Common maintenance items on D850 and B7100s?

iangoround · May 21, 2019

Yikes. Really?

I was looking in the WSM but didn't see a measurement for the flywheel. Is there one so I can make sure no one has taken any off before?

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North Idaho Wolfman · May 21, 2019

iangoround said:
Yikes. Really?

I was looking in the WSM but didn't see a measurement for the flywheel. Is there one so I can make sure no one has taken any off before?

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I don't know the measurement, but post a picture of the flywheel surface and I might me able to tell if it's been resurfaced.

iangoround · May 21, 2019

I'll do that when I get the tractor split, which might be a few days. I can only work on it at night when I get home and after my son has gone inside. He's 3 and his idea of helping is stealing all my tools and hardware and losing them.

iangoround · May 21, 2019

Well, got it apart. Not too hard actually. This thing is filthy. Found a few issues I think. The front axle u-joint yoke where it rides on the splines front the axle is sloppy. The clutch fork that engages the throw out bearing has about 1/8 of play in it before it engages the bearing, and the left brake isn't hooked up because the clutch brake pedal mount shaft is busted.

But, the engine is out and on the ground and now I wait for parts to come in.

And boy am I glad I bought myself an oil filter cutter. I found a pushrod off in the valve cover and thought for a second "hey, maybe that was the problem" until I opened the oil filter and found a whole lotta bad news glitter...

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iangoround · May 21, 2019

Whats the output amperage for the dynamos on these things?

I ask because I think I have an electric fan in a box somewhere that would fit this radiator perfectly and would take up less room in the engine bay than the plastic fan, move a lot more air, and be controlled for faster warmups.

If the dynamo can't handle it, now is the time to mount a mini alternator for a little extra juice.

North Idaho Wolfman · May 21, 2019

Yep the flywheel has never been touched, just CLR and wire brush, or soda/fine media blast it, then very fine sanding, like 220 on a block.

I would suggest new Pilot bushing, Throwout bearing, Pressure plate and Clutch disk.

On reassembly use RTV and seal the bellhousing to keep moisture out.

Output on these dynamos is pitiful, I would say plan on an upgrade, and as far as running an electric fan, you can do it because you're changing over to a water pump engine, you could even put in the heat sensor to turn it on and off.

If you would like pictures of a radiator adapted to fit that motor, I just happen to have mine back here for a bit doing repairs on it, so I will be able to take some pictures. It was simple I used copper fittings to do it.

iangoround · May 22, 2019

Great.

Yeah a few shots of how you did it would be great. My radiator in/outs look to be brass. I'm thinking once I clean them up I should be able to solder or braze copper fittings to reduce the sizes to match the water pump and block inlet.

If you've got a suggestion for a mini alt that's easy to adapt, I'm all ears.

North Idaho Wolfman · May 22, 2019

iangoround said:
Great.

Yeah a few shots of how you did it would be great. My radiator in/outs look to be brass. I'm thinking once I clean them up I should be able to solder or braze copper fittings to reduce the sizes to match the water pump and block inlet.

If you've got a suggestion for a mini alt that's easy to adapt, I'm all ears.

I'll have it off the trailer and tore down in a little bit, then I should be able to get some good pics.

I've also made this one a key off model, with a stop solenoid, I'll show that too.

If you want it to fit under the hood and side shields you'll have to make the brackets for fit above the engine.
If your ok with it sticking out the side a little then it should fit on the mount that's already on the D850.

https://www.dbelectrical.com/produc...R-yQ58NQvNOVHVcDrxGGmsR0ztjzoIURoCz-cQAvD_BwE

iangoround · May 22, 2019

I don't mind it sticking out the side a bit. I'm not even sure I'll put the side covers back on, they're pretty beat up anyway.

