B7100 HST 4X4 Front wheel locking - Need Help

Amishkingpin · Oct 28, 2012

Fellow OTT'ers,

My B7100 HST 4X4 HST has developed a serious issue today. I put the transmission in 4X4 mode and heard a crunch sound. Then, the front wheel locked up when I tried to move forward. I took it out of 4X4 mode and it will go forward a little before the front wheel locks up. I was in the yard but was able to baby it back to the shed by stopping and going backward for a little bit. The locking was intermittent every 30 feet. Before I call my dealer, I would like to see if this is something I can tackle and repair easily in my garage. I am not a mechanic but able to handle a wrench. Has anyone experienced this issue or perhaps knows what the problem may be. I really don't know where to look first or what steps I should take to identify the issue.

Thanks and appreciate any advice.
AK

Bluegill · Oct 28, 2012

Something in the front end broke. You're goin to have to pull it apart and see what needs replacing.

rparkinson · Oct 28, 2012

May be a good idea to drain the front diff and see if there are any metal shavings on the suspect wheel- get a service manual and tear it down.... sounds like something let go in the differential-

Amishkingpin · Oct 29, 2012

Good idea about getting a manual. Does anyone know where I can get a manual on-line?

rparkinson · Oct 29, 2012

Good luck on that- I have a B7200 and they are a couple hundred bucks.... here is a link to one on ebay now for 13 bucks on cd...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KUBOTA-TRAC...50742?pt=BI_Books_Manuals&hash=item4d06527bd6

But other then that the paper ones go used from 100 bucks on up.... But, if you are planning on keeping the machine you may want to pull the trigger on one... I like to be able to flip real pages myself. Good luck- post what happens with it... I am curious... Ron in Maine

Amishkingpin · Oct 29, 2012

Ron and Bluegill - Thanks for inspiring me to tear into the front end. I jacked up the front axle and rotated the tires, hoping to have it lock up. The tires turned fine and no lock up but what I heard came from the front drive shaft bell housing. I took off the housing and metal dust started to pour out as I was taking the last of the 3 bolts loose. Then, the pieces fell out. I have attach pictures from what I found. I thanked my lucky stars! This looks better than what I was afraid I might find.

Now, I guess I need to go to a dealer and order these parts. Are they cheaper on-line, does anyone know?

rparkinson · Oct 29, 2012

So what happened? broke the yoke? some serious carnage there... thats a hell of alot better then chewing up a ring&pinion...

Amishkingpin · Oct 29, 2012

Yep, broke the yoke. I bought this tractor used several years ago from a Landscaper with 2000 hours and I am sure it has seen hell and back. Then, Last week I had to drag a trencher through some serious mud. The stress took it's toll. Better it broke now than in a snow bank this winter, eh?

I better check the other yoke on the transmission too, it may be getting ready to break too or I am sure there is slop in the joints. Man, I was so happy to find it here than having to dig deeper.

Bluegill · Oct 29, 2012

Good deal. Easy fix!

Amishkingpin · Oct 29, 2012

I got the drive shaft off the tractor but have an issue getting a roll pin the seems to be sheared off in the transmission spindle. I have tried different punches to knock it out but it is in there tight. I can slide the drive shaft back on but won't be able to put in a new roll pin if I can't get the sheared one out. Could I use a cotter pin and slide that inside the roll pin to hold the drive shaft on the transmission? Does that cause I problem or will the Cotter pin suffice to do the trick of holding the drive shaft on?

Profnohair · Oct 29, 2012

Amishkingpin said:
I got the drive shaft off the tractor but have an issue getting a roll pin the seems to be sheared off in the transmission spindle. I have tried different punches to knock it out but it is in there tight. I can slide the drive shaft back on but won't be able to put in a new roll pin if I can't get the sheared one out. Could I use a cotter pin and slide that inside the roll pin to hold the drive shaft on the transmission? Does that cause I problem or will the Cotter pin suffice to do the trick of holding the drive shaft on?

I had the same problem removing the throttle pedal on my G6200HST. What I did was drilled out the roll pin with a progressively larger bit through the center of the pin. Make sure to use high quality bits if this is attempted because that is some hard metal the roll pins are made of. I hope you have the clearance to do it with out the shavings going in a spot that they can't without creating more damage.

rparkinson · Oct 29, 2012

He said it. Drill it, just make sure you have the appropriate size bit, and drill strait- should not be a big deal.... Dont use a cotter pin, they are soft and not meant for much force as far as shearing them off....

