Trailer tips-driving, loading, and unloading

What a nicely appointed trailer. Slosh some 50/50 burnt oil/diesel on the deck and let it soak in and you're pretty well good to go. I wish I'd known about the tie down rails like yours has before getting mine. Haven't had the need to load up yet and still need to do some trial runs to work the kinks out. Your rig will make it a snap.

Congratulations!

When I was young on a farm my grandfather gave me some good advice about back up a trailer.

When backing up place your hand on the bottom of the steering wheel. Then when you see the trailer needs to go left or right you move your steering hand on the wheel in that direction. Hand on top of the wheel you must remember to move the wheel the opposite direction.

Just woke up no coffee yet, hope that make sense.

Nice trailer, doing the right upgrades and great advice.
All i have to add is you are now doubling your weight,stopping,turning and swerving to avoid obstacles are now things you need to relearn.

Figure out your limitations, between truck trailer and yourself. As mentioned speed limits are generally meant for ideal conditions,adding weight and length changes things greatly. Last thing you want to discover is you loaded tractor
Off balance and it wants to swerve truck around like a rag doll.

Weight distributing hitch works wonders, take the time to connect it properly and could very well save your life.

Do not put anything on your deck that will make it slippery such as oil. Those boards will last a long time just the way they are. I had a trailer just like the one you have and it towed great. I towed it with an F 250 super duty. My deck got slick once and I almost put my skid steer off the side while loading it. Just remember that you have the extra length behind you as a lot of bad things can happen fast. Watch the weight on the front of the trails so you don't get a whip effect.

What I did was watch the back of the truck while loading for the weight on the front of the trailer. If you have it to far forward you will know it when you are hauling it. Another tip is once I found the right spot for the weight distrubtion on the trailer I nailed as small piece of wood to the deck so I would load it the same all the time. My skid steer weighs about 9000 and I just center that slightly forward of the first set of wheels on the trailer. I don't know what your tow truck is but learn to set and use the trailer brakes as they can save your bacon sometime.

I have a trailer I had custom built about 1985. It had 1"x12" rough cut oak I picked up from the saw mill for decking. I laid out the boards and clamped them, then bolted with lag bolts. When the lumber dried out I had about 1/2" gaps between the boards.

I soaked the lumber each summer with boiled linseed oil. When the weather was in the 90's I'd dump it on and brush it around. It soaked in quickly.

Those boards lasted until one finally developed a crack and it was just where my trencher tire needed to be! Those boards lasted about 22 years.

I added some more stringers and got some metal for my replacement.

For safety I would suggest you weld some feet, on the bottom, at the hinge point of your ramps. It looks like they are hinged. Then when you swing them down, the foot will already be there. Your trailer will never kick up (like in the article you referred to) because it can't go down in the back.

NEPA Guy said:

Hey guys, After seeing "Unloading tractor from Trailer causes accident in PA"



http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27153



and being that I just got my 20' dovetail trailer yesterday, and I live in PA (double whammy) I think nows a good time to ask for any advice or tips on how to best deal with loading, unloading, driving and storage.



I upgraded my truck tires to E rated ones. I'll get my WDH on order as soon as I sell my old tires. The dealer sat with me and we set the gain on the truck brake controller and he gave me some basic driving tips. (make wide turns and don't hit anyone)



So the fastway one step wheel chock is the best way to go? Chock the truck too? Keep the brakes on, 4x4 engaged, flat surface, best practices? What if I have no choice but to load/unload on incline/decline?



What about storage, do I cover the tires like campers do? Spray it with wd40? Cover it with a tarp? Its going to be sitting in the woods basically.



The wood has a few minor warps in it, and one plank has a big ol crack in it. I'm assuming it's not a big deal, the dealer said to seal it with thompsons or something similar.



It has a mount for a spare, the dealer just forgot to add it, I'll get it when they're done with my tractor (the kubota rep is going to disassemble the gear case and put a bore scope inside to take a closer look)



As usual any or all advice/comments would be appreciated.

