Tightening rear wheel hub

mikkeeh · Apr 20, 2015

Found the noise I was hearing was from a loose hub. I removed the wheel,and hub and wedges and cleaned everything. Now my problem. Both wedges are notched...I assume one is so the bolt head wont turn when trying to loosen the nut. The problem is...BOTH are notched...so when you try to tighten the nut...all the load is on the edges of the lockwasher.
And does anyone know the torque spec on this bolt?

Tooljunkie · Apr 20, 2015

So, this is on the hub, of what model machine? I wouldnt think a lockwasher is helping you at all. Are these keepers in every hole?
Perhaps a look at a workshop or parts manual may help

mikkeeh · Apr 21, 2015

Sorry..this is on a B7500. Illustrated parts here http://kpadweb.kubota.co.jp/kpad2/PartsInfo.do?bookCd=100K0848&funcCd=&figNo=R11002&dispType=2

The manual calls them cotters. The bolt goes thu both and tightens against the axle. Theres a boss cut into them to capture the head of the bolt. My problem is, .the boss is cut into both pieces, thus capturing the bolt AND the nut...and making them impossible to tighten. Maybe the original owner ( Im 2nd) changed them with the wrong parts????? Doesn't make sense to me.

kubotasam · Apr 21, 2015

Are there two on the other side without the boss cut into them?

Lil Foot · Apr 21, 2015

Link doesn't work & pics are too small to see any detail.

B7500 tractor · Jun 12, 2015

Just got my B7500 this spring, loader, mower and back hoe. Great unit. However when I had the back hoe on which weighs a lot I noticed a sound coming from the rear wheel. After pulling the bolt out of the hub I could see the wedges (cotters) were worn. I ordered new ones, Kubota part # 6C190-17452. $58 bucks for both wheel at the local dealer. They were different than the old ones but worked great, problem solved. The old ones had a boss on each cotter which are to be facing in the same direction, with the bolt head in the boss. When you take the old ones out look at them close, the beveled side should look like the entire surface has been seated on the axle. If it is shiny on only part of the bevel, replace it. P. S. Check your bolt? and coat the new cotters on the round sides with no seize, they will slide right in. Thanks.

Blkvoodoo · Jun 13, 2015

I JUST did this last night on my B2400, knew I should have taken pix !

I had to pull the hub to replace axle seal. The pinch wedges are identical, in that one side has been "notched" and the other end is smooth.

One wedge goes on either side of hub bore, but the notched end on the bolt head side is external, the smooth side on the nut/washer end is external, notch inside the bore.

Lug nuts, and pinch bolt and nut are 22mm (or tight 7/8" ) bolt head should locate into the notched cotter and NOT spin, when tightening, nut and washer should sit flat on smooth end of wedge.

The unfortunate is that if you've run loose, you may need to replace the wedge "cotters"

Should also be a pin that goes thru the hub and axle

mikkeeh · Jun 13, 2015

I found a parts diagram thet showed what you guys are describing. Problem is, whay I had, had recess for the bolt head cut on BOTH sides. Not sure if they were made wrong from the factory, or the PO changed the wedges with non-Kubota parts. I ended up grinding one side flat, so I could tighten the nut. It worked OK. If it loosens again, I'll get the updated wedges.

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Tightening rear wheel hub

mikkeeh

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