BX25 transmission braking

O

OffGridiot

New member

Equipment
BX25, Landpride Grapple, Farm King rear blade
Jul 18, 2014
15
3
3
Texada Island, B. C. Canada
Hi guys. I'm new to both the world of Kubota and to the world of forums. I've been searching for an answer to a question on OTT but no luck so far. It's just passing curiosity, really, about the braking system on my (new to me - 2012 - 30 hours on it, basically brand new) BX25 and how it seems to be integrated with the transmission. I'm LOVING this machine and specifically, the forward/reverse pedals. SO MUCH BETTER than the tranny on my '72 JD 500B. So I'm wondering what exactly is happening when I take my foot off the pedal, if I'm moving at a bit of a clip, and the thing comes to an abrupt halt (assuming I'm not on too much of a hill...in which case it slows abruptly to a crawl) Are brake pads/shoes/disc-packs being applied at the wheels? Or is some sort of hydraulic restriction taking place in the transmission? (I think it's the latter and I've noticed the significant difference of this effect, in loose gravel, if I have it in 2WD or 4WD) And the brake pedal is affecting just the back wheels?
Quick and dirty answers will be appreciated but I'd also be interested to read any articles anyone might suggest that would give me more info than I'll probably ever need. I've been lurking around some of what's been posted here, and you guys seem like a great, helpful bunch. Thanks in advance.
BTW, would the tranny setup on this be accurately described as hydrostatic with shuttle drive?
Cheers!
 
D

dmanlyr

New member

Equipment
L3200, Hustler Super Z
May 30, 2012
330
1
0
Graham, WA
As to the slow down when letting up on the HST pedal, that is ALL in the hydraulic system. Makes it real nice to slow down without touching the brakes :)

The braking system is a separate stand alone system and not tied into the HST pedal at all.

Your BX is a full HST, nothing shuttle about it at all.

David
 
TripleR

TripleR

Active member

Equipment
BX2200, BX2660, L5740 HSTC, M8540HDC and some other tractors and equipment
Sep 16, 2011
1,911
7
38
SE Missouri
What David said, very simple system, we never use the brakes except when parking.
 
85Hokie

85Hokie

Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Jul 13, 2013
10,344
2,167
113
Bedford - VA
OffGridiot said:
Hi guys. I'm new to both the world of Kubota and to the world of forums. I've been searching for an answer to a question on OTT but no luck so far. It's just passing curiosity, really, about the braking system on my (new to me - 2012 - 30 hours on it, basically brand new) BX25 and how it seems to be integrated with the transmission. I'm LOVING this machine and specifically, the forward/reverse pedals. SO MUCH BETTER than the tranny on my '72 JD 500B. So I'm wondering what exactly is happening when I take my foot off the pedal, if I'm moving at a bit of a clip, and the thing comes to an abrupt halt (assuming I'm not on too much of a hill...in which case it slows abruptly to a crawl) Are brake pads/shoes/disc-packs being applied at the wheels? Or is some sort of hydraulic restriction taking place in the transmission? (I think it's the latter and I've noticed the significant difference of this effect, in loose gravel, if I have it in 2WD or 4WD) And the brake pedal is affecting just the back wheels?
Quick and dirty answers will be appreciated but I'd also be interested to read any articles anyone might suggest that would give me more info than I'll probably ever need. I've been lurking around some of what's been posted here, and you guys seem like a great, helpful bunch. Thanks in advance.
BTW, would the tranny setup on this be accurately described as hydrostatic with shuttle drive?
Cheers!
Click to expand...


As David said , one is the stoppage of fluid from moving and the other is a mechanical movement, in the first - you let off the pedal, and the fluid is slowed thus the wheels are slowed. I have the same machine, I think I have touched the brake pedal maybe 20 times in the last 100 hours. Most of the time I have my foot on the brake as I inch it forward as a "just in case I screw up lever!:eek:

word of advice, if you are going down a hill with a nice load, unless you are on pavement, use the 4wd lever, by using four wheel drive, the machine now has much more braking since fluid is being slow front and back. Several times I have come slightly down a hill cross ways and let up a bit and the rear tires skid on the grass. Will not do that if 4WD is engaged.