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Very nice looking set up.
Water proofing the lumber is a good idea.
A extended time of shade and a covering of leafs and moisture is hard on the paint, lumber and the iron. Some wind moving across it is good. Be careful with tarping the whole thing.
If your using straps for tie downs remember they cut or rub in half much easier than one would think, best not to have them where they can rub on any kind of edge.
If you even have a shadow of a thought of wether it is tied down good enough, then tie some more. Usually front and rear of tractor and good idea on the attachments also. Even if they are attached to the tractor. I think some areas require it. Grade 70 chain in 5/16 or 3/8. Heavy duty wide straps like about 2 1/2 inch or so.
Tuck your chains or straps up from underneath the rub rails then hook them. This allows them to stay hooked even if slack develops.
Blocks, or something under the rear of the trailor at the ramps is a god idea for heavy loads.
I usually do not put mine in 4x4 for loading operations but if you are in doubt then why not chocks on the trailor wheels if on a slope is good idea. I always set the emergency brake. Even on automatics.
Wet or mud or leaves on the bed of the trailor or tires of tractor and to much tire spin and you can go SIDEWAYS on the deck of the trailor when on a cross slope.
Keep the front end loader as low as you can at all times, especially when loading.
Seat belt when loading !
Every one and every thing on the road seems to be careless or inconsiderate. Since your often traveling slower or with a larger space between you and the next vehicle in front of you many will cut right in.....
I like my trailor breaks to grab quickly as soon as I touch the truck brakes, helps in slippery conditions to keep the trailor behind you. Of course you do not want them sliding. Your trailor break unit should have two adjustments, how fast the brakes grap and how hard they grab. Have the trailor break unit in EASY reach to manually apply the trailor breaks. Very helpful on ice bridges, long downhill runs.... and other times also. Use it for practice fairly often so that if you need it you will not have to think about it.
If you stop at a gas station, resturant etc walk around the trailor and check tie downs and latches on the hitches etc. Sometimes they work loose on the road and sometimes they have help on working loose in the parking lot. Theirs all kind of people out there.
Low tire pressure equals blowouts. I keep a tire gauge in the truck.
Is your jack and tire wrench tough enough to jack up the LOADED trailor and get of those air impacted attached lug nuts off?
Several 4 x 4 chunk of lumber tapered at the end is handy, as a tire chuck for blocking tires and also to drive ONE tire up onto so you can take of the other tire next to it for flats. No jack needed often times.
Safety kit reflectors etc for on the side of the road is not a bad idea. Set em up way way way back from where your fixing a flat, you want the idiot driver to have time to realize they ran over your reflector and still have time to dodge you.
Ya i know it was a long post but so many ideas kept popping up, i been hauling since before i was legal to drive 40 years ago
Enjoy your new outfit

My trailer experience is entirely with hauling horses, no less precious a cargo, but they will give you feedback on your driving right away! If you corner too sharp or too fast for them to balance you will hear the scramble of hooves on the sides of the trailer

I learned on my first trailer being pulled by a Chevrolet car by taking it over Donner Summit from Reno to Davis with no more advice than to use the gears (manual transmission) to hold the rig going down hill. If you ride the car brakes soon you won't have any. Somehow that was enough, but I soon got a pickup and a trailer with electric brakes and have survived so far with no accidents, but I think I am lucky. The don't ride the brakes advice still is important.

I was reminded of another piece of " don't use the (truck) brakes" advice from a friend pulling a trailer last week who hit a piece of something and blew a front tire and then blew two rear tires. His rig was going all over the road, but what saved him was the trucker next to him hit his brakes and dropped back and shielded him from the traffic, and he was able to stop by throwing on the airbrakes on the trailer ONLY. If you put on the truck brakes with a blown steering wheel tire, the front end will nose down and you will roll over. The trucker pulled up behind him and asked if he was a little shaky! The state trooper that stopped said he was fortunate to be in one piece, most aren't.