Amishkingpin · Oct 29, 2012

Excellent idea. I can access the roll pin from underneath the tractor, tight but should work.

Question: I am going to stop by the local dealership to order parts but was wondering if anyone has had luck ordering on-line and was there a substantial savings over purchasing from a dealership?

rparkinson · Oct 30, 2012

I don't know that there is that much of a difference, but with something like that it is either going to be used oem or a dealer. I have done some business with Messicks and they seem to be a good outfit. Very helpful and where I am (mid coast Maine) the parts are on my step in 2 days. So if I am not in a big rush, I don't have to mess up the weekend going 25-30miles to the dealer, or fly there on lunch break... I have never had them mess up an order yet. And things like filters, or any general maintenance stuff I order a few and keep on the shelf-

Bluegill · Oct 30, 2012

Messick's is a very good place to order parts from, but from my experience not much cheaper than my local dealer and my dealer gets parts in pretty quick... I also like to support local when I can.

lsmurphy · Oct 30, 2012

Amishkingpin said:
I got the drive shaft off the tractor but have an issue getting a roll pin the seems to be sheared off in the transmission spindle. I have tried different punches to knock it out but it is in there tight. I can slide the drive shaft back on but won't be able to put in a new roll pin if I can't get the sheared one out. Could I use a cotter pin and slide that inside the roll pin to hold the drive shaft on the transmission? Does that cause I problem or will the Cotter pin suffice to do the trick of holding the drive shaft on?

Roll pins are a common item........NAPA........Fastenal......etc. Use matching drill bit.

Roll pins are hardened.......cotter pins are not sufficient.

There are specific punches for roll pins......very important to get a set.

lsmurphy · Oct 30, 2012

Also...

Drill the center out of the roll pin first. Then use a puch to drive out the remnant of the pin. Then drill out for the larger roll pin.....do not try to drill the larger hole all in one shot....drill will wander off.......trust me.

You may find that once you remove the sheared pin you need not drill out for a larger pin unless the original hole is wallowed.

Use anti-sieze when installing new pin.

Amishkingpin · Oct 30, 2012

I visited my dealership today. After they examined the pieces of the drive shaft they shook their heads and say they never seen one that bad. They said it couldn't be repaired even with buying pieces to replace the broke parts and reassembling the drive shaft. They priced me a new shaft for $610 before taxes. I priced the drive shaft on Messick's website for $519 which includes the shipping to Ohio. Seems like a better option to save $100 and with you guys great advice I think I can tackle removing the stuck roll pin.

The dealer did give their best pitch trying to sell me a new B 2920 tractor and trading my broken B7100. They drove one into the shop and had me sit on it. Very tempting but $15,000 is a chunk of change for a nice new tractor versus spending $600 to get the old B7100 back in operation even with 2,100 hours.

Still I wonder what deal the dealer would give me for my tractor?

lsmurphy · Oct 30, 2012

Amishkingpin said:
I visited my dealership today. After they examined the pieces of the drive shaft they shook their heads and say they never seen one that bad. They said it couldn't be repaired even with buying pieces to replace the broke parts and reassembling the drive shaft. They priced me a new shaft for $610 before taxes. I priced the drive shaft on Messick's website for $519 which includes the shipping to Ohio. Seems like a better option to save $100 and with you guys great advice I think I can tackle removing the stuck roll pin.

The dealer did give their best pitch trying to sell me a new B 2920 tractor and trading my broken B7100. They drove one into the shop and had me sit on it. Very tempting but $15,000 is a chunk of change for a nice new tractor versus spending $600 to get the old B7100 back in operation even with 2,100 hours.

Still I wonder what deal the dealer would give me for my tractor?

Can you post some pics of your damaged shaft?

As for the shaft itself.....nothin more than round stock and two yokes. Driveline shop here could have the shaft and yokes trued up and welded for less than $150. This leaves the splined yoke at the trans......what's that cost?

This ain't $600 worth of rocket science.

Over size the shaft and have the ends turned down on a lathe for a press fit......if you can weld it up yourself........parts and shop cost less than $100. Hydraulic ram is available in various sizes and already straight and chromed and best of all it's cheap.

Amishkingpin · Oct 30, 2012

lsmurphy,

That is a great idea. Here are some pics.

AK

B7100 HST 4X4 Front wheel locking - Need Help

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