Since it looks like it's all but certain I'll be replacing the clutch in my B2150, and I've never "split a tractor" before, I'm wondering what the best approach is. Looks like my B7100 wouldn't be too bad, but the B2150 is a comparatively large compact and my impression is that this is likely one of those things where there are some tricks I would be far better off knowing than not before starting.
It seems removing the loader is a given.
To begin with, it looks like the best place to separate the loader frame is at the bottom of the front tie bracket, leaving the majority of the frame connected to the rear half. , though it also occurred to me that the loader might be useful to support the rear half when disconnected.
Then separate the remaining hydraulic "bridges", remove a collection of links, springs, panels, wires, etc as necessary, as well as the front drive.
Finally "split" the tractor by removing a dozen or so bolts at the bell housing while supporting both sides of the joint.
So here is the first experience question that comes to my mind (assuming I'm not off base already). Is it generally better to move the front forward, or the rear back? Seems the front is more physically manageable, but then you've got to deal with front axle instability at the pivot. So maybe make the front fixed side (blocked and stabilized) and roll the back away? I figure which ever end moves, I'll support with my gantry A-frame while moving. Other suggestions?
The service manual indicates what seems quite a complex "table" and alignment/setting jigs for setting up the dual clutch assembly on the bench. Anyone know anything about this? Anyone have dimensions, or maybe alternatives? The pictures in my service manual are so poor, I don't see how I could possibly make up the jigs to provide the reference points for the settings indicated.
Finally, assuming I get that far, getting those big heavy sections lined back up going together seems like it's going to be a real bear. Is it as bad as it seems, or does it generally just slide together on alignment pins or the like?
It seems removing the loader is a given.
To begin with, it looks like the best place to separate the loader frame is at the bottom of the front tie bracket, leaving the majority of the frame connected to the rear half. , though it also occurred to me that the loader might be useful to support the rear half when disconnected.
Then separate the remaining hydraulic "bridges", remove a collection of links, springs, panels, wires, etc as necessary, as well as the front drive.
Finally "split" the tractor by removing a dozen or so bolts at the bell housing while supporting both sides of the joint.
So here is the first experience question that comes to my mind (assuming I'm not off base already). Is it generally better to move the front forward, or the rear back? Seems the front is more physically manageable, but then you've got to deal with front axle instability at the pivot. So maybe make the front fixed side (blocked and stabilized) and roll the back away? I figure which ever end moves, I'll support with my gantry A-frame while moving. Other suggestions?
The service manual indicates what seems quite a complex "table" and alignment/setting jigs for setting up the dual clutch assembly on the bench. Anyone know anything about this? Anyone have dimensions, or maybe alternatives? The pictures in my service manual are so poor, I don't see how I could possibly make up the jigs to provide the reference points for the settings indicated.
Finally, assuming I get that far, getting those big heavy sections lined back up going together seems like it's going to be a real bear. Is it as bad as it seems, or does it generally just slide together on alignment pins or the like?
