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Old 03-15-2010, 08:00 PM   #1
k4me
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Location: Erie, CO USA
Equipment: b7100hst (early)
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Default B7100 axle/hub question

Hello,

Still learning my new to me B7100. While doing some dirt moving today, I realized that my rear wheels felt kind of "loose". Stopped, looked and realized that I may have just found another problem area! Look at my attached pics - looks like my right axle/hub has a large amount of play between the hex axle and the wheel. My left axle seems to have a different hub setup. Is the left wheel hub a "fix" for a sloppy axle/wheel fit? Or am I possibly missing some parts here somewhere?

Thanks for any insight!!

PS Just looked at those pics. Yikes - guess I wasn't holding the camera very still!! sorry, hope you can make out enough to see what I'm asking about!
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Last edited by k4me; 03-15-2010 at 08:05 PM.
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Old 03-15-2010, 08:16 PM   #2
handyman
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Default Re: B7100 axle/hub question

I checked my 1983 B7100 mine looks like the top 2 pics. Looks someone might have done a repair on the bottom pics. Vic or someone else will probably jump in. I beleive some did a repair on bottom pics.handy

Last edited by handyman; 03-15-2010 at 08:31 PM. Reason: add comment
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Old 03-15-2010, 08:21 PM   #3
handyman
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Default Re: B7100 axle/hub question

Forgot but the large bolt on the 2nd pic is to tighten up on the axle.handy
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Old 03-15-2010, 10:15 PM   #4
dusty-t
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Default Re: B7100 axle/hub question

Hi K4me. It looks like they bought a new hub for one side and not the other. I replaced the ones on my B7200. It costs about $100.00 per side. And yes they were a great improvement. No more wobbling down the road. Dusty
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Old 03-16-2010, 04:57 AM   #5
k4me
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Default Re: B7100 axle/hub question

Thanks, Handy and Dusty.

Dusty, do your new hubs look like the one on my tractors left side (that is the gold colored one - it looks like a more substantial, cast iron piece. the one on my right axle looks more like a thick piece of bent and welded sheet metal, if that makes sense.)
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Old 03-16-2010, 06:28 AM   #6
dusty-t
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Default Re: B7100 axle/hub question

The old ones on the B7200 looked pretty much the same as the new ones just old and wornout. The only issue I had with the new ones was the bolts on the hub were really close going into the rim. The new ones were pretty heavy duty for a 17 hp tractor. As long as your axle shaft isn't to worn they should fix the problem. And if the new one fixed the other side you should be good. Dusty
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Old 03-16-2010, 06:58 AM   #7
k4me
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Default Re: B7100 axle/hub question

Just had another thought to add to this. I have the turf wheel/tire setup on my tractor. The ag tires are 16 inch, while the turf is a 15 inch size. I wouldn't at first think there would be a difference in the hubs, but thought I'd ask if anyone knows if there is a difference.
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Old 03-16-2010, 04:35 PM   #8
dusty-t
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Default Re: B7100 axle/hub question

I wouldn't think so, if the tires were for a b7100 then you would think they would match the rims to the tractor. BUT I have been wrong before. Maybe Vic will spot this, he would know. Dusty
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Old 03-16-2010, 07:24 PM   #9
RDR
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Default Re: B7100 axle/hub question

I wouldn't think the hubs would be different either. I have the front tires from an older Kubota 4x4 on my B6100E. All I know is they sat in a lean to for many years. I got the rears (13.6 x 24) and fronts (7-6) ag tires for $50.

I was to cheap to even price the hubs. I made some shim stock to tighten them up. $100 a piece makes me feel good about the shims.
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Old 03-16-2010, 07:58 PM   #10
Bellinghamster
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Default Re: B7100 axle/hub question

The newer cast hub is Kubota P/N H6640-17300 (as far as I can determine), and is touted by many as a significant improvement over the original welded steel strap clamp style (PN 66704-17150). Apparently they're interchangeable - now obvious since your tractor has one of each!

My old style hubs (B7100DT) are too loose and worn for my liking (thanks to the previous owner's lack of torquing skills), but not nearly as loose as yours appears in the picture! I stuffed in some sheetmetal shims but they keep working their way out. I'd try building up the inside with weld if I could just figure out a way to grind it flat/to fit. I suppose a couple hours with a flat file would do it... In the mean time I may just tack the shims to encourage them to stay put.
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