I have a dim memory of being told when I was learning to drive and tires blowing were common, not to touch the brakes if a tire goes flat, but coast to the side of the road.

So the tip I have is get comfortable using the hand controller in the cab that allows you to put on the trailer brakes only. It will stop fishtailing and might come in handy in an emergency.

If loading or unloading on a hill I put the truck in 4X4 and block the trailer wheels.
When I Park mine, it too goes out in the woods behind my house. I run it up on some pressure treaded 2x8 about 4ft long to keep the tires off of the dirt.

Don't treat the deck, when wet it be slicker than Goose Poo!

Good looking rig and pup too!

good luck with it.

When you first start pulling the trailer wether loaded or unloaded get to about 20-25mph and apply the trailer brakes you should feel the trailer stopping the truck if it doesn't stop the truck you need to adjust the gain on the brakes up one or 2 and try it again and if you trailer brakes locks up and skids the tires you need to adjust the gain down a number or 2. Knowing what you are pulling with would help us give you more info but if you have a tow/hall button when you have a trailer always push the button besides changing up shifting patterns it also changes downshifting patterns to help you with a little engine breaking it doesn't do a ton of engine breaking on a gasser but on a diesel it can make a huge difference.


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Concrete blocks break very easy believe it or not. Do not use them for blocking up the Trailor in any form or fashion


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Redlands said:

Concrete blocks break very easy believe it or not. Do not use them for blocking up the Trailor in any form or fashion


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2nd that. Don't use cement blocks for blocking. Go buy a 6x6 and 2x6 and cut them up for blocking. They are relatively cheap and much safer.

NEPA Guy said:

Thanks for the tips guys

What's bunt oil/diesel ? Used oil and diesel fluid mixed? Is that like something they use on railroad ties? Won't it make it slick?

.

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"Burnt Oil" is a term I heard most of my life referring to the oil from your crankcase when you change oil. Mix it 50/50 with diesel it makes a good exterior wood treatment but you do have to let it soak in.

Treated lumber tends to be slick already but adding this to it and letting it soak in on a hot day is popular in some regions for trailer decks to sheds and and barns. If you tend to beat your wood to failure before it rots I wouldn't bother. Heck, I need to do mine too.

clay45 said:

"Burnt Oil" is a term I heard most of my life referring to the oil from your crankcase when you change oil. Mix it 50/50 with diesel it makes a good exterior wood treatment but you do have to let it soak in.

Treated lumber tends to be slick already but adding this to it and letting it soak in on a hot day is popular in some regions for trailer decks to sheds and and barns. If you tend to beat your wood to failure before it rots I wouldn't bother. Heck, I need to do mine too.

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Welcome from KY! I hauled my B3200 FEL & BH from Chattanooga to central KY on my 16' utility trailer (double axle brakes & my 07 Tacoma has a brake controller) without issue. I went no faster than 55, kept plenty of distance between myself and others. The main thing is to take your time, especially as your getting used to towing. Make sure you tractor sets far enough forward on the trailer to give enough tongue weight. You'll be in for a scary ride if you don't have some weight on the tongue.

Wow, I am new to this board (just brought home my first Kubota, a L3800 w/ FEL on Monday) and already found a thread I can jump right into. I totally agree with zin01's advice, I do a 20 foot brake check every time I hook up my 2 horse bumper-pull. I actually posted on the top of my brake controller the gain settings for empty, 1 horse, and 2 horses.

As for downshifting a good rule of thumb I learned when learning to drive a semi was use the same gear going down the hill as you did climbing it. I pay attention to how my Sierra downshifts going up then manually downshift to the same gear heading down.

Like many others have said, go slower than when empty with no trailer, and pay extra attention to everyone and every thing.

Happy trailering!