flow Control Valve,Brass,1/4-18,5 GPM
Here is one on eBay, but you can purchase a new one for what they want for a used one..

s-l1600.jpg

.
 

TheOldHokie

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@TheOldHokie , wouldn't I be better off with the 5cu motor instead of a smaller one? If my calculations are right, with 2.2cu and 8.5GPM (my tractor), I get 892 RPM. With the gear it goes downnto 2.8 round per seconds.

The 5cu motor with the same GPM would yield a rpm of 392 wich is much more suitable.

Or I can keep the 2.2cu ad just restrict the flow with small fittings on the hose
You have the arithmetic correct but your analysis is incomplete:
  1. You only get 8 GPM from the pump with the engine at max RPM. At half speed its 4 GPM and at idle even less.
  2. You are also using a manual control valve. Unlike electric third function valves which are all or none devices it is a flow control device. You can use it to meter pump flow to the motor to control speed just like you control the speed of your loader cylinders.
I don't know what the gear ratio is on your chute drive, what engine RPM your using most of the time, or how good the metering is on your control valve so I can't give you hard numbers but your analysis needs to take all of those factors into consideration. As is I think you are way overstating the flow going to the motor.

Dan
 

awesome

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I don't know what the gear ratio is on your chute drive, what engine RPM your using most of the time, or how good the metering is on your control valve so I can't give you hard numbers but your analysis needs to take all of those factors into consideration. As is I think you are way overstating the flow going to the motor.


Dan
I'm always going full throttle. It's a small tractor.
I'll experiment and see if I need to restrict. I looked at that Parker needle valve. 70$ with shipping. I'm starting to dislike this hobby. The dealer is probably not making much money with their 900$ kit.
 

TheOldHokie

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I'm always going full throttle. It's a small tractor.
I'll experiment and see if I need to restrict. I looked at that Parker needle valve. 70$ with shipping. I'm starting to dislike this hobby. The dealer is probably not making much money with their 900$ kit.
First you can buy an inexpensive adjustable flow control valve online for $15.

But I do not see any utility in them in your situation. Your control valve can and will do that job. If the metering on your control valve is not granular enough you can put a couple port restructors on the motor. That how they deal with this issue on truck plows.

There is no need to over complicate this. It's a very intermittent circuit so you don't need to worry about heat. Start with a small motor sized for the torque you need not flow rate and your manual control valve. If when you fire it up it's still too fast put a couple cheap port restrictors on the motor.

No offense but KISS.

Dan
 
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awesome

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To my great surprise, it works pretty well with the sprocket. But the speed is too fast. I really need to be gentle with the valve. I'll try to add a 1/8 coupler on there to see what that gives me
PXL_20221123_200155537.jpg
 

TheOldHokie

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To my great surprise, it works pretty well with the sprocket. But the speed is too fast. I really need to be gentle with the valve. I'll try to add a 1/8 coupler on there to see what that gives me View attachment 91114
That is very nice. Now put two of these on the motor. and call it good to go. You might be able to get away with just one. A longer handle on the valve will also make it easier to modulate.


Dan
 
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awesome

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I'm having a hard time finding restrictors in canada.
@DustyRusty , is that needle-valve bidirectional? I could use just one of them?
 

TheOldHokie

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awesome

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Have you asked at a local hydraulic supply house?

Dan
Yup. No restrictors there. Only needle valves for 46$ each and they're unidirectional, so I need 2.

I can get some on amazon for 22$ each. By the time I get the fittings to bring down from 1/2 to 1/4, it's getting more expensive than the valve mentioned by @DustyRusty from ebay.

Cant find cheap proper restrictors on grainger.ca either.
 

TheOldHokie

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Yup. No restrictors there. Only needle valves for 46$ each and they're unidirectional, so I need 2.

I can get some on amazon for 22$ each. By the time I get the fittings to bring down from 1/2 to 1/4, it's getting more expensive than the valve mentioned by @DustyRusty from ebay.

Cant find cheap proper restrictors on grainger.ca either.
Canada seems to be a third world. I will mail you two for $20 plus postage. I can probably pick them up at the local Tractor Supply next time I am there. What kind of ends are on your motor hoses?

Dan
 

awesome

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Canada seems to be a third world. I will mail you two for $20 plus postage. I can probably pick them up at the local Tractor Supply next time I am there. What kind of ends are on your motor hoses?

Dan
The motor has 2 ORB10 female. My hoses are NPTm 1/4. Do you think they'd have something that wont requirr extra fittings?
 

TheOldHokie

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The motor has 2 ORB10 female. My hoses are NPTm 1/4. Do you think they'd have something that wont requirr extra fittings?
No - that would be asking a lot. They will have to be adapted - fittings are cheap and I have drawers full. A pipe bushing and an ORB to NPT port adapter would do the job.

Dan
 

awesome

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No - that would be asking a lot. They will have to be adapted - fittings are cheap and I have drawers full. A pipe bushing and an ORB to NPT port adapter would do the job.

Dan
I appreciate the offer but I'll pass. I just checked for a shipping estimate on usps and it woud be 30$ USD. It would be the same price to get it from amazon
 

awesome

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Here's the semi-final project

It's working. Let's hope it keeps on working all winter. And let's hope we'll actually have a winter.
 

TheOldHokie

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Here's the semi-final project

It's working. Let's hope it keeps on working all winter. And let's hope we'll actually have a winter.
Looks like you have 1/2" pipe elbows in the ports,. The hydraulic restrictors I linked should fit without the need for adapters.

Dan