Can you weld on the tractor if you remove the battery cables first? Some time this winter I would like to make a winch bracket on the front bumper. I also want to weld some valve stem guards on the front rim's as I have already knocked one around and had to replace it.
Welding
- Thread starter Gary
- Start date
Welcome Gary and you have a very nice tractor that will serve you well and for a long time and that bring me to you question. Yes and I even like to remove the battery and load test it during any repair I'm making at the time. I fact, I even acid proof the battery tray and place a jumper between the positive and negative lead forcing any stray inductive current flow through a fuse or circuit breaker for protection to IC Circuits. I'm going to assume you are a Weldor and know strength of materials and that you have given great thought as to where you will structural weld in the winch supports and this is not part of your question to the members. We have several excellent Weldors on this site that will jump in and add to my post if this is the case. The excellent powder coatings painted at the factory will have be removed with a grinder to ensure a low resistant ground and I have learned over the years with MIG and SMAW processes to weld toward the ground clamp for good puddle control and a pretty bead cover pass. 
These are just my suggestions and you can tackle this project with any welding process of your choice just be safe and careful with current flow from your Welding machine. Above all else remember, that your rubber air filled tires act as insulators to ground on a tractor. So when welding on a tractor never put any part of your body in series with the positive electrode and the negative ground return to the welding machine.
These are just my suggestions and you can tackle this project with any welding process of your choice just be safe and careful with current flow from your Welding machine. Above all else remember, that your rubber air filled tires act as insulators to ground on a tractor. So when welding on a tractor never put any part of your body in series with the positive electrode and the negative ground return to the welding machine.
Don't know if you plan on taking the tire off the rim. At least let the air out. I know a guy that was welding a rim with an inflated tire. The heat from welding increased the air pressure enough for it to blow up.
I thought it would be a good idea to let the air out before welding on the guards. I wish they would put them on from the factory like there is on the rear rims.
Not sure how I want to go about the winch bracket. I was thinking someone on here may have already done this with some pointers. I would like to make it a bolt on,either way I"ll have to give some serious thought before attempting.
The reason for thinking about the winch a friend spent most of a day with 5
other people and 2 other tractors. They stuck the other 2 trying to get him out. He said a winch would have been nice.
Not sure how I want to go about the winch bracket. I was thinking someone on here may have already done this with some pointers. I would like to make it a bolt on,either way I"ll have to give some serious thought before attempting.
The reason for thinking about the winch a friend spent most of a day with 5
other people and 2 other tractors. They stuck the other 2 trying to get him out. He said a winch would have been nice.
Gary I agree with all above vic, ob1,and pdr. I am not real technical but was a certified boilermaker and pipefitter a long time and still weld for myself. If you dont take the tires off make sure you keep valve stem downward so it will be easier for you to weld. The heat will build up a couple extra pounds(according how long you weld on it) so let some air out . I sometimes will weld on 1 wheel to tack valve stem protector in place go to another swap out on them alternating will let the heat dispensate and gives it time to cool off RUBBER BURNS AND MELTS Keep ground close, same wheel. If you have a choice mig or stick I like stick if its rusty clean it use 6010 if clean I like E 7018 the wheels are usually steel Others may not agree with this but stick is stronger than mig.We proved that to the lincoln company a few years ago welding on lifting lugs at a dam. If I can be of any help let me know.I would use bolts on wench in case you need to remove the plate if possible. If you weld it and have a stick welder I would use it. Wish you were closer we would build that bad boy Hope you understand what I am say Im not good explaining in words.Good Luck
Yes as was stated by Service Dept Vic keep the ground close. I work in a steel mill and have seen my share of bearings go bad after crossing through them. I have used the 6010 and 7018 combination many times. Not sure when I will attempt this but if it turns out I'll post a pic or two.