L3540 3 Point Issue

[mfgkenney]

Hi folks, I got my government surplus l3540 operating as it should last week. On Wednesday, I decided to hook up my neighbor's bush hog and take care of a neglected section of my property. I had to raise and lower my lift arms many times in that process, and didn't notice any issues until I was done, and noticed that the bush hog was dragging with my lift arms not responding to the controls. I pulled the seat to get a better view of the control valve, linkages, etc and didn't see anything wrong on the surface. All linkages appear to be operating as normal. The wsm is pretty vague when it comes to troubleshooting. Before I start spit balling and purchasing random parts/components, does anyone have any experience or suggestions for troubleshooting this issue? Hydraulic level is good, front hydraulics are working as they should (currently have a snow plow attached).

Thank you all for your help,
Matt

 

[Russell King]

Here is a link to the illustrated parts list

Kubota Tractor Corporation - Illustrated Parts List

- K-PAD - Parts Lists - Illustrated Parts Lists - diagrams

apps.kubotausa.com

There is something called feedback linkage or lever connected between the 3point short upper arm and the control valve. See below for item 150. Make sure it is still connected at both ends

 

[PaulL]

Hydraulic level is my go to here. But usually makes it not go all the way up, rather than not up at all.

 

[mfgkenney]

Here is a link to the illustrated parts list

Kubota Tractor Corporation - Illustrated Parts List

- K-PAD - Parts Lists - Illustrated Parts Lists - diagrams

apps.kubotausa.com

There is something called feedback linkage or lever connected between the 3point short upper arm and the control valve. See below for item 150. Make sure it is still connected at both ends

View attachment 113456

Thank you very much, the feedback rod is connected at both ends, there is some lateral play, maybe 1/8-1/4" in shaft 080 though which may indicate that the connection between shaft 080 and 010 has come undone? There is a complete control block on eBay right now for $500, which I am considering ordering, just don't want to spend a few days pay on something that I might not need.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hi folks, I got my government surplus l3540 operating as it should last week. On Wednesday, I decided to hook up my neighbor's bush hog and take care of a neglected section of my property. I had to raise and lower my lift arms many times in that process, and didn't notice any issues until I was done, and noticed that the bush hog was dragging with my lift arms not responding to the controls. I pulled the seat to get a better view of the control valve, linkages, etc and didn't see anything wrong on the surface. All linkages appear to be operating as normal. The wsm is pretty vague when it comes to troubleshooting. Before I start spit balling and purchasing random parts/components, does anyone have any experience or suggestions for troubleshooting this issue? Hydraulic level is good, front hydraulics are working as they should (currently have a snow plow attached).

Thank you all for your help,
Matt

If it was working then suddenly stopped I would not suspect the valve. More likely something in the hydraulic supply circuit or a problem with the valve control linkage. Start by checking the draft control lever position. Make sure its disengaged.

Dan

 

[mfgkenney]

If it was working then suddenly stopped I would not suspect the valve. More likely something in the hydraulic supply circuit or a problem with the valve control linkage. Start by checking the draft control lever position. Make sure its disengaged.

Dan

Thank you, The tractor doesn't have draft control, which then points to linkage. The fact that my front hydraulics are working leads me to think that the hydraulics are working as they should. I can hook something up to the remote this afternoon to see if it is getting fluid for the sake of my sanity. I am just hesitant to start taking things apart without having parts in hand to put it back together. The tractor sat for 1-2 years before I got it, with a bad proportional control valve (they thought the transmission was blown!) which could indicate broken linkage from being woken up abruptly. Do you know of the interior linkage going bad like that? I haven't been able to find a lot of information on issues of this nature.

Thanks,
Matt

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thank you, The tractor doesn't have draft control, which then points to linkage. The fact that my front hydraulics are working leads me to think that the hydraulics are working as they should. I can hook something up to the remote this afternoon to see if it is getting fluid for the sake of my sanity. I am just hesitant to start taking things apart without having parts in hand to put it back together. The tractor sat for 1-2 years before I got it, with a bad proportional control valve (they thought the transmission was blown!) which could indicate broken linkage from being woken up abruptly. Do you know of the interior linkage going bad like that? I haven't been able to find a lot of information on issues of this nature.

