Snowblower Chute Mod-Linear Actuator

MuttCat

Member
Apr 9, 2017
84
15
8
Dorloo, NY, USA
Merry Christmas All!

I'm actually ahead of the snow game this season...got the blower mounted before the first snow....

This summer I gathered up the stuff to mount an actuator on the snowblower's deflector chute, and the switch and wiring is all good. Now all I need to figure is where to drill the mounting holes on the chute. I keep looking at it and holding the actuator up to it, and generally agonizing over making way too many holes.

Does anybody have any advise? The actuator ram has 4" of travel and I'm guessing mounting the top first would be the way to go.

Thoughts are certainly appreciated.
 

Orange1forme

Active member

Equipment
B2650 HSDC, filled tires, wheel spacers, B2728B , LA534A FEL, 3rd valve kit
Dec 1, 2018
394
56
28
Wa
You need to determine full up and down(extended & retracted) while holding it against the chute and deflector.

This will help determine where you want it. Also, rotate the chute to determine if one position or another will interfere with anything and wire routing.

There are a few YouTube videos on it. Not really that difficult once you think it through.

Measure twice, cut(drill once).
 

SidecarFlip

Banned

Equipment
M9000HDCC3, M9000HD, Kubota GS850 Sidekick
Oct 28, 2018
7,197
546
83
USA
If you have a remote hydraulic valve out back, a hydraulic cylinder is cheaper and easier. Linear actuators can be pricey. I have one on my round baler and it's expensive.
 

chim

Well-known member

Equipment
L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
1,738
822
113
Near Lancaster, PA, USA
Match the location with the travel needed. I have seen them mounted on the side near the hinge joint to compensate for not having a long enough stroke. Assuming the actuator has auto stops, Mount it so it cannot overdrive the chute.
 

Orange1forme

Active member

Equipment
B2650 HSDC, filled tires, wheel spacers, B2728B , LA534A FEL, 3rd valve kit
Dec 1, 2018
394
56
28
Wa
If you have a remote hydraulic valve out back, a hydraulic cylinder is cheaper and easier. Linear actuators can be pricey. I have one on my round baler and it's expensive.
Actuator for me was far simpler and quick.
My weak link is the switch. Unsure of its longevity vs use.
 

Orange1forme

Active member

Equipment
B2650 HSDC, filled tires, wheel spacers, B2728B , LA534A FEL, 3rd valve kit
Dec 1, 2018
394
56
28
Wa
One more thing, I mounted mine in the upright position with no issues in 2 years.

I read a post somewhere that suggested mounting it upside down. This was to keep water from getting in and freezing making it unusable.
 

MuttCat

Member
Apr 9, 2017
84
15
8
Dorloo, NY, USA
I got the actuator from Firgirelli Auto and the switch from Amazon, nothing fancy. The installation of the switch and wiring was simple, and all told everything was pretty cheap. You would think, considering the cost of the snowthrower, that the up and down chute deflection would at least be cable operated. Rotation is hydraulic though.

I have scouted the web for examples and there are many. Lots of vids of guys blowing snow...useless. Several show the the actuator bolted to the side of the chute; some have the actuator ram attached towards the nose of the deflector, others towards the rear. I guess towards the rear would give me the greatest amount of up/down at the front of the deflector given the 4" of ram travel?

I'm gonna mount it upright. My wife will make a canvas wrap with velcro/zip ties to keep the snow and wet off.
 
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thebicman

Active member

Equipment
B2601 + BX2755HD + 50" box blade
Feb 2, 2017
328
89
28
Ottawa, ontario
At least tell us what blower your putting it on. Hard to give you advise if your not giving us anything to work with. For mine I used one of the factory holes and then figured out the best location for the other based on travel.
 

Ryno12

New member

Equipment
BX25D
Nov 20, 2018
8
4
0
Wisconsin
I just installed one on a BX5450 a couple of weeks ago. I wanted to maximize chute travel while not bottoming out on either end of the slots.
Here’s where I ended up mounting the actuator.



 

Orange1forme

Active member

Equipment
B2650 HSDC, filled tires, wheel spacers, B2728B , LA534A FEL, 3rd valve kit
Dec 1, 2018
394
56
28
Wa
At least tell us what blower your putting it on. Hard to give you advise if your not giving us anything to work with. For mine I used one of the factory holes and then figured out the best location for the other based on travel.
I did the same when I mounted mine.
 

