Hydro Filter Change Only

NorCalOrange · May 20, 2019

Have searched a lot and still not sure what others do. The question is, how long do you keep the same hydro filter installed? The manual calls for hydro filter and fluid change every 300 hours. That could be 6+ years in my case.

I called Donaldson and they said their filters are designed per manufacturers specs. They would not commit if the filter would perform if the 300 hours of service was several years. I also called Baldwin and they would not commit either but did recommend that the safe thing to do is change the filter annually.

Changing the filter every year or two is not a huge deal accept from what I read their will definitely be fluid loss. And buying a gal of fluid just for a filter change seems silly.

Another option is the "vacuum over the fill port technique" while changing the filter. Does that actually work?

melvinhatcher · May 20, 2019

I don’t know [emoji848] about your tractor but my L3301 Kubota, as I remember the first change is 200 hours.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

dalola · May 20, 2019

The maintenance chart always gives direction based on hours of service and/or time frame, which ever comes first. If there is no time frame, then it's just hours of service only. I would follow that. Typically, a lot of testing and engineering goes into those recommendations.

chim · May 20, 2019

NorCalOrange said:
................Another option is the "vacuum over the fill port technique" while changing the filter. Does that actually work?

Worked for me.

melvinhatcher · May 20, 2019

Could you explain your vacuum over the oil fill port procedure, while changing your hydro filter?
Thanks in advance
Melvin.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

nuctrooper · May 20, 2019

melvinhatcher said:
Could you explain your vacuum over the oil fill port procedure, while changing your hydro filter?

Super easy! Set up a shop vac near the hydraulic fluid fill port. Remove the fill cap, turn on vac, and put the hose over the fill port. Prop it up or duct tape it on. Doesn’t have to be super airtight, just stay in place. Now when you spin,off the filters, it will suck air back through the filter feed tube and you’ll only lose a cup of oil. I use a 1 gal shop vac (little one) just fine, though I’m sure a bigger one would work just fine. Once new filter is on, turn off shop vac. Done.

North Idaho Wolfman · May 20, 2019

300 hrs is 300 hrs it doesn't matter if it takes months or years, hydraulic fluid doesn't just go bad, unless you add junk or water to it.

If you change the filter you change the fluid.

Only on a new tractor on the first service do you only change the filter.

You would never use a vacuum on your model, that's only for much newer models, much differnt design of a system.

Don't even consider an aftermarket brand HST filter, your only asking for problems!

nuctrooper · May 20, 2019

North Idaho Wolfman said:
If you change the filter you change the fluid.
Only on a new tractor on the first service do you only change the filter.
You would never use a vacuum on your model, that's only for much newer models, much differnt design of a system.

Uh - yes, Kubota manual says trans filter only at 200 hrs, filter and fluid at 400. (L3301HST)
And yes, vacuum works great on the 3301.

I agree with you that for older/other designs the vacuum method may not work, and each machine will have different service requirements.

Muzzy · May 20, 2019

When you change the Filters, change the Fluids.

NorCalOrange · May 20, 2019

Thanks everyone. The dealership service manager said he would not leave a hydro filter in his own personal tractor for more than 5 years. Fluid, no problem. Some customers do change filter only more often then that. And some change filter and fluid together per the service manual even if the filter has been installed for many, many years.

The vacuum trick also works great when servicing a non-serviceable car cvt transmission. Many cvt's are/were advertised as sealed and the cvt trans fluid as lifetime. Well, after several years of failures that has been debunked. To r&r the cvt fluid, put one end of a hose down the cvt "dip stick tube". Drill a hole in a 5 qrt oil container and put the other end in that hole. Put a shop vac hose on the oil container pour spout hole. Turn on the shop vac and the fluid gets pulled into the jug.

Gillie Dog · May 20, 2019

NorCalOrange said:
Another option is the "vacuum over the fill port technique" while changing the filter. Does that actually work?

Worked for me also.

Did not lose a couple tablespoons fluid. Had new filter ready to go with gasket lubed.

GD

GeoHorn · May 20, 2019

OK, let me be the devil-in-the-details...

What manufacturer of machinery and/or filter recommends this "vacuum cleaner" method? Unless it's suggested by my mfr'r or filter supplier... I ain't doin' it just to save a cup of oil!