Thanks,
Matt

OK no draft control. I would not jump to (expensive snd time consuming) conclusions. Simple things first. You may have lost hydraulic flow to the 3pt. Check the remotes to make sure they are all in neutral.

Dsn

 

[mfgkenney]

OK no draft control. I would not jump to (expensive snd time consuming) conclusions. Simple things first. You may have lost hydraulic flow to the 3pt. Check the remotes to make sure they are all in neutral.

Dsn

Remote is in neutral, I can hear it when I engage the remote valve. From the schematic in the wsm, it looks like return/bypass pressure from the remote feeds the 3pt. At this point, I am thinking position control valve linkage.

Matt

 

[TheOldHokie]

Remote is in neutral, I can hear it when I engage the remote valve.

You can hearbwhat when you operate the remote? Do you have anyway to test the remotes? Pressure gauge attached to a quick coupler tip is all you need for thst.

One common cause of 3pt failure is a bad loader connection that blocks the power beyond circuit supplying the remotes and 3pt. I would suggest you eliminate that possibility before tearing into the lift.

 

[mfgkenney]

You can hearbwhat when you operate the remote? Do you have anyway to test the remotes? Pressure gauge attached to a quick coupler tip is all you need for thst.

One common cause of 3pt failure is a bad loader connection that blocks the power beyond circuit supplying the remotes and 3pt. I would suggest you eliminate that possibility before tearing into the lift.

I don't have a pressure gauge unfortunately, the harbor freight one that I bought was apparently a single use product. I can pick up a new one when I head to the big city tomorrow. This is what i hear when i actuate the remote valve. I will disconnect the loader quick connects and report back.

thanks,
matt

 

[mfgkenney]

I don't have a pressure gauge unfortunately, the harbor freight one that I bought was apparently a single use product. I can pick up a new one when I head to the big city tomorrow. This is what i hear when i actuate the remote valve. I will disconnect the loader quick connects and report back.

thanks,
matt
https://photos.app.goo.gl/snARj7bribBBFvhLA

Disconnecting and reconnecting my loader quick connects didn't change anything

 

[TheOldHokie]

Disconnecting and reconnecting my loader quick connects didn't change anything

Sounds like the engine loads up when you operate the remote so they are apparently getting flow.

I don't know the details on the GL40 but another fairly common problem is the position control linkage coming loose. I will look at the parts book to see what parts of the external linkage might give a clue on that.

It's just hard to imagine a spool valve going south that suddenly.

Dan

 

[mfgkenney]

I'm still coming up empty on the hitch issue. I stopped at a kubota dealer nearby, the tech didn't seem to think the issue was linkage, he was thinking that the packing in the lift cylinders has gone bad, which sounds plausible to me. He suggested disconnecting the supply hose and see if I get oil out of it. Getting access looks pretty involved, and I can dig into it this weekend. I was thinking, however that if I held up the lift arms, wouldn't the lower section of the cylinders fill with oil so that when I release the lift arms, there would at least be some resistance? I felt resistance with I first lifted them, but didn't feel any after the fact, both lifting and lowering.

Thanks,
Matt

 

[TheOldHokie]

I'm still coming up empty on the hitch issue. I stopped at a kubota dealer nearby, the tech didn't seem to think the issue was linkage, he was thinking that the packing in the lift cylinders has gone bad, which sounds plausible to me. He suggested disconnecting the supply hose and see if I get oil out of it. Getting access looks pretty involved, and I can dig into it this weekend. I was thinking, however that if I held up the lift arms, wouldn't the lower section of the cylinders fill with oil so that when I release the lift arms, there would at least be some resistance? I felt resistance with I first lifted them, but didn't feel any after the fact, both lifting and lowering.

Thanks,
Matt

You can check for oil at the pressure test port.

Dan

 

[mfgkenney]

You can check for oil at the pressure test port.

Dan

That sounds much easier! Especially since I'm fighting daylight. I need to build a garage!

Thanks,
Matt

 

[mfgkenney]

You can check for oil at the pressure test port.