MuttCat

Member
Apr 9, 2017
84
15
8
Dorloo, NY, USA
Ryno12...YOU ARE THE MAN!

You have the same blower as me and your photos are the guidance needed. It looks like you located the actuator pretty much centered up on the chute. I was thinking maybe to drill the top hole just above the existing slot, following the arc, but you've gone a bit forward I see.

No problems you say, great! And thanks for chiming in.
 
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Ryno12

New member

Equipment
BX25D
Nov 20, 2018
8
4
0
Wisconsin
Ryno12...YOU ARE THE MAN!



You have the same blower as me and your photos are the guidance needed. It looks like you located the actuator pretty much centered up on the chute. I was thinking maybe to drill the top hole just above the existing slot, following the arc, but you've gone a bit forward I see.



No problems you say, great! And thanks for chiming in.

Thanks, glad I could help! I was in your shoes doing this same research not so long ago.

Yes, the bottom bolt is pretty much centered & the top bolt is just to the right of center. When fully open, the top hole is at about 12:30 to the top of the arc.
Of course there’s other areas that will work; this is just where I chose. Everything works well though.
 

NoJacketRequired

Active member

Equipment
B7510 & LA302 FEL & B2782 blower, B7510 & B2781 blower, B2410 & B2550 blower
May 25, 2016
415
47
28
Ottawa, Ontario
This is a 4" 250lb actuator mounted "upside down" to keep moisture out. Blower is a B2771.

To address an earlier comment, switch longevity should not be an issue if using a properly-rated switch. The switch I used has 15A contacts while the actuator draws about 1.4A... Switch should last forever.

Those who say installing a hydraulic cylinder is easier or cheaper likely haven't installed a linear actuator - it really couldn't be much easier if you've got any inclination with electrical stuff. As for cost, mine cost me about $150 all in. One doesn't need much hydraulic hose, connectors and cylinder to get up to that level of cost, and that's assuming you already have the control valve in place. From what I've been seeing the cost of hydraulic cylinders around here are about 60% of the price of a comparable linear actuator. A bit of wire is a lot cheaper than hydraulic line. And electric wires don't leak, or burst.

Just sayin'... Sometimes it's worth checking out the alternatives fully before making a decision on which direction to go with your project.
 

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MuttCat

Member
Apr 9, 2017
84
15
8
Dorloo, NY, USA
Really, the toughest part, beside where to drill two holes in thew chute, was where to mount the switch. On my BX, the dash is crowded and not much space that is flat. I finally mounted it on the left hand side just above the screening. I bought a mounting sleeve for the switch and it popped right in nice and clean. I went with 16 ga wire, 5A fuse, and connected to both sides of the battery. The switch centers in the off position, so I don't care about battery. I'm probably into this for $125 or so. I got the wire from NAPA...could have saved a few bucks there.
 

Ryno12

New member

Equipment
BX25D
Nov 20, 2018
8
4
0
Wisconsin
Really, the toughest part, beside where to drill two holes in thew chute, was where to mount the switch. On my BX, the dash is crowded and not much space that is flat. I finally mounted it on the left hand side just above the screening. I bought a mounting sleeve for the switch and it popped right in nice and clean. I went with 16 ga wire, 5A fuse, and connected to both sides of the battery. The switch centers in the off position, so I don't care about battery. I'm probably into this for $125 or so. I got the wire from NAPA...could have saved a few bucks there.


Not sure if you have the electric chute rotation or not, but Kubota sells a dual switch housing that clamps right on the hydro lever. This puts the switches in the same location as the raise/lower function.

I know you already mounted your switches but this gives you another option in case you decide to relocate them.
 

NoJacketRequired

Active member

Equipment
B7510 & LA302 FEL & B2782 blower, B7510 & B2781 blower, B2410 & B2550 blower
May 25, 2016
415
47
28
Ottawa, Ontario
In my case I used a 12V winch to accomplish chute rotation. This is the second blower which I've modified in this manner. Works a charm, even with the cheapest winch, as long as it is power out / power return. I mount the rocker switch for the winch directly below the hydraulic control lever for the quick hitch. Mounted right beside the winch control is the rocker switch for the linear actuator for chute deflection. Ergonomically it really couldn't be much better. Oh, by the way, I mounted the hydraulic valve on the right fender where its control lever falls perfectly to hand. Check the photo below, reposted from this thread - unfortunately in the photo of the hydraulic valve I hadn't yet installed the electrical switches.
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39257&highlight=nojacketrequired
 

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