The first thing that pops into my mind is the negative atmospheric pressure applied to the seals in the system. They aren't designed to operate and seal with "negative" pressure. There's a reason (except for simple O-rings) they are installed facing the direction specified.

The second thing that pops into my mind is the design of spin on filters. The outer can contains the oil being introduced from the machinery into the filtration ...where it passes thru the filter media to the center of the filter and returned cleaned of junk to the machine... and the contaminants are left in the outer can... where some enterprising cheapskate trying to save a cup of oil can suck that dirt and trash back into his machine along with the as-yet unfiltered oil he saved.

Geesh! It's better to run the machine a cup of oil LOW than to suck that crap back into the machine, IMO.

NorCalOrange · May 20, 2019

Oh boy. lol

Personally, I look forward to these shade tree, creative, ad-hoc techniques. Nothing like removing a pilot bushing with grease and a wooden dowel. Aligning a clutch plate with a wooden dowel. Using threaded stock, some washers, nuts and a socket to install motorcycle wheel bearings. Using an old cam to install motorcycle cam bearings. Using an oven and or freezer to increase or reduce the size of bearings and holders. Using tie down straps to compress shock springs...

GeoHorn · May 21, 2019

NorCalOrange said:
Oh boy. lol

Personally, I look forward to these shade tree, creative, ad-hoc techniques. Nothing like removing a pilot bushing with grease and a wooden dowel. Aligning a clutch plate with a wooden dowel. Using threaded stock, some washers, nuts and a socket to install motorcycle wheel bearings. Using an old cam to install motorcycle cam bearings. Using an oven and or freezer to increase or reduce the size of bearings and holders. Using tie down straps to compress shock springs...

I wasn't suggesting that using innovative techniques to accomplish repairs which might otherwise require specialized tools isn't a good idea.
I'd be perfectly happy to use a vacuum cleaner to pull vacuum on an intake manifold or to pressurize a muffler with soap-suds to find a leak or crack. But one advantage of a filter is that you throw the filtered dirt away into the trash-can. So sucking the dirty side of the oil back into the machine to save a cup of oil while applying reverse-pressure to oil seals?
it's your machine you can do what you want with it

NorCalOrange · May 21, 2019

GeoHorn said:
I wasn't suggesting that using innovative techniques to accomplish repairs which might otherwise require specialized tools isn't a good idea.
I'd be perfectly happy to use a vacuum cleaner to pull vacuum on an intake manifold or to pressurize a muffler with soap-suds to find a leak or crack. But one advantage of a filter is that you throw the filtered dirt away into the trash-can. So sucking the dirty side of the oil back into the machine to save a cup of oil while applying reverse-pressure to oil seals?
it's your machine you can do what you want with it

Thank you. However, if you read this thread, you would know my B2150 does not require this method. Also, only you mentioned a "cup" of oil. On other threads, on other forums, on different types of tractors, some people say they lose a 1/2 gal and more.

D2Cat · May 21, 2019

The reason only a small amount of fluid is lost is because the suction of the vacuum is not enough to hold it in. That is also the reason the seals, etc. will not be harmed or impurities sucked out of the filter. The vacuum does not need to be that great.

GeoHorn · May 21, 2019

I'm still not sucking dirty oil out of a filter back into my machine.
I'd put a pan beneath it and any fluid which drains into the pan that is clean I would pour back in, if saving that amount of fluid was that important to me.

YMMV. No intent to criticize.

SRRGC1 · Mar 18, 2021

I have to agree with NOT using the suction method. If you have a FEL just raise the front of the tractor some as it will provide some added room. Have your new filter ready to go. Will loose very little. I can have my filter changed by the time you hookup your shop vac.

JimmyJazz · Mar 18, 2021

I had a BMW motorcycle I bought new in 1991 that I obsessed over maintaining. The oil filter was a pain to replace and occasionally I would change the oil and not the filter. When I told this to James at the dealership he said it was like "Changing a diaper and not wiping the rear". This altered my perspective to this day.

nbking · Mar 18, 2021

I did the shop vac method at my 50hr filter change, worked great. Wife helped holding the hose in place, I replaced the filter. I was more afraid of trying to take it off and put it back on fast, crossthreading, old gasket sticking, etc.

Hydro Filter Change Only

Member

Member

Member

Well-known member

Member

New member

Moderator

New member

Member

Member

Member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Active member

Well-known member

Active member