Dan

Is this the procedure? If so, I'm going to have to source that adapter, doesn't look like a common fitting, but a banjo bolt with a hole bored into it.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Is this the procedure? If so, I'm going to have to source that adapter, doesn't look like a common fitting, but a banjo bolt with a hole bored into it.

That's the main pressure relief valve in the outlet block. I think what you will see with that test is a foregone conclusion. The only way you would see pressure is if the lift were operating. The loader is working so you know the pump is producing flow and pressure.

I think you will have a hard time finding that OEM specific test adapter. You could get the same info by teeing your gauge into the loader power beyond hose on the side of the block. Thats the port just sbove that banjo and that connection could be made useing an ordinary 6802 JIC run tee. I just don't see this helping solve your problem.

If you just want to verify flow disconnect that hose and stick it in the transmission filler. I am pretty sure you will see lots of flow when you start the tractor. The problem seems to be that flow is not being used by the 3pt valve.

Dan

 

[mfgkenney]

That's the main pressure relief valve in the outlet block. I think what you will see with that test is a foregone conclusion. The only way you would see pressure is if the lift were operating. The loader is working so you know the pump is producing flow and pressure.

I think you will have a hard time finding that OEM specific test adapter. You could get the same info by teeing your gauge into the loader power beyond hose on the side of the block. Thats the port just sbove that banjo and that connection could be made useing an ordinary 6802 JIC run tee. I just don't see this helping solve your problem.

If you just want to verify flow disconnect that hose and stick it in the transmission filler. I am pretty sure you will see lots of flow when you start the tractor. The problem seems to be that flow is not being used by the 3pt valve.

Dan

View attachment 113787

To be honest, I wasn't too impressed with that tech. I'm all for ruling out simple stuff first when troubleshooting, but I think my trying to lift the arms last night accomplished the same function with less poking and prodding. That guy is definitely paid by the hour. There are two dealers about an hour away, one is pretty much in the middle of nowhere. This one is a little farther away, but is in a more populated area, and has more resources being part of a chain. Plus it gave me the opportunity to go to home depot. The other dealer is In my optimism, I was hoping the service advisor was going to say "oh, it's the ball and socket connector in the internal linkage, run in the back and come back with $100 worth in parts.

At this point, I'm going to run that test, but probably won't tear into that case until spring. I like knowing my equipment is working as it should, but in all reality, winter is coming quickly, and I have too much to do before snow starts falling. My subframe mounted plow is working, and the only 3 point function I have left on my plate is skidding some firewood logs, but I have other tractors. Need to prioritize the greenhouse I told my wife would be built before winter. If I keep her happy, she stays off my back about buying toys!

 

[TheOldHokie]

To be honest, I wasn't too impressed with that tech. I'm all for ruling out simple stuff first when troubleshooting, but I think my trying to lift the arms last night accomplished the same function with less poking and prodding. That guy is definitely paid by the hour. There are two dealers about an hour away, one is pretty much in the middle of nowhere. This one is a little farther away, but is in a more populated area, and has more resources being part of a chain. Plus it gave me the opportunity to go to home depot. The other dealer is In my optimism, I was hoping the service advisor was going to say "oh, it's the ball and socket connector in the internal linkage, run in the back and come back with $100 worth in parts.

It may be something very similar to that ball and socket idea. We just had someone with this problem (different model tractor) who discovered it was a missing roll pin in the control linkage. The lever was not operating the valve. i will have a look at the parts diagrams andcsee whats what there.

Dan

 

[mfgkenney]

Spring is finally here in Maine, and I decided to tear into my hitch. After lots of time cleaning all the rusty gunk off everything, I deemed it safe enough to pop the valve block off the transmission. Almost all the bolts rounded over, and I had to buy a bolt extractor set to use on them.

As it turns out, a little collar that holds the feedback rod in place seems to have rusted away, allowing the feedback rod shaft to back off the ball. I've ordered a replacement collar for both sides of the mechanism, as well as all new bolts, gaskets, o-rings, etc. I'm glad it was something simple.

part 100 on the breakdown is the culprit. Funny how a $4 part can cripple a tractor. I'm just glad than I didn't pay anyone $150 an hour to diagnose the problem.