Rear hydraulic winch
- Thread starter ozzie
- Start date
You can easily mount a hydraulic winch---the question is 'where' do you mount it?
Also should consider winch operating pressure and volume (flow, gpm) requirement and match tractor hydraulic capability.
Do NOT try putting it on the drawbar between the 3-point lift arms.
Somehow figure out a mounting plate to get the winch onto the drawbar that sticks straight out from beneath the tractor's rear axle.
If you use a trailer ball-mount type winch make sure you use the largest ball possible and it has the largest diameter bolt possible (I've seen cheap 2-in balls with 1/2-in bolts that come with a bushing to fit larger holes: use a ball with a 1-in or larger bolt.)
Even though the 3-point is pretty stout, I can't help but think it being tugged on and lifted by the winch when pulling won't help it.
The bigger aspect is safety: as the winch pulls, at some point it will probably pull the line taut and cause the 3-point to 'lift' up of its own volition--without you hitting the lift control.
If you--or another operator--aren't paying attention, the first time the 3-point lift cross-wise drawbar lifts itself above the height of the rear axle (due to line pull) you will find yourself flipped over backwards real real fast. So fast you might not be able to form a thought to demount the machine.
Flipping over either won't happen (or is far far less likely to occur; remember: 'stuff' happens) if the force of your pulling is connected to the tractor BELOW the height of the rear axle.
Don't know how familiar you are with winchlines but if I were doing this and pulling with the winch (as in vehicle recovery, stump pulling) I'd set the brakes, ground the loader bucket, get off, and stand by the controls looking backwards watching what was happening. Sitting on the seat you're exposed; I'd want to have a tire and some steel between me and the line. If you've never seen a line or web strap snap in two (or the load come apart or jerk loose) I assure you it will get your attention. After you get over the jitters you can drive back home and think about how close you just got to dying sloppily.
Spouse and I are involved in county rural VFD/EMS. Every year we get a tractor flip or two (and rollovers, bushhogs, balers, PTOs, tree limbs, passengers falling off) and some dead people that should have known better. We see a lot of tractor-related injuries (usually deaths) and hope you don't become one.
Please post back with how you proceed--especially the mounting aspect--so we may all learn.
Also should consider winch operating pressure and volume (flow, gpm) requirement and match tractor hydraulic capability.
Do NOT try putting it on the drawbar between the 3-point lift arms.
Somehow figure out a mounting plate to get the winch onto the drawbar that sticks straight out from beneath the tractor's rear axle.
If you use a trailer ball-mount type winch make sure you use the largest ball possible and it has the largest diameter bolt possible (I've seen cheap 2-in balls with 1/2-in bolts that come with a bushing to fit larger holes: use a ball with a 1-in or larger bolt.)
Even though the 3-point is pretty stout, I can't help but think it being tugged on and lifted by the winch when pulling won't help it.
The bigger aspect is safety: as the winch pulls, at some point it will probably pull the line taut and cause the 3-point to 'lift' up of its own volition--without you hitting the lift control.
If you--or another operator--aren't paying attention, the first time the 3-point lift cross-wise drawbar lifts itself above the height of the rear axle (due to line pull) you will find yourself flipped over backwards real real fast. So fast you might not be able to form a thought to demount the machine.
Flipping over either won't happen (or is far far less likely to occur; remember: 'stuff' happens) if the force of your pulling is connected to the tractor BELOW the height of the rear axle.
Don't know how familiar you are with winchlines but if I were doing this and pulling with the winch (as in vehicle recovery, stump pulling) I'd set the brakes, ground the loader bucket, get off, and stand by the controls looking backwards watching what was happening. Sitting on the seat you're exposed; I'd want to have a tire and some steel between me and the line. If you've never seen a line or web strap snap in two (or the load come apart or jerk loose) I assure you it will get your attention. After you get over the jitters you can drive back home and think about how close you just got to dying sloppily.
Spouse and I are involved in county rural VFD/EMS. Every year we get a tractor flip or two (and rollovers, bushhogs, balers, PTOs, tree limbs, passengers falling off) and some dead people that should have known better. We see a lot of tractor-related injuries (usually deaths) and hope you don't become one.
Please post back with how you proceed--especially the mounting aspect--so we may all learn.
There are factory built logging winches that you can buy, which mount to the 3 point. I assume that they run off of the PTO, and I also assume that you can get them hydraulically powered.
While flipping the tractor is a reality, I doubt if it will happen very fast. Most winches pull at a very slow rate due to gearing and load. While you should be careful about pulls that happen above the line of the axle, you should be able to read what's happening and stop the pull before you get close to flipping over.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Farm-tracto...avy_Equipment_Attachments&hash=item232bbf8a02
Notice how these are built- the blade digs in as you pull, the frame keeps the load imposed on the winch, not on the tractor, and they are designed to protect the operator if the cable breaks.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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Another reason the logging winches are a better design than a strait winch is that if the load shifts suddenly it won't just jeck the tractor over on top of you.
Thanks for all that valuable safety advice. One can never learn enough about safety around machinery. At times I work up and down a 23 degree slope clearing weeds. There are times when backing up the slope the wheels start to spin, and that is when I need assistance from a winch.
The remote hydraulics produce 29.5L/min 7.8gal. with a pressure of 17.5MPa
2500psi. This should be enough for a 12000lb winch. I believe the rule of thumb is ~1+1/2 X the tractor weight. The main pull will be from the rear drawbar with support from the 3pt hitch. I have been looking at Runva Winches, what do you think about these? Manufacturers state as to what pull
the winch is capable of, it has a sticker on them to say so. How I know that that is correct, stickers can be changed.
Cheers
ozzie