I'm now in a holding pattern until parts start arriving on Friday.

iangoround · May 23, 2019

Well, clutch came in today so I got the new engine mounted in the front frame and then mated back to the other half of the tractor

I'm not super sure about this clutch. I got the linkages hooked back up and it seems to not have much resistance until the last 1/4" of travel and then when it feels like I'm pushing something it hits the stop.

My filters come in tomorrow, then I can see if the thing will fire up.

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North Idaho Wolfman · May 23, 2019

Pictures as your going will help us help you if something doesn't work right.

This is the radiator connections, compare them to yours now and you'll see they are shorter and smaller and at different angles.

iangoround · May 24, 2019

I didn't have my phone on me out in the barn yesterday, but I'll snap a few when I get home today.

I didn't take the time to measure the pressure plate levers and set them on the new plate. I'm wondering if that is part of my problem, or it its that the clutch fork is worn down a bunch where it meets the throwout bearing sleeve. There is a fair amount of slop there. I think I might pull the fork out and weld up the contacts a little first and see if that helps before I re-split the tractor to adjust the pressure plate.

I also noticed too late that someone put the front axle pivot pin in backwards, so I can't pull it out without either removing the engine from the tractor or removing the front frame from the engine. I'll need to get in there eventually to replace those bushings and repair the front u-joint yoke.

D2Cat · May 24, 2019

On the clutch fork (and shifting forks) I've built them up using a wire welder. Just make sure they're smooth and fit where they belong with out issues. I use a flap disc to dress the weld.

North Idaho Wolfman · May 24, 2019

iangoround said:
I also noticed too late that someone put the front axle pivot pin in backwards, so I can't pull it out without either removing the engine from the tractor or removing the front frame from the engine. I'll need to get in there eventually to replace those bushings and repair the front u-joint yoke.

That's not wrong, that's the way it is on these tractors.
The bolt has to go from back to front, so yes you have to drop the front frame to service that bolt bushings or seals.

iangoround · May 24, 2019

North Idaho Wolfman said:
That not wrong, that's the way it is, the bolt has to go from back to front.

Really? When I was reading the WSM the picture made it look like it went the other way, and I didn't see it mention anything about pulling the engine or dropping that frame to remove the axle.

That's just silly.

North Idaho Wolfman · May 24, 2019

iangoround said:
Really? When I was reading the WSM the picture made it look like it went the other way, and I didn't see it mention anything about pulling the engine or dropping that frame to remove the axle.

That's just silly.

Really, I've worked on enough of them, I have 2 b7100's here right now.
The bolt can only go one way, different sizes on the pivot points.

Yea you won't pull the engine, that's not how you get to it, you just drop the frame down.

Lil Foot · May 24, 2019

What he said.

iangoround · May 24, 2019

Got it in and it runs! Fires right up. Gotta rig up the cooling system and maybe adjust the governor. I'm not sure if this revs up to tractor rpms.

Clutch definitely does not disengage. I'm thinking the 3/16 of slop between the clutch fork and throw out bearing sleeve is the culprit. When I press the clutch the engine notices something, but it just doesn't fully disengage.

I've got a new fork on order, but in the meantime I might try to weld this up a little.

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iangoround · May 24, 2019

Sorry for the crappy photos. I can't really get a a camera in there to get a good shot of it. But, I can move the pedal about 1/4 through its travel before the fork even begins to contact the sleeve. It looks like the adjustment is pretty far out right now, and there's just not enough travel left before the arm hits the stop once the fork makes contact.

I'm going to get the cooling system figured out first, and then try welding some material on the clutch fork to make up the difference.

Regarding the max RPM on this. Can I just adjust it using the stop screws, or are there differences in the springs inside? Am I going to need to move my governor over from the old engine?

iangoround · May 24, 2019

D2Cat said:
On the clutch fork (and shifting forks) I've built them up using a wire welder. Just make sure they're smooth and fit where they belong with out issues. I use a flap disc to dress the weld.

That's my plan. I'm not the best welder, so if I can't get it I've got a new one being shipped now.

Common maintenance items on D850 and B7100s?

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