LED Wiring questions

JackJ

Member

Equipment
BX1870-1
Mar 14, 2016
264
3
18
Indiana
Light bars installed; was LED Wiring questions

I've bought two small cheap LED lightbars off Amazon, one 36 watts that will face forward, and one 18 watt that will face backwards. I know nothing about electric wiring--can I just splice the + and - of each light bar together and connect them to the wiring harness that way? I think this means I'd be wiring them in parallel, and especially since they're different wattages, I don't know if that's ok.

Second question: They're going under the top of my ROPS, which I need to raise/lower each time I use the tractor in order to get in into my garage. All the flexing of the wire has me a little concerned, especially when the weather turns cold. Any type of wire I should look for in this application? The wiring harness I bought isn't long enough, so I've got to buy something to extend it regardless, and want something that will last. I was just planning on using wire ties to attach the wiring to the outside of the ROPS, leaving enough slack for raising/lowering.

Thanks for any advice!

Jack
 
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85Hokie

Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Jul 13, 2013
10,348
2,170
113
Bedford - VA
Lets start with question one -

NO do not tap into your Kubota system, if something goes amiss, then you will be up the creek without a boat or a paddle.

Create your OWN separate circuit. AS for splicing together, I am assuming you want them BOTH on at the same time??? IF so - that will be fine, no harm there at all.

AS for the flex, any "good" wire will not have a problem in the cold, but here is the easy part, right were the ROPS folds, allow a little built in curve there, so when it is folded, the natural curve is already there, so when you zip tie it to the ROPS - there is spot that is loose RIGHT at the bend in the ROPS.

AS for splicing wire together, MAKE sure the wire you are going to splice is at LEAST the same diameter (or bigger) than what is already there with the kit.......

I am a big believer of soldering and heat tape, make a much better joint - and even after the wires are installed, run some wire loom around the entire set of wires and zip tie them down.

https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-...UTF8&qid=1477171288&sr=8-2&keywords=wire+loom

IF you want direct help - PM, be glad to walk you down the path of wiring. I would run an entirely new circuit with fuse and relay.
 

bxray

Member

Equipment
Bx25d
Dec 1, 2014
712
2
18
Cleveland, ohio
Putting them in parallel is what you want to do. They will both get 12 volts and pull the wattage/amps they need. I used outdoor rubber cord for the cold and velcro.

They will pull 4.5 amps. You will have to find a power source. The power port is 10 amos on bx25. An adaptor and switch will work.
I used a fused relay from Amazon
Changed the fuse to 10 amp.

https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Light...TF8&qid=1477189525&sr=1-5&keywords=fuse+relay

I soldered the wires exept at the bottom of the ropes. I used disconnect crimps so if needed I can disconnect them.

Ray
 

lordulrich

New member

Equipment
BX 2370, 60 MMM, Loader, Front Mount Snow Blower, Landpride 3 pt blade, Tiller
Jul 28, 2016
82
0
0
SE Minnesota
For wire you want wire rated as MTW (machine tool wire), it is more flexible than standard stranded wire and rated for repetitive movement, the jacket is also typically softer. The "hack" option would be to use an old extension cord, it is more flexible than most stranded wire.
 

JackJ

Member

Equipment
BX1870-1
Mar 14, 2016
264
3
18
Indiana
Thanks for all the help!

Here are the lights I used:

Forward facing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CL0ZPUC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Rear facing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018273VOE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Attached with two sets of these magnets:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008H40U10/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used the wiring harness that came with the first of the above light units--it includes a relay and a fuse, and best part of all is that the switch is a perfect fit for the hole in my dash where the cruise control would be, and I don't have cruise control.

For wire, I went to the local Ace Hardware, and they had some very nice looking cord rated oil and water resistant, and highly flexible. But $.99/ft seemed too much, so I bought a two prong 25 ft round power tool extension cord for $7.50. I ended cutting off the male end of the cord and soldering it to both sets of wire from the two light units, so they can be removed without too much hassle.

My tractor stays inside, so I'm not super worried about waterproofing, though I do hope to use it to move snow, sometimes in the dark where I'll be using the lights, of course. I've taped the plug joint with electrical tape. All the other connections are soldered and covered with heatshrink, and sometimes more tape. I did use wire loom as recommended.

Hardest part by far was routing the cord underneath the tractor. Thought that would have been fairly straightforward, but space is tight underneath, and getting to the dash was kinda tricky.

Overall, I'm very happy with how it turned out. I wasn't looking for screaming bright, but enough to move firewood and snow in the dark. I was expecting a little more light up front than what I got, but it really is plenty for my purposes, and probably too much when I'm off the tractor putting wood in the loader.

Thanks again for the assistance. Here are the requisite pics:
 

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spjohndro

New member

Equipment
BX 1870
Aug 9, 2015
1
0
0
Poland, ME
Re: Light bars installed; was LED Wiring questions

Thanks for the post. May I ask how you attached the magnets to the ROPS? Did you screw directly into the ROPS or attach in a different way? I ask because I really like the idea of using magnets. Thanks in advance!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

JackJ

Member

Equipment
BX1870-1
Mar 14, 2016
264
3
18
Indiana
Re: Light bars installed; was LED Wiring questions

Thanks for the post. May I ask how you attached the magnets to the ROPS? Did you screw directly into the ROPS or attach in a different way?
The magnets are bolted to the mounts for the light bars with machine screws and nylock nuts. It's magnetism that holds them onto the rops. Used the tractor quite a bit this week and the lights haven't moved at all. Very happy with the magnets.
 

jcy110

New member

Equipment
BX22 with LA210 loader and BT600 hoe
Aug 22, 2015
63
0
0
Whitehouse Station, NJ
I have 2 48w square 16 led lights (22.67 for BOTH! free shipping) one on the right and one on the left of the ROPS, I can rotate them backward or forward. They also are far apart enough so as not to create a shadow from my big head. This is the wiring harness I used from Northern Tool. Just hook it to your battery and you are good to go, wind the wire around the ROPS since it is very long and wire tie it.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PC-48W-Square-LED-Work-Light-Flood-Beam-Lamp-For-Tractor-Offroad-Truck-Jeep-ATV-/221740307818?hash=item33a0c0956a:g:ypsAAOSwMtxXurzZ&vxp=mtr

I am going to have 2 piece brackets made to go around the ROPS and use pond liner as an isolator to keep the brackets from scratching the ROPS. I will have pics of the install when they are made. 2 lights will face forward and 2 will face the rear with a on/off/on switch to select front or rear since all 4 would draw more current than the relay that comes with the wiring harness would handle.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200596193_200596193

I used Anderson Power Pole Connectors so they can come on and off easily if needed or replaced, link here>>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sermos-Connectors-Anderson-Powerpole-30-Amp-Power-Pole-10-Pairs-/251252105677?hash=item3a7fcae1cd:m:myt96V00IFrq4dyiG_KmvkQ

The difference with the LED lights is like night and day, pun intended!



 
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