B6000 Wheel collar / axle bolt thing-a-me, questions

SMac · Sep 6, 2013

I'm trying to widen the rear track on my new to me B6000.

The locking pins that go through the collar and axle came out easily, but the big nut that locks onto the flat (with the spring which I'm guessing is to prevent vibration loosening) is stuck on the LHS wheel. The RHS came out "easily"* enough.

So couple of Qs:
- what is the correct name of this assembly? (Sorry if this has been covered, but I didn't know what to search for)
- are they both normally threaded? (I can't see why they'd use a left hand thread, but before I "monster it", I thought I'd check!)
- is this a common problem?
- any tips? (I've tried soaking in penetrating oil, and heat so far)

Thanks

Simon

lsmurphy · Sep 6, 2013

It's referred to as a hub.

Yes they are both standard RH thread. Soak with oil for several days. Try an impact if you have one. Use heat if that does not work. Drill out as a last resort.

The hub is usually lose, IOWs the hub wobbles on the axle, there are threads here of guys being concerned about the wobble, so the fact that yours is so tight you cannot remove it is somewhat unusual I would think.

Might try using a hammer to tap (NOT beat) the hub off the axle, may want to soak the axle down too to see if it will loosen up.

They are not cheap, $150 US, so see if you can salvage it.

lsmurphy · Sep 6, 2013

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Kubota-...=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item3ccbd743a7

SMac · Sep 6, 2013

lsmurphy said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Kubota-...=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item3ccbd743a7

They are different to mine. (The nut is directly perpendicular to the center of the axle) but I can see how that would work.

I will try your other tips.

I'm not sure I can get an impact driver onto the nut, as there's hardly a lot of space between the nut and the rim. I guess I could separate the wheel from the hub and I could get in there, though I only have an 18v battery one, which I doubt would shift it. (I have already exploded a 1/2" drive ratchet trying to loosen the bolt, I'm going to buy a big breaker bar today)

I haven't tried to see if I can get the hub to slide off with my gear pullers without loosening the nut. Hopefully this will relieve the pressure, + I can get some PO into the thread from the other side.

A new hub is probably 10% of what I paid for the tractor, and as I don't have a FEL, it really was just to add a little extra margin of safety. So another option is to leave them set as they are, esp as I have no wobble.

Thanks again

Si

lsmurphy · Sep 6, 2013

Yeah, I would take the wheel off.

Those hubs can be found used, the old style like you have.

At some point you'll want it lose/off........to replace a seal or what have you......worth the effort but not worth the damage if you cannot. If it ain't broke don't fix it........guess this applies here.

hodge · Sep 6, 2013

SMac said:
They are different to mine. (The nut is directly perpendicular to the center of the axle) but I can see how that would work.

I will try your other tips.

I'm not sure I can get an impact driver onto the nut, as there's hardly a lot of space between the nut and the rim. I guess I could separate the wheel from the hub and I could get in there, though I only have an 18v battery one, which I doubt would shift it. (I have already exploded a 1/2" drive ratchet trying to loosen the bolt, I'm going to buy a big breaker bar today)

I haven't tried to see if I can get the hub to slide off with my gear pullers without loosening the nut. Hopefully this will relieve the pressure, + I can get some PO into the thread from the other side.

A new hub is probably 10% of what I paid for the tractor, and as I don't have a FEL, it really was just to add a little extra margin of safety. So another option is to leave them set as they are, esp as I have no wobble.

Thanks again

Si

The photo is of an upgraded hub. Instead of two sleaves that compress on the axle when you tighten the bolt, the upgraded hub has two collars that clamp down on the axle shaft. I sold both of my original hubs on Ebay really fast, after replacing them with two of the upgraded ones. A big improvement.
Why not go ahead and remove the wheel from the rim? It will make it easier to work on the hub.

SMac · Sep 6, 2013

hodge said:
Why not go ahead and remove the wheel from the rim? It will make it easier to work on the hub.

I'll probably end up doing just that. Initially I thought it'd be a 2 min job to just move the wheels out from their narrowest to their widest setting.

But then we know what thought did...

SMac · Sep 9, 2013

Well I managed to get the hub off

Thanks for all your help.

As a keen cyclist, I'm more used to bike mechanics than, agricultural stuff, so taking a 3ft breaker bar to a nut is normally a big no-no....

But in this case the right tool for the job, and it was pretty simple.

Hubs now flipped, the locking nuts antiseized, and the wheels swapped over to keep the tread direction correct.

I've also sorted the handbrake, next job will be getting some headlights.

Got plenty of work out of the old girl this weekend shifting topsoil, so all in I'm happy with my bargain tractor!

Si

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B6000 Wheel collar / axle bolt thing-a-me, questions

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