Block heater install (Freeze Plug type)

Will take some horrible pics. as I go.

While this is on an L225, I'm guessing the install will be similar to many Kubota Tractor engines.

Plug to be replaced with heater plug is on right side of engine when viewed same way you determine left and right side of a car engine (looking along the engine when standing at end where transmission/bellhousing is mounted ) It is mostly behind the Hydraulic pump that is attached to end of Injection Pump on this model.

Perspective: Looking at block w/plug little rearward of hydraulic pump attached to IP. Gray pipe goes from Hydraulic pump downward before heading back toward rear of tractor

Looks like a total PITA to install due to hydraulic pump being in the way. Might can work around it. Hope so.

Anyone done such a job that can offer some details? Have searched but no real details offered besides hints on plug removal methods. AKA no hints on if hydraulic pump and or lines must be removed to get to the plug.

Plug Removal options

1. Instructions that came with this unit (32mm zerostart generic freeze plug heater # 3100013) says to tap one side of freeze plug till opposite side rotates outward enough to grab with pliers so you can pull it out.

2. Knock the unit into the block and let it fall into the bottom of a space in the coolant jacket (suggested by another user here)

3. insert a screw into the plug and use slide hammer or?? to yank it out. (also suggested by another user here)

Will update on how I go about it after I determine which way looks best according to space available.

Didn't trust The #2 method (Knock it all way in and let it fall inside) Was concerned that the plug would NOT find a home inside the coolant jacket out of the way of the heating element of heater plug or that the old plug in there could impede coolant flow.

#3 method (slide hammer) might have been easier IFF you have a LONG drill bit to get thru the plumbing and IFF you have a slide hammer. I've got neither.

Instructions was to drain all coolant. This L225 had no petcock for draining on the radiator. Block drain is below the plug. Decided to not open it though cause figured this removal process would end up causing the coolant above the plug to drain out anyway.... Thus, I didn't worry about it. Just let it drain out once the plug moved enough to let it leak by.

Good news:

Sooo... Tried #1 method suggested by Zero Start. Worked like a charm.

Perspective: Look at plug now rotated partially and coolant leaking out around it.

Was not easy... had to wiggle, jiggle, spin, pry etc. the plug to get the most advantageous position to remove. Then tug on it by someone heavier than I (I'm 150lb) and who can squeeze the pliers. Hand was recently injured enough that could not even swing the hammer; much less squeeze pliers. Luckily my roommate is closer to 250lb and does construction.

With newly bought 11" long ass handle big needle nose pliers we got it out. Took about 45min total but that included a 15min drive to auto parts to get said "long ass handled big Needle Nose plier"



Bad news:

This Zero Start unit wont work as NIW figured. It's maybe 1/8th inch too deep. Heating element hits the cylinder wall behind the plug. Others in here had said they used the KAT's 11461 unit but it was since discontinued.


Solved?
So for shits and Grins I search found that Autozone still list the 11461 model sold by KATs. Called them and they took order and said it will be here Wed.

OH... and here is a surprise. It is also listed part for 2000 a VW Golf!!!

PS the part search for the 11461 got interesting about here. Split that discussion out into a new thread so not to distract from mostly install info in this thread

coachgeo said:

Went back to another thread that had listed a part by KATs 11461 that was said to be discontinued. Figured I'd search for it anyway since the alternative I hoped would work... does not. Low and behold..... Oriely's website list the Kat's model. Called them and they said "IF AVAILABLE" they are checking. Like to use them cause prices are good and they are next to my work....

Click to expand...

Oriely's contacted their source ( I assume KATs ). They were told not available... UNLESS your willing to spend another 35$ on something else sold by KATs as well. Counter guy.. who may be blowing smoke... said this is means KATs can and will make one up if it you make it worth their time. Found this interesting.

Does the L235 have the same issue? Could just order two.

Will shop total cost and compare between this idea and trying to piece one together thru Tisco Parts linked above

D2Cat said:

Here's how I determine what is the left side of an engine, "On a RWD vehicle the engine is mounted front to rear. Sitting in the driver's seat, the left side of the engine is on the left side of the car."

So this sentence confuses me. "Plug to be replaced with heater plug is on left side of engine when viewed same way you determine left and right side of a car engine (from front of vehicle looking toward rear)..."

What side are you working on? The injection pump is on the right side, isn't it?

Click to expand...

My bad I wrote that wrong. Confused myself. Will fix this in my previous post

Re: L225 block heater?

North Idaho Wolfman said:

Coachgeo,
....

Now for the next issue, Normally you would have put the heater on the other side, it's wide open and pump doesn't interfere with the adapter.
Now you will need to remove the hydraulic pump in order to drive in the adapter to install the heater, before removing the pump , measure the distance behind the pump, pipes to the block to make sure you have enough room for the heater, if you do not then you will have to reinstall the freeze plug and move to the other side, The left side, the (US) drivers side, the starter side.

Click to expand...

So far have not had to remove Hydraulic pump using the port on the right side of block. Not that hard to work around. Granted I've not yet attempted to drive the bushing in. Don't think install task will be an issue now that have experience working around the pump when removing freeze plug. As to enough room for it all to fit on the right side? Hope it does work cause.... there is no freeze plug ports on the left side of this L225 D1100 engine to use instead. least not on mine.

Had seen in one of the other threads on this topic it was said to use a port on the left side but I could not find any. Thought maybe we were calling left and right from a different orientation. Anyway went with the right side because none on the left.

On the right side there is my guess three. One by pump that am attempting to use. One right next to IP and Im guessing another behind the IP. (One centered on each Cylinder)

There is some in the head on left next to each exhaust port but they are in the 20mm? size range. Will get pictures later.

The engine heater linked to above is I believe what I ordered. It and the KAT's & Tisco 11461 setup appear to all be the same thing. I ordered the KATs. In the thread on my research dissecting the part #'s it shows that Tisco list the 11461 superseding the ones you linked above. (11461 contains the 11461B press in bushing and a screw in heating element # GE360) So far I've not found ANY other press in bushings sold by anyone so I suspect this same tapered bushing is used from 30mm thru 35mm press in freeze port heater setups.

OK here is left side of engine. there is some approx 20mm press in ports in head by each exhaust port... and one 10mm? low on the block.

None behind the starter that could see. There is ( upper right first pic) the screw in port for a sensor. Not sure if it is temp or oil pressure installed in it. Are my eyes deceiving me?

Well..... ok now I'm embarrassed. This engine is not badly dirty, but just dirty enough that it TOTALLY masked the left side freeze plugs. Completely camouflaged; filled with dry dust making them same color as block. Looked at the engine a good 50 times and just now discovered them.

below is camouflage in its full glory

Going to install here soon now that the 11461 is here. In the KAT's install instructions it says to use "Locktite" on it (even though there is no threads). I was surprised it mentioned it by brand name... yet no strength/grade of locktite was recommended.

Will a Medium locktite like product be fine? Have on hand a Harbor Freight (Red/Medium) or should I get a more heavy duty?

http://www.harborfreight.com/threadlocker-no-42-10-ml-medium-strength.html

Got green locktitefor non threaded. Will update.