To answer the last question, it is hydrostatic , but not a shuttle shift. I shuttle shift is a mechanical linkage that throws another gear into play that simply reverses the gears from F to R, ideal if you need to move forward and reward at somewhat the same speed.

And yes the guys here can answer/fix almost any question or at least give it a nice SWAG.:D
 
koja

koja

New member

Equipment
BX25D
May 27, 2014
335
1
0
Fremont Mi.
I asked the service rep where I bought mine the same question. The answer was that the way the linkage works like a ramp. The ramp on the linkage is steeper for reverse than forward. That gives it more of an abrupt stop when backing up. For safety reasons. He said its just the nature of the beast and nothing you can do to change it other than machining the link linkage some.
 
O

OffGridiot

New member

Equipment
BX25, Landpride Grapple, Farm King rear blade
Jul 18, 2014
15
3
3
Texada Island, B. C. Canada
85Hokie said:
word of advice, if you are going down a hill with a nice load, unless you are on pavement, use the 4wd lever, by using four wheel drive, the machine now has much more braking since fluid is being slow front and back. Several times I have come slightly down a hill cross ways and let up a bit and the rear tires skid on the grass. Will not do that if 4WD is engaged.
Click to expand...
That's darn good advice...a little late for me, though.
I learned that lesson a while back when heading down a hill on my gravel driveway. My front bucket was full of gravel, and, as the user manual had suggested in order to keep from wearing out the tire tread too quickly, I had it in 2WD. When I let up on the forward pedal, the rear wheels began to skid as I continued travelling at roughly the same speed. This was the second time that I had gained first hand experience with what others on this site have referred to as the "Pucker Factor". The first time was when I was cleaning out ditches with the front bucket, on the same hill. I was backing over some uneven terrain behind me after picking up some material from the ditch in front of me, and because I was sideways on the hill, had a scare when I felt the machine beginning to tip. Luckily, my instinct was to drop the boom to the ground (mid pucker).

Another thing I've noticed regarding the 4WD is that the turning radius on this machine doesn't seem to be limited like my pickup truck is when it's in 4WD. I've never felt any "bucking" in the front end like I would in my pickup, if I tried to turn too tight a corner. So, other than the tire tread wear concern, is there any other good reason to run it in 2WD?....EVER?

And thank you to all of you for your insights! Truly appreciated!
Cheers,
Bruce
 
D

dmanlyr

New member

Equipment
L3200, Hustler Super Z
May 30, 2012
330
1
0
Graham, WA
First, do you have the proper amount of counter weight on the three point, if not then that is the FIRST step.

Proper counter weight will unload the front axle and improve the braking.

As to not operating in 4wd, Kubota tractors use a different front axle design than your truck, you cannot compare the two. You truck probably transfers the power thru U joints or CV joints, which have a limited range before binding occurs, your Kubota uses bevel gears which could care less if straight ahead or at full steering lock.

For most usages 2wd does reduce the wear and tear on the 4wd components, they are definably made smaller than the rear main drive components, so I would only use 4wd off the pavement, and only when needed, such as loader operations, up and down hills, thru mud etc.

Only with use on your tractor, on your property and in your soil conditions will give you the experience to select the proper drive mode. You will figure out pretty quickly where and when you need to use 4wd to maintain forward or rearward momentum.

David
 
O

OffGridiot

New member

Equipment
BX25, Landpride Grapple, Farm King rear blade
Jul 18, 2014
15
3
3
Texada Island, B. C. Canada
dmanlyr said:
First, do you have the proper amount of counter weight on the three point, if not then that is the FIRST step.

Proper counter weight will unload the front axle and improve the braking.
David
Click to expand...
OK. You got me. Guilty as charged. I had no counter weight behind me at all. Because of the ditch cleaning work I was doing on my 2km ....sorry....1 1/2 MILE long driveway, the short length with no rear attachments was quite advantageous in some of the tighter spots.
Luckily, I have finished that part of the project and have moved on to reestablishing a proper crown with the rear blade. I shouldn't need to operate without either the rear blade or the backhoe in place for a very long time....and if I do, I'm pretty sure that the memory of those "Pucker Factor" moments :eek: will be lessons I'll not soon forget.

Bruce
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Top Bottom